Rotted barn posts

[dvan1966]

I have an older metal outbuilding. The 6"X6" posts were set in concrete and I'm sure most are rotting. The one by my entrance door has rotted completely thru and shifted about 1+ inch. The inside of the barn is all concrete with part of it finished and the post are covered up. I dug the one by the entrance out down to the concrete and cut off what was left of the post. My plan is to pour concrete over the existing concrete, set a new 6x6 a few feet long, and butt the old and new together and sandwich with 2x6's with carriage bolts. What should I backfill the hole around the new post with? Stone? Is this a correct way to do this?
Also, I need to remove the horizontal boards at ground level and replace. The problem is I need to remove the metal siding? I have removed a couple rows of nails, which are a pain, but cannot get enough flex in the siding to pull it out far enough. I will remove another row of nails. Is there a easier way to do this?
One last thing, the plant I worked at closed down after I have worked there 20 years due to outsourcing so money is tight, I'm doing all the work myself.
Thanks for any help and suggestions.

 

[Moxie 15]

I would expect that you will have to remove most if not all of the nails. You do not want to bow or bend the siding as you will never get it back to the original shape and position. I know doing it by yourself is a pain. That's how everything gets done around here (of course wifey helps when she can). If you can, notch the upright posts (beams) this is what I mean Simple Half Lap Joint - Timber Frame HQ.

 

[Have tractor did travel]

dvan Outsourcing and being laid off is a bummer. There is a date 1966 on your photo's, which I guess is birth year. It can be tough finding new work at that computed age. Good luck to you as you re-arrange your life.
Is the reason the posts rotted is because there was a joint between the slab and the concrete surrounding the posts ? And then water got between them and into the posts ?
I have much the same problem as do you, though with no slab. I'll be pulling the rotted posts out, pouring concrete as a footer, extending it above ground level using Sonoco tubes. Then the remaining portion of the posts will rest on the footer.

 

[Hay Dude]

Did same project for a customer to save their barn. You are correct on the posts. I simply dug a sister footing, poured concrete and set sister posts. I used (3) 5/8” galv carriage bolts to sister them together up to about 5’ above ground and 3’ below ground. Has held fine for years. Did about 40 posts that way. You need the posts in the ground for building stability.
As far as the siding goes: What if you cut siding horizontally above rotted lower course of boards and set aside. Replace lower boards. Re-install lower metal siding you removed by tucking it under barn siding 1-2”. That way it wont leak. The bottom of the metal will be 1-2” shorter, but it might look ok.

 

[dvan1966]

What if you cut siding horizontally above rotted lower course of boards and set aside. Replace lower boards. Re-install lower metal siding you removed by tucking it under barn siding 1-2”. That way it wont leak. The bottom of the metal will be 1-2” shorter, but it might look ok.

That would be the easiest, just need to figure out how to cut the siding.

 

[robbyr]

That would be the easiest, just need to figure out how to cut the siding.

Maybe a skilsaw with a cutting wheel in it? I have a Ryobi battery powered grinder I keep a cutting wheel on. Pretty handy but will burn through battery fairly quickly if ya have to do a lot.

 

[2manyrocks]

That would be the easiest, just need to figure out how to cut the siding.

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWASHRIR-Impact-Shears-Attachment/dp/B01BSAWORC

More accurate, no metal or abrasive particles to breathe or get in your eyes, quieter, faster, more controllable.

You won't go back once you try these on sheet metal.

And...the shears don't throw hot particles that burn through the paint on your sheet metal siding that can rust later.

 

[dvan1966]

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWASHRIR-Impact-Shears-Attachment/dp/B01BSAWORC

More accurate, no metal or abrasive particles to breathe or get in your eyes, quieter, faster, more controllable.

You won't go back once you try these on sheet metal.

And...the shears don't throw hot particles that burn through the paint on your sheet metal siding that can rust later.

How will this work going across the ridges in the siding?
I was thinking of using my angle grinder with a 4" cutting wheel and cutting it that way.

 

[2manyrocks]

The ridges are harder to cut accurately, but it will zip through them, too.

If there was a way to remove the siding without too much work, I'd rather do that than to cut it off and reinstall the bottom section. I'd think you'd want a block or two to pry against so you don't puncture your siding, and then either use a good pry bar or perhaps carpenter's pliars if you need more control and your nails are coming out easily. https://www.amazon.com/Gunpla-Carpe...9GKJY2Z/ref=pd_lpo_3?pd_rd_i=B079GKJY2Z&psc=1

Leverage is also your friend when pulling nails if they aren't coming out easily. https://www.amazon.com/Estwing-Gooseneck-Wrecking-Bar-PRO/dp/B00DT0OY0A/ref=sr_1_4?crid=4OSIR5TZXJPE&keywords=wrecking+bar+42+inch&qid=1653422680&sprefix=wrecking+bar,aps,104&sr=8-4

If your building is framed with oak, nail pulling could be a major chore and maybe not a good plan.

 

[fidowanttobe]

We did the same thing. 4 1/2 grinder with a Lenox metal cutting wheel, cut the siding, sistered the posts and angle iron bolted them to the slab, bought pole barn metal wainscot trim and tucked it up under the tin and reinstalled the tin I cut off. He had budget issues also but would have dressed it up if we would have changed the color of the re-installed trim. Turned out very well.

