Sawyer Rob
Super Member
Learn how to "properly" sticker and dry your lumber, and you won't have all the stability problems.
Furthermore, there's a HUGE amount of waste to "properly" quarter saw lumber.
SR
Sawmill question about posts/beams.
- Thread starter N80
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Furthermore, there's a HUGE amount of waste to "properly" quarter saw lumber.
SR
Sawyer Rob
Super Member
s219
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I saw loads of Loblolly for posts and beams -- it's a real good structural lumber (one of the SYP species prized for framing lumber) however it will wander if you don't saw it properly and stack/dry it properly. That said, I have great luck framing with green lumber since I can get it up and pinned into place before the wood can wander.
SYP loses quite a bit of moisture and weight within 2-3 weeks at average humidity. I've seen it get down to 25% moisture content after just 3 weeks at 57% humidity in my storage area where I run a dehumidifier.
I have never sawn 4x4 but do lots of 6x6 and larger posts, and various size beams. I tend to reserve smaller trees for posts, or the tops of bigger trees. It means I can make a nice post with the heartwood centered and not have much waste. The larger logs go to better uses such as boards or 2x lumber, but you can certainly plan things to slice off some nice lumber and save the core of the big log for a post.
You may want to setup a toeboard if you don't have one already, as it will help keeping the heartwood centered when the log is tapered. This will greatly improve the yield and quality when sawing posts, especially when using smaller logs. For a dimensional 4x4 (3.5x3.5) you just need a 5" log if you don't mind eased corners.
Unless there is a reason you want 4x4 specifically, consider going up a little in size. It will be more stable and it will probably look better too. A 4x4 can be awful spindly looking as a deck post.
SYP loses quite a bit of moisture and weight within 2-3 weeks at average humidity. I've seen it get down to 25% moisture content after just 3 weeks at 57% humidity in my storage area where I run a dehumidifier.
I have never sawn 4x4 but do lots of 6x6 and larger posts, and various size beams. I tend to reserve smaller trees for posts, or the tops of bigger trees. It means I can make a nice post with the heartwood centered and not have much waste. The larger logs go to better uses such as boards or 2x lumber, but you can certainly plan things to slice off some nice lumber and save the core of the big log for a post.
You may want to setup a toeboard if you don't have one already, as it will help keeping the heartwood centered when the log is tapered. This will greatly improve the yield and quality when sawing posts, especially when using smaller logs. For a dimensional 4x4 (3.5x3.5) you just need a 5" log if you don't mind eased corners.
Unless there is a reason you want 4x4 specifically, consider going up a little in size. It will be more stable and it will probably look better too. A 4x4 can be awful spindly looking as a deck post.
s219
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One other piece of advice about Loblolly -- get the logs to the mill as soon as possible after the tree is felled. This wood loves to develop internal stresses as the logs dry out, and can be a real bucking bronco on the mill when that happens.
OP
N80
Super Member
Thanks guys.
In terms of stickers, I've got most everything on 1x1 stickers that are two feet apart. Posts and 2x lumber are in one big stack outdoors with a tarp just on the top. Planning a separate stack for 2x lumber soon. Pine boards are in a smaller stack in a shed. Oak and ash boards go in my basement at home. So far (several months) I'm not seeing a lot of warping or twisting. Time will tell of course.
The 4x4s are for deck/porch railing not actual posts. Nothing structural. They match the back deck and front porch steps. The actual porch and back deck upright posts are 6x6. For the carport I'm building I've been cutting 6x6 and 4x6 posts.
I made a toe board out of a scissor jack and some angle iron cross pieces. It works very well. Total cost was about $45. The one made by the sawmill company was about $160. Probably better made but maybe not 3x better made.
In terms of stickers, I've got most everything on 1x1 stickers that are two feet apart. Posts and 2x lumber are in one big stack outdoors with a tarp just on the top. Planning a separate stack for 2x lumber soon. Pine boards are in a smaller stack in a shed. Oak and ash boards go in my basement at home. So far (several months) I'm not seeing a lot of warping or twisting. Time will tell of course.
The 4x4s are for deck/porch railing not actual posts. Nothing structural. They match the back deck and front porch steps. The actual porch and back deck upright posts are 6x6. For the carport I'm building I've been cutting 6x6 and 4x6 posts.
I made a toe board out of a scissor jack and some angle iron cross pieces. It works very well. Total cost was about $45. The one made by the sawmill company was about $160. Probably better made but maybe not 3x better made.
s219
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Yeah, WM's toe board is nice but not that nice. I got a motorcycle lift/jack from Amazon for about $65 that does the same thing.
One thing I started doing recently is to strap my stacks of yellow pine, to help it behave while drying. About once a week I check and tighten the straps as the wood shrinks Time will tell if it really works. I have another few months of drying before I dig into that batch of wood and will be curious what the stack does when I take off the straps. I am probably going to wince as I loosen up the buckles...
One thing I started doing recently is to strap my stacks of yellow pine, to help it behave while drying. About once a week I check and tighten the straps as the wood shrinks Time will tell if it really works. I have another few months of drying before I dig into that batch of wood and will be curious what the stack does when I take off the straps. I am probably going to wince as I loosen up the buckles...
OP
N80
Super Member
I wish there was a "saw milling" subforum on this site. It seems to make sense. There are a number of us here who have one, they are becoming very popular, and for me my tractor is an integral part of the process from skidding to loading the mill. I requested this a while back but got no reply.
timbatrader
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My experience is in New Zealand with Radiatia pine here commercial mills cut 4x4's centered around the pith as that is the most profitable way to use was would otherwise be very low grade timber if the pith is close to centre the post doesn't move to much probably a bit of propeller twist but otherwise good the worst posable post will be one with corewood on one side and higher density sap wood the other side corewood shrinks at about twice the rate of sapwood and having different shrinkage rates in one stick of timber is what causes to pull out of shape when it dries
