RTV Lights

[ajdillon]

I put the V4239 worklights from Kubota on the rear edge of my cab roof to light up the cargo box at night and I was happy with them, so I ordered another set for the front. I used the installed work light relay and just swapped out the switch to a single pole, double throw, center off switch so I could either light up the front or the back, but not both simultaneously. Looking at it after the fact I'm thinking I should have tried to find some kind of spot lights for the front to light up way out in front of me, rather than another set of work lights which act more like flood lights than spots. Anybody got a suggestion for some front spot lights that will light up the other side of a field at night to look for critter eyes that won't fry the relay I am using for the worklights (3 amps, I think)
Thanks for any suggestions
ajdillon

 

[rtv900]

I put four of the kubota lights on the front roof of my RTV. I also put two on the rear and two that point to the sides. It is nice to have light when you need it.

I attached two John Deere ATV spot lights to the front bumper. I have them switched seperately. I use them when I need a long range light. I have been very happy with them. They were $55.00 for the pair. They are in the John Deere Buck ATV accessory brochure. I hope that helps.

Oh. You might have to upgrade the relay. That should not be that big of a deal though.

 

[bczoom]

I added at least 10 lights to my RTV. Most are of the worklight variety but I also have a RAM Mount spotlight for distance vision.
Here is the spotlight I have but they have several different mounting systems. I can use as a long-distance driving light pointing out the front or remove from the base and use as a handheld spotlight so I can scan areas. The one I have plugs right into the 12V accessory plug but you can obviously hard-wire it.

Brian

 

[Keybal]

I am in the process of installing one of these " GoLight ", a model 2049 that has both a dash mounted control and a remote control.

I think that the amperage draw is about 5.5 amps.

My problem is not having a roof to mount it to. I think I have a solution, but have to wait until I heal up from rotator cuff surgery to implement it.

Once I get it mounted, I will post some pictures.

 

[bczoom]

Keybal,

For a light mount, do a google search for "O-Clamp". The 2" ones fit the main bars of the ROPS. A couple of O-Clamps and a piece of steel for a base might be an option. It also makes it a quick removal if you want. Be careful of your height. On mine, I only have a couple inches over the roof if I try to pull into a standard garage door. Any roof mounted accessories get clipped off. I put a metal plate on my roof and only use magnetic base lights up there. So far, I've always remembered to remove before I go into a 6 1/2' garage door.

BTW. Those are nice lights. A couple things I've found.
You need to mount as level as possible. If the base is pitched in any direction, when you go to pan in any direction, you need to do a vertical adjustment as well.

Be careful not to reverse the polarity on the power connections. They don't work well (at all...) if you do that. I cooked mine (which was similar) in 1-2 seconds.

Brian

 

[ajdillon]

Thanks Keybal, the GoLight looks like a great solution. I have a roof, but it looks like I'll need to figure out how to level it up, since the front of the roof dips down.
ajdillon

 

[RDBOLSTER]

ajdillion asked where he should find some extra good lights for the front of his Kubota RTV. Check out this website for some of the finest in lighting for on and off road. Call or write and ask for Dave. He is very knowlegeable and helpful. These folks are experts on the lighting subject... www.rallylights.com

 

[Keybal]

About a month ago, I was going mount a "Go Light" to the RTV. Due to some rotator cuff surgery, it took a little longer than I wanted.

Anyhow, I came up with a system to mount the light on the RTV. The initial mounting consisted of fasting the Go Light to a box that I made out of wood (poplar). I then mounted the box to hinges that connected to another piece of poplar mounted on the rear guard behind the seat. The whole assembly would fold down when not in use to clear my garage door frame.

When placed in the up position, it was held in place by a Drop-Leaf Table Brace.

First photo

 

[Keybal]

When in the folded position, this is what it looked like.

 

[bczoom]

Nicely done!

Any problems with the brace jarring loose when bouncing around?

I have a roof on mine. I screwed a piece of stainless steel to the top flat portion and use magnetic mount lights. (pic attached with strobe mounted). Since I put the lift kit on, I don't think I can fit under a standard garage door anymore (heads up if you're considering the same lift kit) but I would just remove the light and (using the magnet), stick the light to the back of the rear cage.

Brian

 

[Keybal]

I soon found out that while the system work pretty good, I would hit my head on it on occasion.

Also, after about a week, the spring on the drop leaf bracket broke. So I figured I need a different way to mount the light. I also thought that since I have the BX22, I would devise a system so that I could use the light on either piece of equipment.

The Go Light that I bought came with a dash mounted control (shown here) and a handheld remote control.

The wiring for the light required +12 volts, a ground and running the cable with connectors to the dash mounted control head. I picked up the +12 volts by piggybacking to one of the circuits in the fuse compartment and drilling and tapping a ground connection in the same area.

 

[Keybal]

another view of the control

 

[Keybal]

I came up with another mounting system. This one would make the light detachable. I found some panel hanging clips at McMaster Carr and reworked the mounting system

 

[Keybal]

I also had to make the power and factory cable detachable, which I did by using a multi-pin inline connector from AMP.

 

[Keybal]

Since the Go Light can work with only the handheld remote control, I made a bracket for the BX22. This time, I only had to run 12 power to the light, which I picked up from the auxiliary light already mounted on the rops.

 

[Keybal]

I also drilled through the bracket so that I could instal a T-Handle Push-Button Quick-Release Pin, as seen in the last picture, to keep the light from bouncing off either machine.

I don't know it it was worth all of the trouble, but I amused myself for a few hours and had fun.