Rotted barn posts

[dvan1966]

I have an older metal outbuilding. The 6"X6" posts were set in concrete and I'm sure most are rotting. The one by my entrance door has rotted completely thru and shifted about 1+ inch. The inside of the barn is all concrete with part of it finished and the post are covered up. I dug the one by the entrance out down to the concrete and cut off what was left of the post. My plan is to pour concrete over the existing concrete, set a new 6x6 a few feet long, and butt the old and new together and sandwich with 2x6's with carriage bolts. What should I backfill the hole around the new post with? Stone? Is this a correct way to do this?
Also, I need to remove the horizontal boards at ground level and replace. The problem is I need to remove the metal siding? I have removed a couple rows of nails, which are a pain, but cannot get enough flex in the siding to pull it out far enough. I will remove another row of nails. Is there a easier way to do this?
One last thing, the plant I worked at closed down after I have worked there 20 years due to outsourcing so money is tight, I'm doing all the work myself.
Thanks for any help and suggestions.

 

[Moxie 15]

I would expect that you will have to remove most if not all of the nails. You do not want to bow or bend the siding as you will never get it back to the original shape and position. I know doing it by yourself is a pain. That's how everything gets done around here (of course wifey helps when she can). If you can, notch the upright posts (beams) this is what I mean Simple Half Lap Joint - Timber Frame HQ.

 

[Have tractor did travel]

dvan Outsourcing and being laid off is a bummer. There is a date 1966 on your photo's, which I guess is birth year. It can be tough finding new work at that computed age. Good luck to you as you re-arrange your life.
Is the reason the posts rotted is because there was a joint between the slab and the concrete surrounding the posts ? And then water got between them and into the posts ?
I have much the same problem as do you, though with no slab. I'll be pulling the rotted posts out, pouring concrete as a footer, extending it above ground level using Sonoco tubes. Then the remaining portion of the posts will rest on the footer.

 

[Hay Dude]

Did same project for a customer to save their barn. You are correct on the posts. I simply dug a sister footing, poured concrete and set sister posts. I used (3) 5/8” galv carriage bolts to sister them together up to about 5’ above ground and 3’ below ground. Has held fine for years. Did about 40 posts that way. You need the posts in the ground for building stability.
As far as the siding goes: What if you cut siding horizontally above rotted lower course of boards and set aside. Replace lower boards. Re-install lower metal siding you removed by tucking it under barn siding 1-2”. That way it wont leak. The bottom of the metal will be 1-2” shorter, but it might look ok.

 

[dvan1966]

What if you cut siding horizontally above rotted lower course of boards and set aside. Replace lower boards. Re-install lower metal siding you removed by tucking it under barn siding 1-2”. That way it wont leak. The bottom of the metal will be 1-2” shorter, but it might look ok.

That would be the easiest, just need to figure out how to cut the siding.

 

[robbyr]

That would be the easiest, just need to figure out how to cut the siding.

Maybe a skilsaw with a cutting wheel in it? I have a Ryobi battery powered grinder I keep a cutting wheel on. Pretty handy but will burn through battery fairly quickly if ya have to do a lot.

 

[2manyrocks]

That would be the easiest, just need to figure out how to cut the siding.

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWASHRIR-Impact-Shears-Attachment/dp/B01BSAWORC

More accurate, no metal or abrasive particles to breathe or get in your eyes, quieter, faster, more controllable.

You won't go back once you try these on sheet metal.

And...the shears don't throw hot particles that burn through the paint on your sheet metal siding that can rust later.

 

[dvan1966]

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWASHRIR-Impact-Shears-Attachment/dp/B01BSAWORC

More accurate, no metal or abrasive particles to breathe or get in your eyes, quieter, faster, more controllable.

You won't go back once you try these on sheet metal.

And...the shears don't throw hot particles that burn through the paint on your sheet metal siding that can rust later.

How will this work going across the ridges in the siding?
I was thinking of using my angle grinder with a 4" cutting wheel and cutting it that way.

 

[2manyrocks]

The ridges are harder to cut accurately, but it will zip through them, too.

If there was a way to remove the siding without too much work, I'd rather do that than to cut it off and reinstall the bottom section. I'd think you'd want a block or two to pry against so you don't puncture your siding, and then either use a good pry bar or perhaps carpenter's pliars if you need more control and your nails are coming out easily. https://www.amazon.com/Gunpla-Carpe...9GKJY2Z/ref=pd_lpo_3?pd_rd_i=B079GKJY2Z&psc=1

Leverage is also your friend when pulling nails if they aren't coming out easily. https://www.amazon.com/Estwing-Gooseneck-Wrecking-Bar-PRO/dp/B00DT0OY0A/ref=sr_1_4?crid=4OSIR5TZXJPE&keywords=wrecking+bar+42+inch&qid=1653422680&sprefix=wrecking+bar,aps,104&sr=8-4

If your building is framed with oak, nail pulling could be a major chore and maybe not a good plan.

 

[fidowanttobe]

We did the same thing. 4 1/2 grinder with a Lenox metal cutting wheel, cut the siding, sistered the posts and angle iron bolted them to the slab, bought pole barn metal wainscot trim and tucked it up under the tin and reinstalled the tin I cut off. He had budget issues also but would have dressed it up if we would have changed the color of the re-installed trim. Turned out very well.