Rusted nut wont budge - 48" rotary mower blade

[Dan707]

Bought a 48" Gearmore rotary mower for peanuts and I quickly learned why. One of the blades is loose yet the nut is completely rusted solid. Ive been spraying this thing off and on with PB Blaster for over a year now. I finally gave it another good go today and snapped my breaker bar! (Had a 10ft pipe on!). Heated up the nut with MAP but didnt budge. Is this just a lost cause??

 

[George2615]

The only success I've had removing a nut like that is to heat the nut cherry red hot with Oxy/Acet torch the remove ith an impact gun.

 

[Spiros]

Heat usually works, prop that torch up and let it sit for 10 minutes or so. Then attack with breaker bar or impact wrench. If that fails you might have to burn it out with a oxy/acc torch and replace nut and bolt.

 

[JerryK]

Some stuff has left hand threads due to the shaft rotation direction. Seems to me I had a car YEARS ago that had different threads on the left and right side lug nuts... but again, I am old and feeble minded...

 

[k0ua]

As said, check the thread.. but try Kroil before you give up. Kroil is better than PB blaster.

Also an impact is ALWAYS better than a breaker bar. Impacts are magic.

 

[oldballs]

Some stuff has left hand threads due to the shaft rotation direction. Seems to me I had a car YEARS ago that had different threads on the left and right side lug nuts... but again, I am old and feeble minded...

Yeah, it seems to me that some 40's plymouths were like that IIRC.....IIRC.....IIRC.....
Like kOua James said, ....if you got one, impacts are magic.

 

[LD1]

Another good case for acetone/atf mix.

And yes, heat till dull red. MAP torch may not be enough

 

[Barry 1]

What do you mean"One of the blades is loose"? They are supposed to be loose,and swing on the bolts.

 

[Travelover]

I'd grind on one face of the nut until you can split it with a chisel. Then buy a new nut.

 

[LD1]

Or just torch it off all together.

Since the bolt and nut should be replaced anyway, and they are only about $25 a set.

But agree with Barry1, blades should be loose

 

[Omega Woods]

Some stuff has left hand threads due to the shaft rotation direction. Seems to me I had a car YEARS ago that had different threads on the left and right side lug nuts... but again, I am old and feeble minded...

This.

I think it's reverse-threaded.

 

[Mike9]

I copied this from OTT.com and believe me it works like a champ.

[Machinist's Workshop MagT recently published some information on various penetrating oils. The magazine reports they tested penetrates for break out torque on rusted nuts.They are below. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

Penetrating oils ........... Average torque load to loosen

No Oil used ................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ...............127 pounds
Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds
ATF*-Acetone mix............53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test.

ATF-Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a 50-50 mix.

*ATF=Automatic Transmission Fluid.]

 

[Omega Woods]

I copied this from OTT.com and believe me it works like a champ.

[Machinist's Workshop MagT recently published some information on various penetrating oils. The magazine reports they tested penetrates for break out torque on rusted nuts.They are below. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

Penetrating oils ........... Average torque load to loosen

No Oil used ................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ...............127 pounds
Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds
ATF*-Acetone mix............53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test.

ATF-Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a 50-50 mix.

*ATF=Automatic Transmission Fluid.]

Cool. I have three big cans of Kroil, so I'll probably wait before risking the acetone but I'm going to give that a try sometime.

To the OP, soak it in ATF/Acetone, then try turning it to the right once or twice.

 

[Clint S]

Map gas will not get it hot enough. Use oxy act or just cut it with a cut off wheel and crack it with a chisel. Done that many times

 

[arrow]

The most I've ever treated a stuck nut with PB Blaster was 3 days. You've been at this for a year. Makes me think that something else is up and no amount of penetrant may help. The fact that you put a 10' cheater bar on it and broke the breaker, talks to me as well. That nut should have broken free with no penetrant with that size bar. I've put a 5' cheater on an 18" long breaker and was able to simply snap the bolts off. These were bolts that had 7/8" nuts on them and one could see rust had fused the nut and bolt together. What you show should have turned easily with a 10' cheater bar if right threaded.

If it is, I think there is enough thread to attempt to spin on another same size nut and see if it will "catch". May begin to relate what type (l or r) nut it is.

Btw, on the left side of that nut, it almost looks as if there is a weld bead there. Can't tell if its rust or otherwise.

 

[jerrybob]

I copied this from OTT.com and believe me it works like a champ.

[Machinist's Workshop MagT recently published some information on various penetrating oils. The magazine reports they tested penetrates for break out torque on rusted nuts.They are below. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

Penetrating oils ........... Average torque load to loosen

No Oil used ................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ...............127 pounds
Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds
ATF*-Acetone mix............53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test.

ATF-Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a 50-50 mix.

*ATF=Automatic Transmission Fluid.]

The 50/50 acetone/ATF mix works well......I've loosened hundreds of old nuts on old 100 to 150 year old wagons, buggies and carriages........works great!! Once in a great while.....have to heat them but rarely.

 

[CCWKen]

I could never get ATF/Acetone to even mix. It immediately starts to separate and every U-got-tubed video I've seen shows the same thing. I've found that plain ole diesel works good. And it's pretty abundant around here.

 

[k0ua]

I am sticking with my Kroil and an impact.. That and turning the nut the correct direction.

 

[4570Man]

I'd try it with an impact. If you know anyone with a 3/4 drive impact try that. Worst case scenario you can remove it with a flame wrench.

 

[pmsmechanic]

Just get it warm enough to melt wax. Stick an old candle against the treads and let the wax melt into the threads. Let it cool and repeat a few times and the bolt will come off. You don't need to heat it red hot. Just heat it hot enough to melt the wax.