Roll Up Steel Workshop Doors

   / Roll Up Steel Workshop Doors #31  
I have 3 roll-up doors in my shop, 2 12'x12's and 1 10'x12'. All are chain operated. I originally thought I'd go with electric powered but the $700/ea added cost helped me change my mind. Besides, the chain type is plenty easy enough.

There's no comparison between sliding or swing-out doors to roll-ups. The roll up takes much less space and doesn't block your overhead lighting when open. I've had no problems with wind, rain, bugs nor birds getting past my doors. However - I had them installed by an overhead door company, not self-installed. For something so expensive and so critical I prefer to have them installed correctly the first time.
 
   / Roll Up Steel Workshop Doors #32  
Door guy here

This is year 30 for me.

Coiling doors come in a few flavors

Trac rite
Janus

These are considered “sheet doors”
They are one continuous piece
Light gauge
Not typically available insulated
Self storage warehouses love them!!!
Some manufacturers do have the motor built into the drum.
They aren’t too bad as long as cycle count per hour is low.


10x10 sheet door takes 2 experienced guys about 45 mins to install once in the building.


Any other questions feel free to ask!
I have what I believe is a sheet door. Is there any way to adjust the tension to make it go up a bit easier. If I don't push it up the final foot and a half it wants to drop back down. I doesn't have the cams (?) on the end to put the bar in to adjust like the fancier ones. If you need a better picture of the door I can get you one when I get home. Thanks and sorry to hijack the thread.
 

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   / Roll Up Steel Workshop Doors #33  
I also have 3 10x12 chain driven roll-up doors that have been trouble free and easy to use for over four years now. The one thing I would recommend if you're in a windy area as I am is to purchase insulated doors. They don't rattle when the wind blows.
 
   / Roll Up Steel Workshop Doors #34  
I have what I believe is a sheet door. Is there any way to adjust the tension to make it go up a bit easier. If I don't push it up the final foot and a half it wants to drop back down. I doesn't have the cams (?) on the end to put the bar in to adjust like the fancier ones. If you need a better picture of the door I can get you one when I get home. Thanks and sorry to hijack the thread.
I’d need a picture of each end of the “drum” on the interior
 
   / Roll Up Steel Workshop Doors #35  
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1st two are left side. 2nd two are right side. Facing the door from the inside.
 
   / Roll Up Steel Workshop Doors #36  
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1st two are left side. 2nd two are right side. Facing the door from the inside.
The “saddles” appear the same on both sides?

On that style we would open the door all the way, (usually have to remove the stops) put a ratchet strap to hold the roll tight and roll the door “closed” direction one additional turn.
Release the ratchet strap, pull door back down in the tracks and reinstall the stops.
 
   / Roll Up Steel Workshop Doors #37  
Gotcha. Thanks!
 
   / Roll Up Steel Workshop Doors #38  
   / Roll Up Steel Workshop Doors #39  
My garage has aluminium roller shutter doors that make a good seal when closed. They are Gliderol brand(UK) and were installed by their engineer. They need about 15” headroom for the roll which, along with the motor and mechanism, are enclosed in a metal box. I’m very pleased with the result especially as they can be operated with the supplied remote.
I chose not to install the doors myself having had a bad experience when the whole assembly of a large steel roller shutter door collapsed in an industrial building due to poor installation. Luckily no one was underneath at the time but it was a near miss that I would not like to repeat!
 
   / Roll Up Steel Workshop Doors #40  
Installed them myself.
Off topic, but curiosity get the better of me - did you build the building around the shipping container? Or are they able to slip it into an opening that size - with "ease?' And, of course, would they be able to remove it as well?
 
 
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