logan97
Gold Member
Do I have to light the fridg when I turn it to propane/LP. Never have used one before.
RV Refrigerator
- Thread starter logan97
- Start date
- Views: 3418
Egon
Epic Contributor
You will have to find some instructions for your type of unit. 
Some you may have to light.
Some you may have to light.
Bird
Rest in Peace
Some are automatic, but as Egon said, some have to be lit, probably a piezo lighter if it was made in the last 20 years. Dometic and Norcold are probably the best known brands. You might find the answers to your questions on one of their websites. It's one of those things that's hard to give an answer without seeing the refrigerator in question, and if we saw it, we'd probably be able to tell immediately.
Bird
Rest in Peace
Just for the fun of it, I've pulled up an installation and operation manual for some of the Dometics and if you go to page 9 of 12 in this .pdf file you'll see the instructions for both automatic and piezo igniters on several models.
When you turn it on or over to propane do you hear a "snap, snap, snap" in the bottom rear part of the unit? If so then it is trying to light on its own. Of course you have to have 12v going to it for it to work.
MF1455v
Platinum Member
Dometic had a massive RV fridge recall a few years ago. Its not to be used on propane until repaired if I remember correctly. If you have a Dometic go to the customer support tab in the link Bird provided and check the serial number before trying to start it. The repair is quick to repair done at one of the authorized dealers. They can also check and see if its already been repaired.
James
James
CinderSchnauzer
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Apr 26, 2006
- Messages
- 1,420
Provide the make & Model and you will get better answers.
There are recalls and significant safety hazards with some of the Norcold models as well.
Norcold model N641R
serial 10033884
DC amp .8
10 watts
since I will be driving a few hundred miles my battery should be charged and good for 5 days ??
I can also run my generator for an hour or so every evening.
sorry for the naive question this is not my expertise. Thanks for the replies.
schmism
Super Member
Mine you have to light. Dont these use tri mode fridges use pelter junctions. so the hotter you make one side the colder the other side gets, so by heating the one side by the burning propane, the other side gets cold....
hitekcountry
Gold Member
- Joined
- Oct 14, 2004
- Messages
- 495
- Location
- Ca. Mountains west of Silicon Valley
- Tractor
- Kabota 6100 Kabota L35
With RVs the most common replaced item would be batteries and second would be refrigerators, or at least that been my experience.
My most common replaced thing was batteries untill I took the time to draw out a wiring diagram on it and fix things that dealerships had hacked up. I have one optima deep cycle in it now and it lasts a LONG time. The dealer installed solar panels on the roof and never did hook them up right. They didn't use a charge controller either. It runs everything all day every day now with no problems. And I even hooked it up to a switch to charge the truck batteries when needed or to run the camper on them. It's a big truck camper I have.
For the fridge, In my experience with the tri fuel ones, 12 volt sucks unless it's already cold. AC works OK unless it's really hot outside. Gas works great no matter what but you can't use the gas on the road with most campers. The flame gets blown out. I'm not sure if this is a truck camper thing only or not. I switch to all three batteries and run it on DC when moving. No problems.
For the fridge, In my experience with the tri fuel ones, 12 volt sucks unless it's already cold. AC works OK unless it's really hot outside. Gas works great no matter what but you can't use the gas on the road with most campers. The flame gets blown out. I'm not sure if this is a truck camper thing only or not. I switch to all three batteries and run it on DC when moving. No problems.
Bird
Rest in Peace
I've had 6 RVs over the years, all of which had the AC/LPG reefers; never had one with the 12 volt option. And while it's true of some RVs that the gas flame can be blown out traveling, and it's true that all the "experts" recommend turning the gas off at the bottles or tank for safety reasons, I traveled all over the USA and some of western Canada (three trips to Alaska and back) and ran our refrigerators on gas on the road all the time.
CinderSchnauzer
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Apr 26, 2006
- Messages
- 1,420
As Bird points out it is probably automatic, however, even for propane operation 12V DC is required for the control board. Many Motorhomes have two separate battery systems. One is for the "Chassis" - runs the driving lights, starts the engine etc. This battery will charge from the alternator on the motor. Usually a second battery system provides DC power for the "Coach" such as the interior lights, fridge etc. On some MH's the engine alternator will charge the Coach battery system while driving - on others it will not. Like wise, there is usually a "Converter" or an "Inverter" installed for the purpose of charging the Coach battery system while plugged into Shore Power or while the Generator is running. Some of these systems will also charge the Chassis battery - others will not.
Until you know for sure - assume the Coach battery system does not charge while driving and plan on running the Genset or plug in to shore power as required to keep the Coach battery system charged. It really depends on how many batteries you have and how much the interior systems get used, whether they will last 5 days without charging. Until you know for sure - assume - the coach system will need to be charged during the trip, either from the generator or from shore power.
