RS1400 Tiller. Where do I buy the wheel bearing for a tailwheel?

[California]

Yanmar RS1400 Tiller. The decal on it shows it's for YM2000.

One of the 'training wheels' on the back has a crunchy sound and didn't turn smoothly.

I took off the outer bearing cover and pried on the glued-in rubber seal protecting the wheel bearing. But discovered the rubber was a thin layer glued to a metal inner cap, which I had damaged. With everything glued solid this hub assembly is obviously not intended to be opened up but rather, replaced as a unit.

I packed it with grease and replaced the outer cap. It doesn't resist turning now but it still sounds crunchy. I suspect there are bearing race fragments in there.

Is anyone scrapping one of these tillers, or is this little hub assembly still available? A part # would be appreciated if someone has the manual.

Thanks in advance for any advice!

And - why use the training wheels? Because I'm running this tiller behind the YM186D, 15 PTO hp, instead of the YM240 (YM2000) that has the intended 20 PTO hp. I need to avoid burying the tiller clear to its tine axle which stalls the smaller tractor.

 

[California]

An old photo from the first time I tried the RS1400 with the YM186D.

I learned something here. The half-forks down to the tail wheels should be on the outer side, not the inner side as shown here. I swapped tail wheels to get them conforming to the decal on the tiller. Now they track properly without making those gouges. This is counter-intuitive. The smooth side of the wheel would do less damage to my orchard trees if I got too close.

The important thing I learned is the little YM186D can operate this tiller - so long as it has the optional tail wheels to control depth.

 

[ponytug]

My bet is Frederick's knows.

Did you notice the bearing size? Any numbers? A "sealed" bearing (-RS) usually has rubber over steel as the design.

A lot of agricultural bearing designs use integrated seals (RS, or better), or an exterior seal, but for things like tillers and cultivators that are rotating in dirt, once the seal goes, the bearing is usually toast as well, and the whole thing is designed to be swapped out as one.

Any chance that you could press the old bearing out?

All the best,

Peter

 

[winston1]

Manual: Box

 

[ponytug]

Manual: Box

That's great! That looks like some 6002 bearings and some seals.

All the best,

Peter

 

[CalG]

You will need to remove the failed bearing in order to replace it.

Do that NOW, and capture the bearing dimensions. Mosey on down to your FLAPS, NAPA is best, and order out a new bearing.

 

[California]

Manual: Box

Thank you Winston!

And everybody, for the good advice.

 

[bmaverick]

Yanmar RS1400 Tiller. The decal on it shows it's for YM2000.

One of the 'training wheels' on the back has a crunchy sound and didn't turn smoothly.

I took off the outer bearing cover and pried on the glued-in rubber seal protecting the wheel bearing. But discovered the rubber was a thin layer glued to a metal inner cap, which I had damaged. With everything glued solid this hub assembly is obviously not intended to be opened up but rather, replaced as a unit.

I packed it with grease and replaced the outer cap. It doesn't resist turning now but it still sounds crunchy. I suspect there are bearing race fragments in there.

Is anyone scrapping one of these tillers, or is this little hub assembly still available? A part # would be appreciated if someone has the manual.

Thanks in advance for any advice!

And - why use the training wheels? Because I'm running this tiller behind the YM186D, 15 PTO hp, instead of the YM240 (YM2000) that has the intended 20 PTO hp. I need to avoid burying the tiller clear to its tine axle which stalls the smaller tractor.

You can look it up in the attached.

The link Winston shared doesn't have the rotary tiller manuals.

Many of them are on TractorForum.com

 

[bmaverick]

and there is a second one,

 

[bmaverick]

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