Rotary Cutter Blade Nut

[RoyJackson]

Does anyone know for sure if it is right hand thread?
I would go to a cheap tool place and get the tools from them if you are not going to do a lot of this, or talk to you neighbors, they may have what you need.
Just a thought!

I would hope the manual would specify if it's a LH thread!

 

[Degolyerent]

It is a right hand thread, I saw some air guns that had 1200 lb capacity in reverse and a working rate of 900 in forward they were around 200.00 that was a 1/2 gun that needs 4cfm I saw others that would do the job also that was 4cfm-6cfm
I would use a good 3/4 socket with a reducer to 1/2
If you own a bush hog you are going to have to sharpen or replace the blades, so save all the problems and struggle and get geared up to do it the easy way, plus when you put the blades back on you can get 650 lbs of torque +- if you don't have a air compressor with enough capacity, maybe your wife will buy you one for your birthday or Christmas

 

[Degolyerent]

I told you a incorrect torque spec. It is 450 ft. lbs. When you put it back together.

 

[Johnp33]

I am a licenced HD mechanic and see equipment all the time that is damaged from the use of air tools.
I do not allow anyone to put on the rims on my vehicles, I do it by hand, on all rims that have a tapered nut. Getting stuff apart is great with an impact, putting it back together, on anything that needs to sit in a slot, I do it by hand. I also torque every nut and bolt, and wheels.
I am a firm believer in Neversize to get it tight.

 

[RoyJackson]

I am a licenced HD mechanic and see equipment all the time that is damaged from the use of air tools.
I do not allow anyone to put on the rims on my vehicles, I do it by hand, on all rims that have a tapered nut. Getting stuff apart is great with an impact, putting it back together, on anything that needs to sit in a slot, I do it by hand. I also torque every nut and bolt, and wheels.
I am a firm believer in Neversize to get it tight.

Agree with your post...except the Neversize (did you mean "Neverseize", or "Anti-Seize" as I've always seen it).
That's used to ensure the threads don't seize together (rust or heat weld), not to tighten them...so you can get the nut off again.

 

[Johnp33]

I am a mechanic, failed English, Never-seize is a fantastic lubricant. I use a mixture of Gear oil, ATF and Never-seize in a thin paste all the time it gives you an increase of clamping load by about 10 to 20% with the same torque.
I have a plastic container with different brushes in it. "CAT" uses a similar thicker lube on their head bolts. It stops corrosion, and galling of threads. If you do a lot of work on equipment, all it needs to do is stop one bolt from seizing up before it is tight, and the time it takes to get it out and repair the threads or find a new bolt, and it pays for itself.

 

[RoyJackson]

I am a mechanic, failed English, Never-seize is a fantastic lubricant. I use a mixture of Gear oil, ATF and Never-seize in a thin paste all the time it gives you an increase of clamping load by about 10 to 20% with the same torque.
I have a plastic container with different brushes in it. "CAT" uses a similar thicker lube on their head bolts. It stops corrosion, and galling of threads. If you do a lot of work on equipment, all it needs to do is stop one bolt from seizing up before it is tight, and the time it takes to get it out and repair the threads or find a new bolt, and it pays for itself.

Yeah, I use it, but not a mixture.
I'm not sure about that 10-20% increase in clamping force though. I've always thought (from my Navy days) that lubricating the threads required a percentage more torque to attain the required clamping on the threads.
I've seen specs that required dry torque on some assemblies.

Could be wrong though...

 

[Ford tractor]

Yeah, I use it, but not a mixture.
I'm not sure about that 10-20% increase in clamping force though. I've always thought (from my Navy days) that lubricating the threads required a percentage more torque to attain the required clamping on the threads.
I've seen specs that required dry torque on some assemblies.

Could be wrong though...

You may be (mistaken on this point...)

When you torque a bolt or nut, some of the torque is used to overcome rotational friction. A lube on the threads and nut face allows a higher percentage of the applied torque to be converted to clamping force. Some specs are for dry torque as the forces are calculated with that clamping loss accounted for. It's always best to follow the specs!

I try to use either neverseize or locktite on every fastener.

 

[Snaker]

It's time to change the blades on my Land Pride RCR1548. The manual says the nut is a "1 1/8 - 12". By my measurement, 1 1/8 refers to the diameter of the bolt. What size wrench do I need for the nut?

The nut is all gunked up, and it's about 2" down in a hole, so when I try to put calipers on it, I get all kinds of different numbers, from 1-1/2" to 1-5/8". I called the dealer; he said he didn't know, nobody had ever asked before. A source that looks reliable says the nut ought to be 1-11/16", or maybe 1-13/16" if it's heavy.

Sears will sell me a 1-11/16 socket, but not a 1-13/16 socket. The price is high enough I'd rather not buy two, anyway. Any advice?

Looks like you've gotten your answer on the socket size. Here's a little handy tip for measuring in odd places-Red neck calipers.
I like to keep a couple pieces of stripped solid copper electrical wire laying around, 12-14 ga. gives good flexibility. Make a long u-shape with the cross space a little wider than what your measuring. Squeeze the tips togather so that they just slip over the nut flats or whatever your measuring with out deforming. Carefully remove and measure between tips. You should be able to get within 1/16" if careful.
You should see me go with a pair of framing squares and a couple of vise-grips.

 

[Johnp33]

I have a 1 13/16 socket, a 1 3/4 and a 1 11/16.
If you go to a cheap tool store even a dollar store some have dividers for cheap, but I do like the idea of the copper wire.
A pair of dividers once you have them are great for assembly to be sure things are square.