If a gas absorption fridge has not been run for some time they often have small specks of rust and debris in the flue chimney that prevent operation on gas. If the unit fails to light, take off the outside inspection cover and remove the cover at the bottom of the chimney so you can see the lighter. If it is sparking, but failing to light, tap on the chimney to dislodge accumulated rust and then vacuum away all debris. Try this before calling a serviceman and also make sure someone has not shut off the propane at the main tank valve.
I really hate electronic controls on some things
These RV fridges are on example, and I have 2 of those Dometic N64 series-
A few years back we were camped in the mountains when lightning hit near the camper. Aftermath, fridge didn't work. Blew out the board in it..the board has a very sensitive circuit that detects the flame by sensing an extremely low millivolt level from a thermocouple stuck into the flame. No sensing it, no operation. Roughly $150 for a new board and an ice chest needed for the rest of that vacation. When I got the new board, being an electronics guy I figured I'd repair the old board using the new as a guide to troubleshoot. Nope- Dometic changed the board design all around, hopefully to improve EMF surge supression. BTW all this occured with NO connection to AC as there was none in that particular campground, strictly an induced surge from the nearby hit.
Scroll forward, maybe not learning all I could about electronic Dometic fridges I bought one for an RV I planned to build. Well changed my mind and built a cabin on my remote land instead. Put the fridge in it, no AC power on that land.
Well- since the fridge requires power ALL the time, one can't leave it for a week running without a sizeable battery system. Uses very little propane but will suck a typical 100 A Hr RV type battery dead in 3-4 days.
So one can't return the next weekend to marinating steaks and cold beer....
I really sometimes long for old school with a knob and the old bulb type thermostat that operated entirely from pressure induced in a sealed tube working a diaphragm connected to a switch and no electronics/power involved.:drool:
I also had a Dometic roof ac that was electronically controlled. If the lights blinked while you were out you returned to a 100 deg camper because the stupid thing wouldn't restart without a human pressing a button.
Yep electronics have NO place in some stuff.
These RV fridges are on example, and I have 2 of those Dometic N64 series-
A few years back we were camped in the mountains when lightning hit near the camper. Aftermath, fridge didn't work. Blew out the board in it..the board has a very sensitive circuit that detects the flame by sensing an extremely low millivolt level from a thermocouple stuck into the flame. No sensing it, no operation. Roughly $150 for a new board and an ice chest needed for the rest of that vacation. When I got the new board, being an electronics guy I figured I'd repair the old board using the new as a guide to troubleshoot. Nope- Dometic changed the board design all around, hopefully to improve EMF surge supression. BTW all this occured with NO connection to AC as there was none in that particular campground, strictly an induced surge from the nearby hit.
Scroll forward, maybe not learning all I could about electronic Dometic fridges I bought one for an RV I planned to build. Well changed my mind and built a cabin on my remote land instead. Put the fridge in it, no AC power on that land.
Well- since the fridge requires power ALL the time, one can't leave it for a week running without a sizeable battery system. Uses very little propane but will suck a typical 100 A Hr RV type battery dead in 3-4 days.
So one can't return the next weekend to marinating steaks and cold beer....
I really sometimes long for old school with a knob and the old bulb type thermostat that operated entirely from pressure induced in a sealed tube working a diaphragm connected to a switch and no electronics/power involved.:drool:
I also had a Dometic roof ac that was electronically controlled. If the lights blinked while you were out you returned to a 100 deg camper because the stupid thing wouldn't restart without a human pressing a button.
Yep electronics have NO place in some stuff.
2manyrocks
Super Member
- Joined
- Jul 28, 2007
- Messages
- 9,528
I totally agree with Skyco. Some of these newer systems don't function so well in comparison with the more simple systems.
Maybe I'm reading more into one of the OP's questions, but I get the impression that the OP might be asking how long he can run his camper off 12v assuming it's fully charged. RV furnace fan and lights will drain a normal battery pretty much in a day in some climates.
A good read on this is: http://www.amazon.com/Managing-12-V...=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1269202666&sr=8-1 I think is the updated version of the book I have. If I recall right, it discusses when and how to recharge batteries to get the most life out of them particularly as relates to charging with a generator versus charging with the two vehicle, using a battery charger, etc.
Maybe I'm reading more into one of the OP's questions, but I get the impression that the OP might be asking how long he can run his camper off 12v assuming it's fully charged. RV furnace fan and lights will drain a normal battery pretty much in a day in some climates.
A good read on this is: http://www.amazon.com/Managing-12-V...=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1269202666&sr=8-1 I think is the updated version of the book I have. If I recall right, it discusses when and how to recharge batteries to get the most life out of them particularly as relates to charging with a generator versus charging with the two vehicle, using a battery charger, etc.
Last edited:
