I for one am NOT out to prove anything because I am not a professional oil analyst or automotive technician.
I am only repeating and following Kubota dealer/technicians/owners manual/WSM recommendations. I believe any major manufacturer such as Kubota would have done R&D and should know what is best in their specific application.
To the OP;
Do what you want as it is your machine/money but I follow specific manufacturers recommendations and will be switching after proper break in.
real easy, pull a UOA on an engine that was switched to syn early and you will see more fuel in the oil dilution from the rings not being seated vs one that was broken in CORRECTLY. another good way is to do a compression test and the one with the early switch to syn will have lower compression.
Bingo and nothing new. And the higher fuel %'s will still be low and nothing to worry about. Heck, using Power service will do more harm or using a crappy air filter.
The higher fuel dilution #'s are because the break-in was not accomplished correctly, an engine that was broken in correctly and then switched to syn will have lower #'s than the prematurely switched engine. The Cummins with DPF has been notorious for having oil/fuel dilution due to the active regenerations. Because of the fuel dilution even if you have syn in it, you will still have to change the oil to keep from causing ACCELERATED wear due to the lower lubricity from the thinned oil. There have been reports of oil change notifications in as little as 1800 miles! The severe service interval is 7500 miles! In the case of the Cummins it was related to excessive idling(not driving it as INTENDED) and too many regens but it is a reminder that oil dilution is BAD!
Switching the engine over to syn early saves you NOTHING and can shorten the life of the engine and make it use more fuel AND oil than it would if broken in right!
For the OP go over to Bobistheoilguy.com and explore, there's more oil information on that site then you'll get here. Just about everyone has their own opinion as what to use, how to use it and so on when it comes to fluids. Use what what brand you like dino or syntheic as long as it rated for your engine and see if your engine likes it.
ON my Boomer I changed everything over to Asmoil at the 50 hr mark. In the engine I use 10w30 small engine oil. Never used a drop of oil & stays very clean between changes. I change it every fall and the oil had around 90 hrs on it.
At the 50 hr mark the engine would have travel roughly 2250 miles or more. I bet your manual says after the 50 hr service, to change the oil every 100 or 200 hrs. So if the engine wasn't broke in at 50 hrs, you would think they would state change the oil every 50 hrs till the engine has x amount of hrs on it, then change at the 100 or 200 hr mark.
Be VERY careful with BITOG site. The new owner is well, you figure it out. Lost a LOT of old sponsors and banning of many old-time members. The site lost a lot of credit for many.
Haven't been to Bob's site for awhile, unless the old posts were removed, there is still a lot of very good information there.
P.S. was just over to Bob's, doesn't look like a lot has change. Still lot of good information. Over 38,000 members & over 2+ million posts.
As far as Being Careful, I'd say the same holds true on this site or any other.
We are talking tractors here. Again look at old uoa's here...you will never seen any accelerated wear in your life that will hinder engine life! Why are you comparing a Kubota to a Cummins engine with DPF? No engine close...I have had more fuel issues with motorcycle carbs then this issue. If you idle a diesel you Will have high fuel issues no matter the OIL.
For ME, I switch asap since it saves me times and money....
Sent via kindle fire
the engine I am referring to IS in tractors too and some DO have DPFs. I am comparing them to prove the point that oil/fuel dilution WILL affect oil life. also for fuel to get in the oil it has to go past the rings(which are NOT seated correctly because you didn' break it in correctly) and that fuel that is getting by the rings also has a bad habit of stripping the oil off the cylinder walls again causing MORE wear (if you're lucky) or scored cylinders if you are not.
And how are you saving money, you are putting MORE expensive oil in the engine and potentially have to change it SOONER than you would if the engine is broken in CORRECTLY(or still on dino oil). just 5% fuel dilution will increase wear greatly(to the point that you need to change the oil NOW)
the oil analysis places start to get nervous when the dilution levels are around 2-3%
I break my engines in correctly for the simple fact I don't want to spend $10-20K. rebuilding an engine that should not be needing rebuilt if the recommendations were followed. I also do run synthetics in my vehicles(2 came with it from the factory AND were already broken in) and my P/U has it too. as soon as my tractor has enough hours it will be on syn too.
