Running tractor without loader cylinder

[hotbam37]

Hello all, I'm new to tractors and hydraulics as a whole. I have experience with most other things though. Yesterday the left cylinder piston on our front loader snapped in half. Of course the replacement part is about $1200 that we don't have right now. I really want to use the brush hog this week for clearing some brush. I plan on getting the cylinder repaired/replaced once the money is available. My brother and I removed the cylinder to try and get the remaining piston rod out of the cylinder but can't seem to do it yet. So what I need to do is figure out what to do with the supply and return lines that went to the cylinder in order to run the tractor without risk of damaging the pump or something else. Is there a way to do this? I figured I could couple the two lines together and it would work but I can't find any info on this. Also worth noting, I lost a lot of hydraulic fluid when the piston cracked in half and retracted into the cylinder. I didn't realize it cracked before retracting it too far. Any of your help would be really appreciated. It's a 2022 4044m with a 400e loader. The cylinder part number is AHC13628
Thanks!

 

[LouNY]

I would plug each line separately do not tie them together.
Then, that should be a quick detach loader. Carefully remove the loader from the tractor which is then completely usable.
You could take the cylinder to a machine shop and have the piston rod welded back together.
Just guessing that you were back blading with your bucket when this happened.

 

[Roadworthy]

The tractor is a year old. You may wish to see if the part is on warranty. That could save a dollar or two. You may not be able to remove the loader as Lou suggested. Many require you to be able to manipulate them with the hydraulics while you are removing them. Check the owners' manual for info. By all means cap the lines. The tractor can certainly be used for mowing with or without the loader. Just be sure it doesn't drag.

 

[4570Man]

You need to cap each line separately. At that point you could continue bush hogging but don’t attempt to do anything with the loader because it wouldn’t take much to tweak it with just one cylinder.

 

[oldtimer 66]

It looks like there is something wrong at the rod end connection. There is a lot of rust and the cross pin looks out of place, to deep towards the middle of the loader frame, like a piece is missing, flanged bushing, etc. Maybe something went south at that connection and that's what caused the cylinder rod to bind and then break.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Just chain the bucket up to hold it up. Put some tape on the valve handle and don't use that handle. All should do just fine. Or, you can take the loader off, it's useless anyway.

 

[zzvyb6]

Your loader should have quick disconnects near the valve. Just pull the curl connections.

 

[pmsmechanic]

I would plug each line separately do not tie them together.
Then, that should be a quick detach loader. Carefully remove the loader from the tractor which is then completely usable.
You could take the cylinder to a machine shop and have the piston rod welded back together.
Just guessing that you were back blading with your bucket when this happened.

This!!

 

[hotbam37]

I would plug each line separately do not tie them together.
Then, that should be a quick detach loader. Carefully remove the loader from the tractor which is then completely usable.
You could take the cylinder to a machine shop and have the piston rod welded back together.
Just guessing that you were back blading with your bucket when this happened.

Thanks everyone for the good help. You guys are lifesavers right now. I'm glad I asked before connecting the lines because in my brain I figured it would be okay to connect the lines lol. Let me ask you this. The piston broke near the front where the bucket attaches. I now have the rest of the piston extended all the way out. Is there any reason I couldn't just hook the lines back up to the cylinder and just not touch it so it stays extended. From what I hear, it will try to retract on it's own some but I am unsure if it will retract completely causing it to recess all the way into the cylinder and leak out again. Also, just trying to make sure I don't destroy the pump. Once I plug the lines, should I just add more hydraulic fluid to the system or is there a special way to do that so it's not got much air in it? Thanks again for everyone's help. You are really saving my skin!

 

[hotbam37]

It looks like there is something wrong at the rod end connection. There is a lot of rust and the cross pin looks out of place, to deep towards the middle of the loader frame, like a piece is missing, flanged bushing, etc. Maybe something went south at that connection and that's what caused the cylinder rod to bind and then break.

Yeah I'm not sure if something is missing, I'm going check the other side and see if anything looks off. I don't have a good eye for hydraulic stuff so thanks for pointing that out.