Sanity Check -- 3rd Function Build on a Mahindra 4540

[ak9]

I've found that in pa clay and 20-40rpm I have to clear the dirt away from the hole sometimes ....and found for me a detent type valve has been better.. slamming to stop is something I wouldn't do. With a solenoid valve you'll have to hold the button and this could over heat the electric magnet It would depend on the application too....You might consider a valve like this .

1 Spool 14 GPM Prince WVS11C5C1 Motor Valve | Directional Control Valves | Hydraulic Valves | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

As far as the "switch" for a electric 12 volt dc. sol valve the next one I build This is what I'm using ... I think this will be cool

Champion Power Equipment Wireless Winch Remote Control Kit for 5-lb. or Less ATV/UTV Winches at Tractor Supply Co.

 

[ericm979]

I think what you'd need is a valve where A and B are connected when it's off, and P and T are also. I don't know if that's made but it seems like it ought to be.

yes the pump flow depends on the engine rpm (on the typical open center system) but with less flow the loader's going to be less responsive, and I think that it's more likely that if you try to move the loader while the auger is running that only one will operate. With my Branson at 1800 rpm (pto rpm is 2400) if I move the loader while raising the 3pt, the 3pt stops. With your application it might not be much of a problem if the auger loses drive when you move the loader but it probably depends on the loader valve.

 

[NCFarmLife]

I've found that in pa clay and 20-40rpm I have to clear the dirt away from the hole sometimes ....and found for me a detent type valve has been better.. slamming to stop is something I wouldn't do. With a solenoid valve you'll have to hold the button and this could over heat the electric magnet It would depend on the application too....You might consider a valve like this .

1 Spool 14 GPM Prince WVS11C5C1 Motor Valve | Directional Control Valves | Hydraulic Valves | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

Ugh, yeah... I think AK9 nailed it. After looking into these more - I think this is the way to go. Cheaper, more simple install and looks like it will prevent damage to my implements from abrupt changes in fluid flow.

Back to the drawing board...

 

[ericm979]

If you're going to add a remote, I'd add one with multiple valves and power beyond and make one a motor valve like that one. They make valves that are modular so you can assemble a block of multiple valves with whatever characteristics you want.

 

[N2DFire]

I'm no hydraulic expert - especially on motor spool valves so I'll let the folks that know give you the final say-so about that; however a couple thoughts:
1) As others have said solenoids are not really designed for the kind of continuous operation you're looking to do.

2) Regardless of what size & style of hose and fittings you use, all the fluid still has to pass through the little holes on the subplate & through the valve body itself so don't overthink the minuscule difference in inside diameter between fitting types. That being said don't go plumbing the P & T lines with 1/4" hose either. Short runs (a couple inches through the subplate and valve) of friction loss are acceptable, long ones are not.


As to the choice of grips / switches - I used the John Deer grip for my Kioti build. It's as cheap or cheaper than the other solutions and I think it looks a LOT cleaner. I put relays in line with mine, others have had no trouble working without them. The way I did my relays was overkill because I'm a geek at heart, a couple standard automotive relays hard wired in the system will work just as well.

I have attached the write-up from my build project & you can look through and see what you think for yourself.

Best of luck on your build.

 

[NCFarmLife]

I'm no hydraulic expert - especially on motor spool valves so I'll let the folks that know give you the final say-so about that; however a couple thoughts:
1) As others have said solenoids are not really designed for the kind of continuous operation you're looking to do.

2) Regardless of what size & style of hose and fittings you use, all the fluid still has to pass through the little holes on the subplate & through the valve body itself so don't overthink the minuscule difference in inside diameter between fitting types. That being said don't go plumbing the P & T lines with 1/4" hose either. Short runs (a couple inches through the subplate and valve) of friction loss are acceptable, long ones are not.


As to the choice of grips / switches - I used the John Deer grip for my Kioti build. It's as cheap or cheaper than the other solutions and I think it looks a LOT cleaner. I put relays in line with mine, others have had no trouble working without them. The way I did my relays was overkill because I'm a geek at heart, a couple standard automotive relays hard wired in the system will work just as well.

I have attached the write-up from my build project & you can look through and see what you think for yourself.

Best of luck on your build.

Great writeup Steve! I think I came across your original thread somewhere in my initial searching, because a lot of the pictures looked familiar.

I ended up ditching the solenoids and will be going with a manual version. After I suffered through learning all the new terminology and specs on the Prince valves mentioned earlier, it just made more sense.

I went ahead and have some parts on order already. I plan to do a similar writeup when I'm all done to try to help anyone else that finds themselves on the same journey...

 

[ericm979]

There's a summit hydraulics 3rd function kit that includes a solenoid valve that they say is rated for continual duty. It's a monoblock rather than being mounted on a subplate. Which probably does not affect the duty cycle, just thought it was interesting.