roll bar question

[KB9UDE]

I agree that you should cut however many inches off the uprights that you need to clear the door opening. Then you can drill new holes and it is ridgid with the top in place at all times.

 

[moojamboo]

How many inches could I cut before I start reducing the overall safety of the bar?

Also, am I getting the majority of the strength of the roll bar even thought the uprights aren't connected? If I just leave the connecting member off then I can go in and out no problem.

Part of me sees the logic to cutting it off but I also don't want to cut up the original design for ease of use and eliminate the safety. I do have a fairly steep driveway and my property (where I hope to get some wood roads cut through this summer) is hilly.

 

[barbqranch]

Since there are 2 bolts on each side, I don't believe they have to be tight to provide the strength you need. I would either suggest using hitch pins, or, do like my TC29D is made, make what is essentially a hinge down lower that has on each upright one bolt with self locking nut so it isn't tight and forms the hinge point, and one hitch pin. It would involve welding plates with matching holes on the uprights. If you look in the New Holland parts section, under TC29D Sheet metal and grill and then look at Foldable roll bar, it will make more sense. I would take a picture, but it is too stormy outside, and I haven't figured out how to post pictures yet. With this system, I pull one pin on each side, then just lay it back. Put the pins back in the holes so I don't lose them.

 

[jinman]

Good morning Jim,

I'm 99% sure the pic below depicts OP's ROPS configuration. I'm thinking just a hitch pin in lieu of bolt should be adequate if removing horizontal bar suffices.

JC, I agree that four (4) pins will be sufficient. My folding ROPS on my tractor is held by a hitch pin inserted on each side. I'm wondering if the OP could not just pull the top off, turn the top bar and flanges upside down, and then attach it to the front of his arms with the pins while in the garage. When he gets out of the garage, he can flip it back right and install it onto the top of the ROPS posts as normal. See my attachment.

 

[moored4]

In your picture where the garage door is seen it does not look like it is as far up as it could be. Is the ROP not clearing the door or is the frame around the door what it will not clear? Maybe look into adjusting or doing something to the garage door. It would not bother me to cut off some of the Rop uprights as mentioned early, unless you are way over 6 feet tall and would hit the bar if leaned back while sitting in the tractor seat. David

 

[moojamboo]

Hi moored, when I drove the tractor in I wedged a board to prop the door as high as it could go, the door in the pic is with that board removed. My springs could maybe be adjusted, but the board will work for now. And I am five food eight on a good day.

 

[moojamboo]

Hi jinman, sadly the cross member is solid. So I can't just do a flip.

 

[moored4]

"And I am five foot eight on a good day."

Then I would cut the two uprights off and redrill some holes or buield a carport out frount that would be high enough to take the tractor.

 

[jinman]

Hi jinman, sadly the cross member is solid. So I can't just do a flip.

I don't mean as a permanent change, just to hang the ROPS top so that when you get it out of the barn you can easily reinstall it. Even folding ROPS take time to fold up and insert pins. On yours, you'd pull the pins, set the ROPS top in place and reinstall. See the modified illustration below. If you forget to reconfigure your ROPS, at least you will have some rigidity between the tops of the arms.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Do the upright members go into sockets [that I cant see, but may be hidden] between those flanges on the crossbar? If there is a full length socket then youre good with 1 bolt .. or pin, on each side. If not a socket you must use both holes and bolts -- not pins or else the strength will be severely compromised.
larry