You already have "lifting" blades.
To be sure we are on the same page,the blades in post #16 are what's found on most cutters and have years of life left and you would only be wearing them out by sharpening. Are the blades in post #1 and post #16 one and the same (they look like totaly different type blades)? I totally agree that the rocks you describe shouldn't do much if any damage. At any rate,sharpening blades in post #1 only reduce's blade life without improving preformance "IF" they continue being used in same field. I wouldn't worry about LIFT or no LIFT,that's only relivent with lawn mowers. Claims of lift for pasture cutters is sales pitch hype. For the record,the ability to cut trees and brush increase's with mower quility and price. Bush Hog and Service mowers will cut anything the tractor can bend over and do as well in weeds and grass as anything you can buy at tractor supply or elsewhere. Yes,Bush Hog is a brand name so stop calling all cutters Bush Hogs.
To be sure we are on the same page,the blades in post #16 are what's found on most cutters and have years of life left and you would only be wearing them out by sharpening. Are the blades in post #1 and post #16 one and the same (they look like totaly different type blades)? I totally agree that the rocks you describe shouldn't do much if any damage. At any rate,sharpening blades in post #1 only reduce's blade life without improving preformance "IF" they continue being used in same field. I wouldn't worry about LIFT or no LIFT,that's only relivent with lawn mowers. Claims of lift for pasture cutters is sales pitch hype. For the record,the ability to cut trees and brush increase's with mower quility and price. Bush Hog and Service mowers will cut anything the tractor can bend over and do as well in weeds and grass as anything you can buy at tractor supply or elsewhere. Yes,Bush Hog is a brand name so stop calling all cutters Bush Hogs.
I think it's universally agreed the blades will not benifit from sharping but you say they don't do as well as they did earlier. May I suggest checking deck height to see if that might be some of the problem? Adjust deck so that blades are closer to ground when at front of deck. When blades are level or higher in front,weeds are clipped a secound time as they pass rear of deck. That secound clip leave's a ragged top on stem ,slow's blade and sap's horsepower. It's the same as cutting weeds with a machete. If you swing and cut weed mid-way between top and ground then swing a secound time attempting to cut stem 4" lower,the cut isn't as clean (if it cut's at all).