Rods for welding cutting edge

[gauthier]

Yes,and yes and who knows,,but....in a socket weld discription,in asme b31.1,,sketch,,,it says/shows to leave a gap,,it requires it as a matter of fact,,[socket weld is a fillit weld],,now thats a socket weld,,not a butt weld,,but you would think same principle would apply,,,but in any case......who knows:laughing:

 

[rjmack]

Yes,and yes and who knows,,but....in a socket weld discription,in asme b31.1,,sketch,,,it says/shows to leave a gap,,it requires it as a matter of fact,,[socket weld is a fillit weld],,now thats a socket weld,,not a butt weld,,but you would think same principle would apply,,,but in any case......who knows

apples and oranges my friend. the gap in the socket is to allow for linear expansion, and no, we are not allowed to use 6010 on those... 7018 only.

 

[Inkomodius]

Im not really familiar with 31.1, However our procedure for a socket weld calls for gap between the fitting and the pipe because you are not welding on the end of the pipe. There is usually a 1/4 - 1/2 " of pipe stub inside the socket after the weld. If there was no gap and the pipe expanded inside the socket it would put undue stress on the weld. That gap is there to allow the stub to expand and contract freely.

On structural members that I have welded such as bridges and steel structures, and heavy equipment. The engineered drawings show 0 gap. As a matter of fact, the fit up prior to weld, call for a fit so tight as not to allow a visible amount light to pass between the two pieces. Leaving a gap on a structural component is like back gouging for a full pen weld, but not gouging all the way and leaving an air pocket that expands at a different rate then the surrounding area inside.

Pipe/pressure is a welding area all its own

 

[gauthier]

Been both places,,kinda hard to make a nice 1/16th inch gap on a 60ft flange on a web,,,so....but glad you say,if there wasn't a gap [on socket piping] might produce undo stress.

Whata mean you can't use 6010 for root on the b31.1 socket?,,,what kinda people you working for:laughing::laughing:just turn it up man..

 

[shade tree welder]

Cutting edges come in basically 2 flavors, weldable and bolt on.

Bolt on edges have plow bolt holes for obvious reasons. These are
typically high carbon plain steels like 1080 or 1095 and are impossible
to weld.

Weld on cutting edges typically do not have holes in them for bolts again
for obvious reasons.

Does yours have holes or not?

Assuming yours is weldable, I would suggest runing 6011 or 6013 for the
whole job, it is cheaper and will provide more strength than you need.

1/8" 6011 start at 90-95 amps.

1/8" 6013 or 7018 start at 105-115 amps.

Adjust to your comfort.

 

[gauthier]

Well,,we may have found the man here,,,weld on ones,,give us more detail,,,what,just fillit weld on the edge or what,,back edge is not hardened or none of it is hardened?whats that blade made of.

 

[shade tree welder]

Well,,we may have found the man here,,,weld on ones,,give us more detail,,,what,just fillit weld on the edge or what,,back edge is not hardened or none of it is hardened?whats that blade made of.

Put your dick back in your pants we do not need to
send another thread down that path.

 

[chopped]

Cutting edges come in basically 2 flavors, weldable and bolt on.

Bolt on edges have plow bolt holes for obvious reasons. These are
typically high carbon plain steels like 1080 or 1095 and are impossible
to weld
Goodness I weld the bolt on ones all the time.With no problems at all. For some of us its all we have for steel to use. I did one on the bucket and used 6011 rods that was ten years ago. I did expect it to snap but . it hasnt..

 

[shade tree welder]

Goodness I weld the bolt on ones all the time.With no problems at all. For some of us its all we have for steel to use. I did one on the bucket and used 6011 rods that was ten years ago. I did expect it to snap but . it hasnt..

If you get a high carbon one you will know it. Like trying to weld cast iron with 6011 rod but worse.

 

[tb525]

If it's a weld on cutting edge, it is probably AR-400 steel. Having holes in it does not mean it is strictly a bolt on edge, a lot of the weld ons have holes in them. That just depends on the manufacturers choice..
For welding it on, don't use 6011. Weld it entirely with 7018. Preheat it before starting to weld, but don't get carried away with the heat because you will just anneal the edge and bucket..
Stress relieve the welds as you go by peening them.. An air needle de-scaler works great for it, if you don't have one, just pound the hello out of them with a chipping hammer..
When you're finished welding and peening, heat it again with a torch to even out the temp across the entire length.. You want it to cool slowly and evenly..