Rusted lift arm ball

[mcfarmall]

Once you get the ball free, you can turn them 90 degrees to the arm and take a zoom spout oiler and fill the spherical outer cavity with oil. When you turn the ball back where it's supposed to be, the oil will be trapped in the cavity and provide lubrication for a long time.

 

[flingwing1969]

Here is another great way to remove corrosion and it really does completely remove it, not simply loosen it up. I've done this a number of times and a friend of mine bought a huge milling machine with various jaws that looked like they had been in the field for years. Two days in the bucket and they were nearly like new - some pitting but nothing that couldn't be lived with and they worked!

DIY: Electrolysis rust removal. - YouTube

 

[DJ54]

Here is another great way to remove corrosion and it really does completely remove it, not simply loosen it up. I've done this a number of times and a friend of mine bought a huge milling machine with various jaws that looked like they had been in the field for years. Two days in the bucket and they were nearly like new - some pitting but nothing that couldn't be lived with and they worked!

DIY: Electrolysis rust removal. - YouTube

I've done this quite a few times cleaning up many things. Works great..!! I use a knotted cup brush to clean items up, and polish them. Tough to get that cup brush in some tight spots. Just bought a new to me, like new blast cabinet, so will put the finish touches on those items in this. And, use it for cleaning up many small tractor parts. The electrolysis to kill the rust, blast cabinet to clean it all up..!!

And, I think you will like using the 50/50/ mix. For really nasty scaly rusty bolts, I'll apply it a few days ahead of time, and several times a day, if I happen to pass by it. I applied it on an old manure spreaders apron tension bolts that had set out for 20 some years, and had a lot of flakey rust on them. After applying for 3-4 days, wire brushed off the loose rust & paint. Once I broke the lock nuts apart, and loosened it, I spun the nuts off with my fingers. Made a believer out of me right there.

 

[tmcj]

White lithium grease has been the best solution to keeping them lubed and moving freely that I have tried yet. Spray and turn, spray and spin, etc. to work it in well, don't forget the forward pivot points/balls also.

 

[chim]

I use Permatex anti-sieze on the lift arms and top link threads.

View attachment 545651

I've had great results with that anti-sieze on the toplink threads. The trans fluid/acetone worked very well on the bolts on my Ford tractor's muffler flange. Someone posted about using wax to free rusted parts, and that worked for me a few times. A small MAPP or propane torch is used to warm the parts (not real hot) and the wax is drawn into the junction similar to the way solder goes into a pipe joint.

 

[PILOON]

Another trick would be to rotate the ball so that you have portions visible and then you could power wire brush back to nice and glossy, ready to grease.

 

[Kando]

I thought about doing that with a drill attachment, but I couldn't find something quite suitable during a quick jaunt through tsc.

 

[bhstovall]

What about after cleaning & getting everything working properly, just drilling and tapping a 1/4"-28 hole for a grease fitting, then you could just hit it with a few shots of grease when you lube the chassis or loader pins? At least that way you are pushing any accumulated dust and grit out of the socket.