rustoleum and durability

[chopped]

I saw some at the Lowes and I just might use that. Yes I have a sprayer so I could go that route.There isnt alot to spray ,thats why Im considering cans.But perhaps it isnt as think from the can. Im not looking for perfection, so I could actually brush it on.(dont like that idea LOL) Im assuming that ""INDUSTRIAL""" is better?

Do you have a paint sprayer? If so, buy it at HD or Lowes in the gallon can($25 ish)...I have found it's a much better quality than in the rattle can Rustoleum.

 

[chopped]

Nice results. My stuff is under cover but still fades with time.

I like rustoleum also. I recently cleaned and repainted a flail mower I bought. I bought a quart can of sail blue (very close to LS blue) and sprayed it on with a $15.00 HF spray gun. Thinned the paint a little bit before putting in the gun. I could have used the spray cans but this way was much quickThose are great results.Im just looking forsomething that will'seal'' it and provide some protection. But also be able to touch it up each year.er and did a nice job. I think rustoleum also has clear in a spray also but never tried it.
I also cleaned and sprayed the box blade I bought at the same time. The scarifiers were done in rustoleum gloss black from the spray can.

 

[MotorSeven]

I've tried that with mixed results. What do you thin it with?

It's been a while and I honestly don't remember....but it would have been what ever they recommended on the can.

 

[weldingisfun]

I use acetone to thin Rustoleum paints for spray painting and clean up with mineral spirits.

 

[MESSMAKER]

I know it sounds wrong, but can of paint and a roller and brush will give you a thicker longer lasting finish. It can look a little raw when first done,but after a couple times of use, it will look much better.

 

[chopped]

That is my thoughts also..

I know it sounds wrong, but can of paint and a roller and brush will give you a thicker longer lasting finish. It can look a little raw when first done,but after a couple times of use, it will look much better.

 

[Danno1]

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Chopped,


I've used Rusto Flat Black on automotive wheels. I spray Rusto ClearSele over. Sometimes I've done "wet on wet", and sometimes I do a very thin base, let it flash off for a half hour*, and then spray the clear. As Ray66 says, it NEEDS to bake. I do this early on a hot day in the shade, and then put them in the sun to bake for a few hours. I don't have an oven that large!!! But it comes out very shiny.

Now I don't wax them, and they eventually dull, but they hold up w no chips or rust over many (10) New England winters on daily drivers. If you're doing tractor sheet metal, then you can wax this after it is fully cured. Your biggest enemy there is UV fr the sun.

I've also used this method on aluminum mud flap brackets. Now Al doesn't rust, but baked in the kitchen oven, the paint/clearcoat system resists the winter slush/sand/salt mixture (and summer mud runs) for many (like 5, 6, 7, or more) years from abrasion.




DC.


* Rusto says recoat inside 1 hour or after 48 hours.



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[/pine]

I get quality lasting results using rustoleum...it is all in the preparation and priming...the primer must be allowed to cure before over-coating for long lasting results...

 

[cqaigy2]

Nice write-up on your technique. :thumbsup:

 

[Cherokee140]

Google 100$ paint job.

I have done it and if you have bad results you need to learn how to prep the surface first. 99% of every (this paint is garbage) post is due to poor surface prep or paint getting water/something it did not like in it. Most people that paint with Rusto will just shoot it over dirt, rust, bird droppings....everything and then wonder why it did not stick or last.

It is good paint easy to touch up pretty cheap. Good luck with your project.