Rotella T(6) 5W40 in your tractors.

[SunnyJim]

Subject of the thread is a synthetic. :confused2:
larry

My point being use a product you are happy with.

Rotella, Delvac, Schaeffers all make quality synthetic and non-synthetic products at reasonable prices allong with quite a few others. Use the 1 you like. As long as it meets a reasonable miminum spec you will be fine.

If you want the best synthetic or conventional get out the technical data, UOA's, ZDDP and Calcuim levels and have at it. :thumbsup:

 

[Jay4200]

Why wouldn't you use 5w40 year round? It's 5w on startup and 40 weight when hot. In the old days, they used 20w in winter and 30w in summer. This is lots better.

Why is that better? Since 90% of engine wear is done in the first few seconds of startup, I figure I'd rather have higher viscosity residue in the motor when I turn the key. I use 15W-40 dino oil in everything. Synthetics last longer, but I think that oil should be changed long before the increased lifespan comes into effect - especially in a diesel. 50 hours and my oil is black as soot - I change it to get the debris out. Sure, a synthetic might theoretically go 200 hours, but I'm not leaving it in there that long.

JayC

 

[daman1]

Why is that better? Since 90% of engine wear is done in the first few seconds of startup,I'd rather have higher viscosity residue in the motor when I turn the key.Synthetics last longer, but I think that oil should be changed long before the increased lifespan comes into effect - especially in a diesel. 50 hours and my oil is black as soot - I change it to get the debris out.

Your thinking is wrong and i'll tell you why, as you said "engine wear is done in the first few seconds of startup" and you are 110% correct on that but what you fail to see or understand is a lighter viscosity oil say a "5w,0w" etc, will flow and get to them critical wear spots faster then your 15w40 thicker visc base oil will thats why in most cases a manufacture these days recommend a lighter oil for winter use. Summer warmer temps really isn't too much of a issue but when it gets cool to cold out a thinner multi is the way to go, start up's will be 100% better also, Not saying a 15w40 is bad, far from it it works very well just pointing out that it's not a one oil fits all type of thing for every application.

say you put 15w40 in a pull start 6500w generator no problem in the summer but try starting that unit in the cold winter,good luck.

in other words viscosity is the oil's resistance to flow or motion. Viscosity varies under different temperatures and is important for maintaining a lubricant film between moving parts. Viscosity plays a role in an engine's cold-cranking ability also, the movement of gears, load capacities all have a part in it.

and changing your oil at 50hrs is crazy that oil upon analysis would show you it's far from being depleted,i could show you multiple UOA's showing 200,250,300hrs and the oil is still fit for use,TBN,wear metals,insolubles all with in universal averages why? because usually a HDEO will have more detergent(dispersing/cleaning agent),anti wear adds(for increased wear protection) and also have the ability in holding formed sludge,soot,dirt particles in suspension and thus allowing your filter to clean more efficiently.

but the end result is you,,you decide what's best for your equipment and go with it :thumbsup:

 

[chuck172]

"thinking is wrong and i'll tell you why, as you said "engine wear is done in the first few seconds of startup" and you are 110% correct on that but what you fail to see or understand is a lighter viscosity oil say a "5w,0w" etc, will flow and get to them critical wear spots faster then your 15w40 thicker visc base oil will thats why in most cases a manufacture these days recommend a lighter oil for winter use. Summer warmer temps really isn't too much of a issue but when it gets cool to cold out a thinner multi is the way to go, start up's will be 100% better also, Not saying a 15w40 is bad, far from it it works very well just pointing out that it's not a one oil fits all type of thing for every application"

Not sure if I agree with the fact that lighter oil is better oil. Talking about the winter (w) number
If that's the case, why do some manufacturers like Kioti recommend on 10w30, or 10w40. Seems to me they don't want their oil to thin out less that 10w.

 

[WilliamBos]

Hey,

Curious if you guys (and Gals) are riuning Rotella t6 5W40 in your diesel tractors? When did you switch out, and are you running it year round?

Thanks,

df.

Switched after the 50 hour service, run it year round.

 

[Copperhead]

Why wouldn't you use 5w40 year round? It's 5w on startup and 40 weight when hot.
Ralph

No it isn't. A 0w40, 5w40, 10w40, 15w40 are all 40 weight oils. The number in front of the "w" has nothing to do with weight. It is the winter flow rating. hence the "w" stands for winter not weight. The API website describes this for anyone who wants to read it.

 

[dgeesaman]

"thinking is wrong and i'll tell you why, as you said "engine wear is done in the first few seconds of startup" and you are 110% correct on that but what you fail to see or understand is a lighter viscosity oil say a "5w,0w" etc, will flow and get to them critical wear spots faster then your 15w40 thicker visc base oil will thats why in most cases a manufacture these days recommend a lighter oil for winter use. Summer warmer temps really isn't too much of a issue but when it gets cool to cold out a thinner multi is the way to go, start up's will be 100% better also, Not saying a 15w40 is bad, far from it it works very well just pointing out that it's not a one oil fits all type of thing for every application"

Not sure if I agree with the fact that lighter oil is better oil. Talking about the winter (w) number
If that's the case, why do some manufacturers like Kioti recommend on 10w30, or 10w40. Seems to me they don't want their oil to thin out less that 10w.

I'm also running T6 5w-40. I run it in my F-250 6.4L also.

The oddity about a low vis oil and startup wear is that while the lighter cold oil will pump more quickly to the parts, it will drain off faster too. Many people have studied the tribology of machine startups and it's just too complicated to generalize what solves the problem best.

 

[Copperhead]

regarding the colder weight thing, I don't use this stuff, but it is a prime example of how the number in front of the "w" has nothing to do with oil weight. Amsoil sells a straight 30w that also qualifies as a 10w30 because it has the flow characteristics that qualify it for the 10w30 cold weather rating. It is not a 10w then becomes a 30w, it is a straight 30w with no viscosity improvers or anything else that changes viscosity. This shows that this whole idea that an oil may be a 5w when cold then becomes a 40w when hot, or 10w when cold then a 30w when hot, is misinformation about what the oil numbers actually mean.

As to the OP point, if you feel motivated to use T6 5w40, then use it year round with confidence. I don't use that brand so I have no dog in that hunt, but I do use a 5w40 year round in several applications with nary a problem. I have used that grade from -30F to 120F and never had any oil related problem.

 

[DK35vince]

I've been running Rotella T-6 5w-40 in my tractor, year round since its first oil change over 13 years ago.
I also run it in my zero turn, push mower, generator, ATV, pressure washer, Etc, Etc.

 

[FTG-05]

I've been running Rotella T-6 5w-40 in my tractor, year round since its first oil change over 13 years ago.
I also run it in my zero turn, push mower, generator, ATV, pressure washer, Etc, Etc.

I've been using it in everything, gas and diesel, since I got my first diesel back in '08.

I could be talked into using Amsoil - since I use one of their bypass filters in my truck - if they could a) lower the price and b) sell it at Walmart and every other place on the planet that sells motor oil.