Salvaging a L345dt / 1720 loader

[rbargeron]

........it seems the link you provided is dead or not working.........

I did some checking about the first link I put in post #6. It was a copy-and-paste like I had used when posting at OTT. It works ok on OTT - but not here on TBN. Post #6 can no longer be edited but I edited the Maine Tractors link in post #7 and it would work once, but on subsequent clicks it too would give a 404 error. After several attempts, the link in post #7 (that now works) was typed in manually without using the "insert" utility. Maybe a web person can tell us what's up?

In post #8, you say "I am going to need a new pto drive gear for the crank shaft , the one I have is very worn". I'm curious about exactly which pto gear it is (there isn't one on the crank). How do you know its worn? If based on advice from the prior owner, it could be vaporware like the idea of a single clutch. But if the pto was acting up somehow, it may need attention - which would be much easier while the tractor is still apart.

Checking parts for the L345 there's was never a single clutch or clutch housing made for it, not to mention the several shafts and parts that would be different.

BTW, the L355ss is a very similar tractor, but with 10 more hp, a single clutch for the pto and a hydraulic shuttle (2 wet clutch packs) for travel direction. Confused yet? Have fun - great project. :thumbsup: Dick B.

 

[DarrellSimpson]

Hi Dick , yes I am confused , and because of that I am going to try not to make any deviations from factory parts in hopes of success with the least amount of problems . The hydraulic pump is mounted with brackets holding it in front of the engine above the front differential , the crankshaft has a long shaft with a sprocket of sorts on the end of it , and the pump is driven with a coupler chain that goes from the sprocket on the crank to the sprocket on the pump , I will post pictures for you , but the crank sprocket's teeth are all worn on one side and leaning or angling over , I will take pics with the brackets and front of engine to hopefully show you what I'm concerned about .

 

[rbargeron]

Hi Darrell,

At least for the dual clutch, it makes sense to keep the original configuration.

I know about those parts that drive the front pump. Look at posts above starting with wtemplar's post #5 - he's dealing with worn parts on his L345, and I am presently helping a friend get his L355ss pump running again.

The pump drive on these tractors is a 4-piece affair. The first section is a part called a "bushing" on the end of the engine crank. Second is shaft-with-sprocket. Third is a 2-row roller chain coupling, and 4th is another sprocket/shaft that connects the pump. There are no lube fittings so these parts all run dry. After 30+ years they can be pretty worn, if not completely shot.

On wtemplar's machine the first section is failed - and the part is complicated and no longer made. Maine Tractor Crossing had a used one when we talked, used ones are very rare.
On my friend's L355 the second section is worn out - we are rehabilitating it by machining for dog-point set screws into the bushing.

If restoring a front pump drive is not possible, there is another option. The loader can be powered instead from the tractor's internal hydraulic system, eliminating the front pump and side tank (which were options). To do this a 4-bolt cap under the seat is replaced with a port block for connecting the hoses (see pic). The loader is not as fast, but it has the same lifting power.

 

[DarrellSimpson]

Hi Dick , The extension on the crank seems to be one piece on my tractor but its still in bad shape , for some reason the sprocket on the pump is still in great shape . I am having a heck of a tough time getting the extension off of the crank , I'm going to drill a hole down the center of the extension so I can use a bearing splitter with a puller and be able to push against the end of the crankshaft .
I am curious what that block is plumbed to in your photo , is it bolted down over a port ? I looked at my tractor and can not picture where that block would be placed .
Is the crank shaft driven pump basically a booster pump ? is it increasing the volume as well as pressure ?
I was sorting parts out today and discovered that all the rods are ruined from the previous owner hammering on the end of the rods with the caps off to get them out of the cylinders , and he really went crazy with beating them to death , the bolts for the caps wont even thread into the rod because the bolt holes are crushed , I sure wish I had noticed that before I got the tractor , I'm almost ready to try a V1702 conversion . The hr. meter stopped at 536 hrs so I have no idea what kind of surprises lay ahead for me
Is there a way to identify what the year is on this tractor ? Thank you..

 

[rbargeron]

I'd say STOP trying to take the sprocket piece off the end of the crankshaft. The spocket is in good enough condition as-is to be used in a chain-type flexible coupling.

BTW your pump drive is only 3 sections, different than on my friend's L355. Yours drives directly off the crank without the first "bushing" section.

The worn sprocket in the picture is still plenty good to turn the pump for a long time. One reason your mating sprocket is in good shape is the torque is relatively low. The teeth are worn away a bit because the micro-rust that forms on the teeth gets shined off when it runs. Unlike a bike chain, the chain wrap doesn't need to pull away as it runs, so it should work fine. Replace the 2-row chain with a new piece and squirt some heavy oil on it occasionally - it will last forever.

The external pump is not a booster system - it is a completely separate additional hydraulic system. The pump turns easy by hand. With the loader assembled and hoses connected an electric drill will turn the pump enough to raise the bucket (empty).

The aluminum port block takes the place of the 4-bolt cap bolted under the left side of the seat. Removing the cap exposes two holes. Oil comes out of one and goes into the other. The port block allows flow to be tapped, going out to a valve and back, powering another use (like a loader).

Regarding the engine parts, I'd talk to Scott at Maine Tractor Crossing (207) 834-1164. They list L345 engine parts, including block, connecting rods, head, etc. Might be a good way to make yours whole again, buying just what it needs.

 

[DarrellSimpson]

Thank you . I had hopes of removing the sprocket so I could remove the crank shaft for the purpose of getting the engine magnafluxed , but maybe I shouldn't be too concerned about it , all the water jacket plugs are still looking looking good . Thanks for the phone number , I will call as soon as I finish measuring the bores for roundness and taper , if the block needs boring I will still need to address the crankshaft removal issues . Maybe If I have too I can remove the crank and front cover together ? hopefully it won't come to that . Thanks .

 

[DarrellSimpson]

Hey Dick , have you seen Walts Tractor parts web page , they have a pump and different kind of sprockets so a guy could fabricate anything . Pump UF84051 . The web page is Loader Pump and Drive Parts---2016. You will have to cut and paste the link .

 

[rbargeron]

It looks like the coupling on your L345 goes directly on the crank spline - without the first section used on the L355. If you decide you need to remove it, try turning the big nut off that holds the pully on - it should push the coupling off as it goes - use a spacer so it pushes while still on the threads. Attached picture is what a L345 crank should look like with the pulley removed.

About the adapters on Walt's Tractor, I haven't seen anything there that matches the Kubota crank splines, which appear to be proprietary. The L355ss I'm working on has 26 splines with an OD of 35mm. It doesn't appear to be a standard spline. The closest I've found described is on a Ford truck 4wd front hub. But not sure the pressure angle is the same. ANSI and ISO spline standards list spline count, OD, and ID but neither 35mm nor 26 spline is a listed style. We need somebody to chime in who knows more about fitting up to non-standard splines.

 

[DarrellSimpson]

I was showing you my possible idea with using that pump and doing away with the original crankshaft sprocket , drilling and tapping the crank pulley and maybe even shorten the snout on the end of the crank shaft , with the pump and bracket that walts has it would be easy to make a bracket to get the pump closer to the engine for a universal coupler or something like the b20 used , or maybe the ford tractor style . I found a picture with what I'm kind of imagining . Maybe a lovejoy coupler .

 

[rbargeron]

There isn't clearance for the pump closer to the engine. Why redesign it?
Rods, pistons, rings & a head job are way more important to whether the machine has a future.