roller bearing question - cups and cones

   / roller bearing question - cups and cones #11  
Cups and cones should be replaced at the same time. To get a cup or race out that you can not hit the back with a punch and hammer you can weld a bead around the inside of the race, let it cool and it should shrink enough to fall out or pull out with a seal pick.

+1 Do it all the time where I work.

Kim
 
   / roller bearing question - cups and cones #12  
Cups and cones should be replaced at the same time. To get a cup or race out that you can not hit the back with a punch and hammer you can weld a bead around the inside of the race, let it cool and it should shrink enough to fall out or pull out with a seal pick.

Do it right the first time, many hubs even if you have access welding is the preferred method to get the cups out, without damaging the hub, or axle housing.
Trying to take short cuts, is a very costly way to go to often.
 
   / roller bearing question - cups and cones #13  
Do it right the first time, many hubs even if you have access welding is the preferred method to get the cups out, without damaging the hub, or axle housing.
Trying to take short cuts, is a very costly way to go to often.

There is a point where the level of usage and cost of 'doing it right' dictate that "good enough" can be, at times, good enough. New bearing cones and serviceable original cups in vintage planter wheels that will probably see limited use will likely last indefinitely. It would be a shame if the OP cracked a hard-to-find hub while in the process of "doing it right".
 
   / roller bearing question - cups and cones #14  
If welding on the hub is going to break it then it is junk. I have done this on many aluminum hubs for class eights and found it causes less stress to the hub than pounding it out does. On a lot of cars and 1/2 ton pick-ups that is the only way you are going to get the bearing out. You only need a small bead with 3/32 to pull and cup loose. We are not talking big heat, I have done this on many sleeves and never had a problem.
 
   / roller bearing question - cups and cones #16  
If welding on the hub is going to break it then it is junk. I have done this on many aluminum hubs for class eights and found it causes less stress to the hub than pounding it out does. On a lot of cars and 1/2 ton pick-ups that is the only way you are going to get the bearing out. You only need a small bead with 3/32 to pull and cup loose. We are not talking big heat, I have done this on many sleeves and never had a problem.

The point that is being missed here is that we are not talking about a Class 8 truck or F1 race car. It is always easy to spend somebody else's money and/or extrapolate what would be sound advise in many instances to a situation where identical procedures are simply overkill. The darn bearings would probably survive whatever use the planter will EVER get by simply cleaning, repacking, and properly adjusting what is there, along with new seals. New cones are a great idea, cups may or may not be necessary. If they are cheap, it makes sense. If they are oddball and expensive, maybe the old ones will outlast the machine.
 
   / roller bearing question - cups and cones #17  
if the cups are good reuse them.if the bearings are good use them.repack them and replace the seals .then you should be good to go.they could out last the new made in china bearings they sell now.
 
   / roller bearing question - cups and cones #18  
If you don't have a press to install the race, then find a socket that is small enough to slide freely into the empty hub, but large enough to come close to the outer edge of the race. Then use a brass hammer to tap the race in using the socket. Be sure to watch carefully to insure that it is going in straight.

I use the freezer method also, but worry about condensation getting trapped between the hub and race.
 
   / roller bearing question - cups and cones #19  
There is a point where the level of usage and cost of 'doing it right' dictate that "good enough" can be, at times, good enough. New bearing cones and serviceable original cups in vintage planter wheels that will probably see limited use will likely last indefinitely. It would be a shame if the OP cracked a hard-to-find hub while in the process of "doing it right".
Yaa-y. :thumbsup:
 

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