Safe way to work under loader.

[Coyote machine]

I never worried about it, considering what there is and isn't to worry about. If I did I'd get a 4x4 post and stick under it.

That's just sheer foolishness. You'd worry about it a lot if a fitting let go or a line burst. And for those who think they could get out of the way fast enough; you'd already be dead or seriously injured by the time you figured out what was happening.

I have propped up my FEL with the bucket removed by using a 2 x 6 and lowering the loader onto it where a bracket would rest on the 2x and keep the FEL from dropping. I like the angle iron braces better though.
Better safe than sorry rather than wishing one had taken adequate precautions. Ask anyone who chose to not wear safety glasses and wishes they had.

 

[CajunRider]

It can be a PITA. Like servicing the air filters or blowing out the radiator and other coolers daily. With an empty load, no bucket or attachment, I don't see it falling fast enough that I couldn't get out of the way. The weight would be minimal anyway compared to loaded. And what could happen? A valve opening or a hose bursting with an empty load? I don't see it.



Nice!!! That is how my friend does it on older equipment that you can't take the loader off easily. Mostly something that will leak down over time, not because it will suddenly break and fall.

I take my loader off (it is EASY) just a as a courtesy for my mechanic.

Farmer Crushed Under Rotary Mower
Here's an example of what could happen.
Death by being pinned is second only rollover in tractor accidents. A couple years ago someone I know lost half his feet when the box blade dropped suddenly.

 

[BufordBoone]

I purchased angle iron TSC today. I'll cut it to fit tomorrow.

Thanks, to all who replied. Your assistance is greatly appreciated.

 

[DuckSlayer1017]

The angle, channel or bracket to block the cylinder from closing would be the OSHA approved method. Whoever said the steel could fail is correct so it does need to be sized properly. However the load required to buckle angle iron say 1/4" thick is way more than the loader weighs (or way more than 10 loaders weight).

 

[rectifier]

Always lower your loader onto your blocking FIRST. Do not trust a block to catch falling equipment as it can slide, bend - a whole lot of things can go wrong. And NEVER work under a load supported only by hydraulics. You can not get out of the way. In a failure situation, hydraulics can move incredibly fast. There will be no orifices or restriction valves in play and the implement will fall just like anything else, at 9.8 meters per second.

I've seen what could have been a lethal hydraulic failure first hand. While baling hay last summer, as I lifted the baler gate, the automatic oiler cracked and burst with no warning. The oiler cycles once every time the gate is lifted to oil the chains, and runs off the hydraulic pressure. It was not even at full pressure and the gate was only 3/4 of the way up. All pressure was lost, fluid sprayed into the sky and the gate came crashing down in a quarter second.

After cursing such an odd and unexpected failure I stood there looking at it and suddenly felt sick. I still feel sick thinking about it today. Despite the fact that the baler features blocking pipes on the rams - just slip them into place - so many times had I leaned into that chamber WITHOUT blocking the rams, to quickly fork out a jam or grease a couple bearings. The speed at which it dropped there would be no way to ever dodge it - I would have been cut in half. That baler doesn't even feature any rubber hose to fail, only solid steel pipe, and I had always trusted it completely, only to see a 1" thick casting shatter under low pressure. I will never trust any hydraulics again, and neither should you.

 

[npalen]

I made a pair of aluminum blocks bored to a tight fit (.001" or so press fit) on the cylinder rods then put in drilled and tapped holes for a bolt on either side of the bored hole. The last operation was splitting each block in half so it could be assembled over the cylinder rod with the bolts clamping it tight. I like this method as the blocks will "clamp" the loader at any elevation. I've done quite a bit of work on the bucket so was handy to clamp with the bucket at a comfortable working height.
Someone asked above about putting a piece of angle iron on one cylinder only but my concern would be forgetting to remove it before lowering the loader. Might twist the loader frame.

 

[GaryM]

The angle iron is what I've always seen at dealers and Home shows where tractors with loaders are on display.

 

[DavesTractor]

The angle iron works well. Better yet is a custom formed piece of deep channel with holes in each end to put a pin or bolt. But angle with some tape and/or zip ties works fine.

As to the poster above that doesn't bother with this safety procedure, you will probably die of old age and never have a loader crash down on you...but in our shop if a guy has that attitude he gets sent home for the day, and if he does it again he is fired. The most likely thing to happen in a shop or at home is not an actual failure of a hose or fitting, but a friend or co-worker inadvertently moving the joystick. It happens often enough to not take the chance in our opinion. And it takes well under 5 minutes, in fact under 1 minute to place the support.

I wish small tractors had the support onboard like a lot of construction equipment. It would cost the manufacturer maybe $5-$10 and would be a selling point.

 

[bcp]

You can make your own deep channel by cutting one narrow side off rectangular tubing.

Bruce

 

[Looking4new]

This is what I do.
View attachment 503035

What is the diameter of the flex pipe on your exhaust?