Your warranty can't be voided if you use a API rated oil as spelled out in your owners Manual ? Show me one owners/service manual thats not to use synthetic oil ,many new vehicles come from the factory with synthetic.
Royal Purple??
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Your warranty can't be voided if you use a API rated oil as spelled out in your owners Manual ? Show me one owners/service manual thats not to use synthetic oil ,many new vehicles come from the factory with synthetic.
90cummins
Veteran Member
Ohhh boy!!
Oil is a topic that has so many opinions!
RP is a very good oil but looks to be over $30 a gallon per Amazon which is a bit pricey.
Kubota and others would specify synthetic if they knew the specific application needed it such as sub-zero operation.
Diesels are built to operate thousands of hours on mineral oil providing the correct grade is used.
Fuel dilution is often the result of being operated at to light a load and not being run up to operating temperature long enough.
Synthetic oil can prolong the break-in process but if conditions dictate it then that's what you should use.
The best oil in the world cannot prevent fuel dilution or wet-stacking issues if the engine is not operated with a load that is sufficient to properly warm up and load the piston rings (combustion pressure). Break-in will not occur if heat, load & pressure are insufficient.
The difference in life expectancy between synthetics & mineral oils in most instances will be minimal if any providing the correct grade (weight) is used.
Any diesel will have a short life if not operated properly.
I use Shell Rotella T6 5w40 synthetic $23 gallon at Walmart.
Rotella T6 is an excellent oil for conditions from sub zero to desert temperatures.
Quality & price is my guide. I use synthetics because it gives me peace of mind when starting my engine at zero degrees.
Ultimately it is your decision, your money a poor choice would be hard to make.
90cummins
Oil is a topic that has so many opinions!
RP is a very good oil but looks to be over $30 a gallon per Amazon which is a bit pricey.
Kubota and others would specify synthetic if they knew the specific application needed it such as sub-zero operation.
Diesels are built to operate thousands of hours on mineral oil providing the correct grade is used.
Fuel dilution is often the result of being operated at to light a load and not being run up to operating temperature long enough.
Synthetic oil can prolong the break-in process but if conditions dictate it then that's what you should use.
The best oil in the world cannot prevent fuel dilution or wet-stacking issues if the engine is not operated with a load that is sufficient to properly warm up and load the piston rings (combustion pressure). Break-in will not occur if heat, load & pressure are insufficient.
The difference in life expectancy between synthetics & mineral oils in most instances will be minimal if any providing the correct grade (weight) is used.
Any diesel will have a short life if not operated properly.
I use Shell Rotella T6 5w40 synthetic $23 gallon at Walmart.
Rotella T6 is an excellent oil for conditions from sub zero to desert temperatures.
Quality & price is my guide. I use synthetics because it gives me peace of mind when starting my engine at zero degrees.
Ultimately it is your decision, your money a poor choice would be hard to make.
90cummins
Gary Fowler
Super Star Member
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- 2009 Kubota RTV 900, 2009 Kubota B26 TLB & 2010 model LS P7010
If you follow mfg. directions on break-in, you wont need 200+ hours for the rings to seat. Every engine I have seen says to vary the engine speed and load during the first 50 hours of operation with only limited time at WOT then fall back to around 75% power but always loading up the engine. A heavy load for 50 hours helps seat the rings more so than 200 hours at minimal load.
Too many hours with a non-detergent break-in oil will cause a lot of carbon buildup that will do more harm than good. As for whether you use a diesel rated dino oil or full synthetic after the 50 hours should be of no consequence as far as ring seating and break-in..
I changed the oil in my new LS at 50 hours and the oil was as clear as the day it was put in (suspect because it was a non-detergent break-in oil). After I put in some Shell Rotella T6, within an hour of running the oil was as black as graphite showing that it was cutting out the buildup of carbon from the engine. The engine uses no oil between changes now. I have done this on every new vehicle I have bought and never have I had any issues with oil consumption.
I have had new engines on boats, motorcycles, cars, trucks, lawn mowers and airplanes and never seen a OEM manual recommending 200 hours of break-in. 50 hours seems to be the standard or at first required oil change which on newer automobiles is at around 7500 miles if you follow the advise of the on board oil monitor.
OF course everyone is free to follow what ever free advice that they come across. It is usually worth what you pay for it. I tend to follow the owner's manual rather than some jake-legged dealer person who likely has never looked at the OEM manual for maintenance for anything they sell.
Too many hours with a non-detergent break-in oil will cause a lot of carbon buildup that will do more harm than good. As for whether you use a diesel rated dino oil or full synthetic after the 50 hours should be of no consequence as far as ring seating and break-in..
I changed the oil in my new LS at 50 hours and the oil was as clear as the day it was put in (suspect because it was a non-detergent break-in oil). After I put in some Shell Rotella T6, within an hour of running the oil was as black as graphite showing that it was cutting out the buildup of carbon from the engine. The engine uses no oil between changes now. I have done this on every new vehicle I have bought and never have I had any issues with oil consumption.
I have had new engines on boats, motorcycles, cars, trucks, lawn mowers and airplanes and never seen a OEM manual recommending 200 hours of break-in. 50 hours seems to be the standard or at first required oil change which on newer automobiles is at around 7500 miles if you follow the advise of the on board oil monitor.
OF course everyone is free to follow what ever free advice that they come across. It is usually worth what you pay for it. I tend to follow the owner's manual rather than some jake-legged dealer person who likely has never looked at the OEM manual for maintenance for anything they sell.
Langanobob
Gold Member
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Long story short, some years ago Castrol came out with a highly refined petroleum based oil and marketed it as synthetic. Mobil sued them and lost. The ruling was that the oil had enough of the characteristics of a synthetic oil that it could legally be marketed as synthetic. End result is that many of the oils labeled synthetic these days are technically not synthetic. They are very good oil. Oil and additive packages have improved so much that it really doesn't matter what you use as long as it meets the viscosity and API spec and you change it when needed. I'm not convinced about getting oil analysis done, the cost of regular analysis seems like it approaches or exceeds the cost of just changing your oil so I don't see the point, unless it's an over the road truck or other large machine/tractor with huge oil capacity.
Oil analysis is a health check for your engine
If you suspect problems or just want to know the general overall condition it's a good tool ....with that said most tractor owners will never have one run...personally I think one at 50 or 100 hours is not a bad ideal to set a baseline....than every 500 to 1000 hours or even longer if no other problems are suspected .....extended oil changes in most home tractors are just not cost effective....
If you suspect problems or just want to know the general overall condition it's a good tool ....with that said most tractor owners will never have one run...personally I think one at 50 or 100 hours is not a bad ideal to set a baseline....than every 500 to 1000 hours or even longer if no other problems are suspected .....extended oil changes in most home tractors are just not cost effective....
dodge man
Super Star Member
Just my opinion, but unless you have an engine that holds a lot of oil, or think you have a problem, oil analysis is a waste of money. Also less money lost if the engine blows up on a small tractor vs one that cost big money.
Langanobob
Gold Member
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- Reno, NV
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Good points about using oil analysis as a tool for checking engine condition.
Trillium Farm
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I'm 100% with you! Oil analysis are not worth the cost for us, only for fleet owners where they average-out the mileage of all their trucks does it make sense. The judge that adjudicated the Castrol-Mobil trial did a great disservice to the consumer. Mobil too then went to a non synthetic oil and called it synthetic.