Flatheadyoungin
Veteran Member
here's a great article on geotextiles....i think i'm sold......
Using Geotextile Fabric in Livestock Operations, AEX-304-97
Using Geotextile Fabric in Livestock Operations, AEX-304-97
Road costing advise or opinions!
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SamWalton
Platinum Member
I removed a tree the electric Company required removal. Also I dug out many stones, some being very large to allow for the drainage ditches to be installed. It was very cold so I didn't get much work done and I may not work tomorrow.
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akajun
Member
I just had 55 yards of wash gravel brought in on our Hunting camp road at $1400 . It took 2 25 yard trucks and they tailgate spread it. Granted we did it fairly thin, about 2 to 3 inches because the road is naturally hard and on a ridge but it covered 1000 feet. The road was an old dirt road and was fairly well compacted. Whe had a dozer come in and cut some drains that took about an hour at $75 an hour( he did other work elsewhere on the property). NO fabric was used in the road.
Cut the drains, then find a gravel hauler/trucking company with 22 to 30 yard trucks who will tailgate spread it. Even if you double the amount of gravel I used You still would come out at half the price you have been quoted.
Cut the drains, then find a gravel hauler/trucking company with 22 to 30 yard trucks who will tailgate spread it. Even if you double the amount of gravel I used You still would come out at half the price you have been quoted.
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SamWalton
Platinum Member
Are these 25 yard trucks the super long type dump truck? I have been considering comparing the trucking cost between the standard dump truck and this longer type. Maybe I could save a few bucks at least on the longer haul of the stone which isn't so local.
schmism
Super Member
i paid $300 for ~20 TON (full tandam load) of CA-7 "crusher run". Most common base material used for created "real" roads.
Dought you need a full foot of base. Depending on soil you should be able to get away with ~6" of base material. Generally speaking geotextal fabric will also reduce the amount of material needed, but its trade off is cost. (is it infact cheeper than just putting down the extra base?)
most common real road cross section from my neck of the woods (based on IL soil types) is 8" base with 3" asphalt.
Another option is ~4" of CA-6 (1-2" crushed limestone) then 2-3" of CA-7 (3/4" crushed) as a topper. Compacting between layers. The larger the stone the more weight bearing capacity it has.
Dought you need a full foot of base. Depending on soil you should be able to get away with ~6" of base material. Generally speaking geotextal fabric will also reduce the amount of material needed, but its trade off is cost. (is it infact cheeper than just putting down the extra base?)
most common real road cross section from my neck of the woods (based on IL soil types) is 8" base with 3" asphalt.
Another option is ~4" of CA-6 (1-2" crushed limestone) then 2-3" of CA-7 (3/4" crushed) as a topper. Compacting between layers. The larger the stone the more weight bearing capacity it has.
akajun
Member
Yes these are the long 18 wheeler dump trailers. Some of the dump trailers vary in capacity from 20 to almost 30 yds, but are limited by the weight they can carry, usually about 27 to 30 tons, depending on the weight of the rig and your states laws. The way most trucking/gravel haulers work in our area is you tell them what material you want and where you want it. They quote you a price, mine was $25 a ton and a 22 yard truck held 27 to 28 tons, and you tell them ok. They show up, and dump it in 5 minutes, spreading it with the tailgate, usually for free.
To get the best price, find someone that works in the forestry or oilfield and deals with these dirt haulers on a regualar basis. They will recomend someone that is reputable. IMHO, the first guy you mentioned is kind of high.
ALso I have never used shale, we dont have that in LA, but if you can get your hands on some wash gravel, That is the best material for a hard road IMHO. Once it locks in, It is solid.
To get the best price, find someone that works in the forestry or oilfield and deals with these dirt haulers on a regualar basis. They will recomend someone that is reputable. IMHO, the first guy you mentioned is kind of high.
ALso I have never used shale, we dont have that in LA, but if you can get your hands on some wash gravel, That is the best material for a hard road IMHO. Once it locks in, It is solid.
It all looks great, but does anyone know what kind of gradient restrictions there may be ?.
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SamWalton
Platinum Member
It has been a while since my last post and we have made some progress on our driveway. We attempted to hire some local contractors but things didn't work out until recently. We hired Dillard Construction to finish our driveway and clear the home site and prepare for the footings. He has a good reputation locally and was very reasonable in his fees. He's charging us $75 per hour for all dozer work with no delivery fees and $75 a load for shale, which we used 24 loads and $240 per load of stone tailgated. Although we are not done we have made some progress.
I attempted to drive to the home site during this last rain and ice storm and found the new drive way was very soggy and nearly got stuck while going up the hill. I hope this won't happen after it get driven on or compacted. I could use any opinions on this?
I attempted to drive to the home site during this last rain and ice storm and found the new drive way was very soggy and nearly got stuck while going up the hill. I hope this won't happen after it get driven on or compacted. I could use any opinions on this?
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SamWalton
Platinum Member
The clearing of the home site required the dozer to cut down deep to break the roots of the larger trees. I am sure we no longer have undisturbed soil to build our home on and because of the varying elevations I believe I will be required to install our footing on different elevations of virgin soil. The top of all footings must be on identical elevations which mean I will have varying depths on the various footing. My builder told me to remove the soil to get to the undisturbed area and it will be necessary to get the compaction tested to be 300 PPSF or better.
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mjncad
Super Member
Sam:
Since I didn't see any geotextile fabric (e.g. Mirafi) under the shale, I think a soggy driveway is going to be a recurring issue. The second set of pictures bear this out where the pretty driveway of the first set is already showing tracks and ruts.
The proper kind of geotextile fabric will allow water to permeate to the earth below; but help prevent the shale from becoming embedded in the soil.
I have the same problem with our current driveway, and short of scraping away all the road base the builder calls recycled asphalt and doing the driveway over, I will probably just resurface it with recycled concrete to save money since we eventually want to sell this house.
Since I didn't see any geotextile fabric (e.g. Mirafi) under the shale, I think a soggy driveway is going to be a recurring issue. The second set of pictures bear this out where the pretty driveway of the first set is already showing tracks and ruts.
The proper kind of geotextile fabric will allow water to permeate to the earth below; but help prevent the shale from becoming embedded in the soil.
I have the same problem with our current driveway, and short of scraping away all the road base the builder calls recycled asphalt and doing the driveway over, I will probably just resurface it with recycled concrete to save money since we eventually want to sell this house.
