Rope Chain Saw

   / Rope Chain Saw
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Without knowing your exact needs, I would suggest looking at something like this:

Tree Pruner

or this:

1.5 HP Electric Pole Saw

I have a pole saw that I purchased at HF several years back. It extends to 12ft. I seldom use it but it has worked without fail each time that I have. They make gas powered ones but $$$ more than electric.

Those look good, thank you.
 
   / Rope Chain Saw
  • Thread Starter
#12  
I had to laugh out loud reading the comments on the Northern Tool site you linked to. One commenter said he cut off 24" limb, Hmmm, yeah, right.

Maybe he meant 24" long.
 
   / Rope Chain Saw #14  
I see TSC is selling two-cycle, 8" Poulan pole saws for $150 this Friday.
 
   / Rope Chain Saw #16  
I have one and use it a fair bit. The biggest ive cut is maybe 12", but it took a while. Its tough on the hands unless you make some kind of handle. You also want to cut off to the side to undercut the branch a bit or it snaps offf a big chunk n the bottom of the cut. One word to the wise - be very careful where you stand. The easiest cutting position is right under what you're cutting so it can be dangerous. Also invest in some kind of weight or line for throwing and you'll save a lot of frustration.
 
   / Rope Chain Saw #17  

Ordered one of these from Amazon and delivery is tomorrow. For $40 bucks thought I would give it a try. Have a few 4-6" diameter White Oak limbs hanging over the lane. They are 20+ feet high at their base and ends droop down low enough to interfere with the UPS truck. Probably just wishful thinking that a rope saw will work. :confused3:
 
   / Rope Chain Saw #19  
It may well work, but I guarantee that you will have stronger arms when you are done. :laughing:

Exactly...it will work, but HE will work harder still. I've done it, but I suggest having a friend help, perhaps a young friend.
 
   / Rope Chain Saw #20  
I wouldn't recommend them except for a last resort. The problem with cutting a branch up high from the ground is that you cannot see where you are cutting. that cut must be made at the branch collar, without injuring the collar.
injure the collar or leave to much of a stub and you reduce the tree's ability to compartmentilize the wound.
plus, how are you going to make your proper 3-cut pruming cut? cut a large branch with one cut straight down and you will rip through the branch collar and down the trunk. this type of wound is difficult for a tree to compartmentilize and sure to degrade future timber value.
It's even trickier if you are removing a co-dom stem since the pruning cut needs to be made in relation to the branch bark ridge.

remember if you remove the branch from a ladder, tie the top of the ladder off before you make your cut, make the first cut as far as you safely can out the branch and have a second person pull the branch away from your ladder with a rope.
 
 
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