 

[dvan1966]

The ridges are harder to cut accurately, but it will zip through them, too.

If there was a way to remove the siding without too much work, I'd rather do that than to cut it off and reinstall the bottom section. I'd think you'd want a block or two to pry against so you don't puncture your siding, and then either use a good pry bar or perhaps carpenter's pliars if you need more control and your nails are coming out easily. https://www.amazon.com/Gunpla-Carpe...9GKJY2Z/ref=pd_lpo_3?pd_rd_i=B079GKJY2Z&psc=1

Leverage is also your friend when pulling nails if they aren't coming out easily. https://www.amazon.com/Estwing-Gooseneck-Wrecking-Bar-PRO/dp/B00DT0OY0A/ref=sr_1_4?crid=4OSIR5TZXJPE&keywords=wrecking+bar+42+inch&qid=1653422680&sprefix=wrecking+bar,aps,104&sr=8-4

If your building is framed with oak, nail pulling could be a major chore and maybe not a good plan.

It is a pain getting the nails pulled. I'm marking up the siding just trying to get the claw under the nails. I was planning on just fixing the 1 post. Then when I went to remove the horizontal boards the next post is rotted, not as bad though. So I am assuming this is going to be a ongoing project so pulling all nails isn't going to work.

 

[ponytug]

Sometimes changing your tool can help. I have a couple of different styles and brands of nail pullers, and often find that one works like a champ when the others are flailing. I have metal roofs and some were installed with spiral nails which have loosened enough to leak, but are still firmly embedded in the wood. Lift and turn is my trick for those, but sometimes I have had to put a vice grip on the remains of the nail to get enough grip to pry it out.

Good luck!

All the best,

Peter

 

[2manyrocks]

You're going to scratch up the paint on the siding if you simply put the claw against the metal siding. It's better to use a block of wood under the pry tool to distribute the force and save the paint finish. If there isn't space for a block of wood, I will sometimes use the flat side of a painter's tool to get the nail head started before switching to a block of wood.

Some spiral shank nails driven into some species of wood aren't going to let go willingly. The head will snap off before the shank pulls out.

If pulling the nails isn't a good option and there's no other access, then you're back to cutting the siding if this is the only way to get at the board that needs to be replaced.

 

[Hay Dude]

Just use a mini grinder with a thin wheel.
Watch the sharp edges
Get some pain on the lower edge of the metal to slow the rust.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

I always use a large set of end nippers to cut nail heads off. I have cut all the nail heads on a 600' chicken house to save the roof tin. Then you can use the cutters to remove the rest of the nail after tin is off. Number your sheets and use the same holes again.

 

[tallyho8]

I nailed sheet metal on once years ago instead of using screws and I have lived long enough to regret it. Don't ever think the sheet metal will outlast you.

 

[oosik]

My 80 acres was part of an original homestead. Dating back to 1890. My father purchased this property in 1939. I can remember, as a kid, the old barn and other outbuildings. They are just piles of scrap - out in the weeds - now.

Anyhow - I have a four stall carport. It has some 15 - 4x4 treated posts. Built in 1982 when we moved down here from Alaska. This structure has withstood the test of time.

However - one of the posts has been replaced two times. It will rot out. Finally I dug down about five and a half feet - put a foot and a half of pea gravel on the bottom and then a new post. It show no signs of rotting now after being there eleven years. My guess - had something to do with water and lack of adequate drainage at that spot.

 

[rodneyn]

My 80 acres was part of an original homestead. Dating back to 1890. My father purchased this property in 1939. I can remember, as a kid, the old barn and other outbuildings. They are just piles of scrap - out in the weeds - now.

Anyhow - I have a four stall carport. It has some 15 - 4x4 treated posts. Built in 1982 when we moved down here from Alaska. This structure has withstood the test of time.

However - one of the posts has been replaced two times. It will rot out. Finally I dug down about five and a half feet - put a foot and a half of pea gravel on the bottom and then a new post. It show no signs of rotting now after being there eleven years. My guess - had something to do with water and lack of adequate drainage at that spot.

Might also suggest permacolumns out of craigville Indiana they are 6 foot concrete reinforced rebar columns with pocket for the pole barn beam. They mimick the pole barn beam length and width. I replaced all of mine on 30 x 50 barn near wetland area. No rot from concrete guaranteed to last 75 years in the ground. Easy to install with a post hole digger or backhoe. They also supply concrete cookie that rest in bottom of your hole it can sit on. They sell these columns in any length or dimensional sizes. Very pleased with the product.

 

[jyoutz]

Might also suggest permacolumns out of craigville Indiana they are 6 foot concrete reinforced rebar columns with pocket for the pole barn beam. They mimick the pole barn beam length and width. I replaced all of mine on 30 x 50 barn near wetland area. No rot from concrete guaranteed to last 75 years in the ground. Easy to install with a post hole digger or backhoe. They also supply concrete cookie that rest in bottom of your hole it can sit on. They sell these columns in any length or dimensional sizes. Very pleased with the product.

 

[dvan1966]

I dug the old post out that was incased in concrete. There is a round concrete "cookie" at the bottom of the hole. Can I just set the new post on top of that cookie and backfill with crushed stone or should I pour concrete around it also?
I am on a budget since I have been recently unemployed. Someone has already given me 2 6x6 treated post.