run a new water line or dig a new well?

[mkr7734]

If you "T" into the existing line near the well and run the pipe to the barn, the barn water outlet will still provide pressure drop to cycle the well pump. If the pump is off, and the pressure tank at the cabin has water in it (as it normally would), then the pressure tank at the house will back feed water to the barn. When the low set point is reached, it will start the well pump.

Static water pressure at the barn will be affected by altitude and setting at the pressure switch at the cabin. When the water is turned on, flow and pressure will also be affected by pipe size and length.

If one needed a more adequate supply, flow and dynamic pressure, then installing a pressure tank at the barn would be an option. As long as there is no check valve between the two pressure tanks (cabin and barn) they will be in parallel, increasing time between well pump cycling with water use at either cabin or barn. This would also help mitigate lower well output if that were a problem.

Sure could work but against the codes here. There must be a back check valve in the line coming out of the well to the pressure tank to protect the well from back flushing what could somehow become bad water from the house? go figure.

 

[Soundguy]

...........depends on where he taps into the house plumbing.

I'm just going by what the OP said in his 1st post, that if he runs from the cabin, it's softened water.

I like the idea of getting the water from the well, especially if the supply off the well is larger than the line run to the cabin. If the cabin line is smaller, you might have an issue running water in the cabin AND at the barn, if they are all on 1 line. having seperate lines, even from the same source is still doable, Sounds like the barn could go with a half inch line maybee, if it's just fish cleaning and bucket filling and wash jobs.. the extra pvc cost is minimal, and he doesn't have to worry about that septic field issue he mentioned.

Again.. I'm just going off what the OP posted in his original message.

 

[Soundguy]

Sure could work but against the codes here. There must be a back check valve in the line coming out of the well to the pressure tank to protect the well from back flushing what could somehow become bad water from the house? go figure.

already been discussed how to circum vent this and still have backflow protection to the well.

 

[Deere Dude]

If it was me, I would run a line from the cabin to the barn, unfiltered and unsoftened provided the pressure in the cabin and pipe sizes are satisfactory. Recently I had a well 15 feet from my Tpole shed and my house was 150' away in the other direction. I chose to run a 1" 160# pvc coil line from the well to the house which had the tank and softener. Then from there I ran another 1" pvc line in the same trench past the well to the pole shed. I was perplexed as to what to do and I didn't have this forum for help at the time.

But, I don't regret it for one minute and would do it again. I can shut the valve to the shed off in the house and blow the lines out for the winter any time I desire. It just cost a little pipe.

 

[bspeedy]

Surely the softener is after the pressure tank. T in the line, between the pressure tank, and softener, with a shut of valve there. Personally, I prefer a brass ball valve.

I use the black poly well pipe here. And to prevent rock punctures with the fragmented sand rock we have here, I run a 3/4" line through a 1-1/4" line as a conduit. We learned that lesson many years ago, after a rock punctured a line, 2 years after installing it. The second line was installed in 1967, and no problems with it yet.

If ever there is a problem with the pressurized line, whether it would split, to whatever causing a leak. Simply dig up at each end, disconnect, and pull the old line out, and shove a new one though, to reconnect. If there are some serious arcs going from point A to point B, 1-1/2" line would make it easier to push it through.

Plastic well pipe comes in different pressure strengths. I use the 160 for the pressure line, although the system is max. 50 psi. The 1-1/4" conduit has the 100 psi rating, and less expensive.

It might be tough to find the length you need at a big box store, other than in 500' rolls. I needed to make a 190' run from the well pit to the new horse barn. I finally found 200' lengths of the sizes I needed at a geothermal heat contractor, and was actually less than the price per foot at the big box stores.

Just my 2 cents.

This is the ticket. Be sure to use brass adapters for anything underground. Nylon will split. Getting a quote on a new well will surely cure you of that idea. No second pump needed, as already pointed out. Be sure to protect the line from freezing in the shop. Use heat tape and insulation.

Very simple project, but get someone to install it for you if you are unsure. Ditch digging will be the bulk of the cost. Do that part yourself and hire out the install if it makes you more comfortable.

If you DIY - Be very careful back-filling the ditch with the water line in it. fill the first 6-8 inches of the trench by hand to make sure no rocks are right on top of the water line. Then, push it in with the tractor. We did them this way for years and I can't recall a punctured line. Do use the black coil plastic pipe that is popular in the Northern US. Always unroll it. Don't just grab one end a go - it will kink. Use a little bit of heat on the pipe when forcing it over a brass fitting. Use two clamps. NEVER kink the pipe. Throw it out if you do. Sorry for the somewhat dis-jointed comments. Just having flashbacks of Dad shouting at us as we were working. Good times.

 

[Deere Dude]

This is the ticket. Be sure to use brass adapters for anything underground. Nylon will split. .

If you DIY - Be Use two clamps. NEVER kink the pipe. Throw it out if you do. .

Stainless Steel clamps

 

[Wagtail]

Why don't you install a 5000ltr poly rain-water tank, plumbed to the barn gutter system? A small electric pump from the tank would supply your needs and the water is already soft.

 

[RedTailHawk]

Why don't you install a 5000ltr poly rain-water tank, plumbed to the barn gutter system? A small electric pump from the tank would supply your needs and the water is already soft.

Sounds interesting, but that seems to be an Aussie specific product. First time I've Googled something and all results were Australian websites. Shipping would probably be cost-prohibitive. Anyone know if a similar product available in the US?

 

[RedTailHawk]

Ok. Found something available in the US. 1320 Gallon Water Tank Bushman CWT1320

Are these designed to be buried below the frost line?

 

[RedTailHawk]

Now I'm intrigued about the Underground Water Cistern Storage Tanks. My barn has a very large roof so I could collect a lot of water. But it brings up a bunch of questions: didn't the EPA just make it illegal to collect rainwater? What kind of maintenance does an Underground Water Cistern Storage Tank require? I imagine if its taking water from the roof, that it is also collecting debris (even if there is a filter, I'm sure something is getting through). If something does get into the tank, does it foul up the water? Has anyone installed one? What other components (e.g. risers, vents, etc) are required to install this system?