Scope problem

[RobertBrown]

I will probably stick with 150g bullets.

:mur::mur::mur::smiley_aafz::anyone:
I'm done

 

[sshaw]

I will probably stick with 150g bullets.

Bullet weight should have the most impact on whether your rifle likes a particular ammo load, due to barrel oscillations and bullet stabilization. So, you should definitely vary bullet weights to see if that helps. If you find that a 180 gr bullet, or a lighter bullet, shoots accurately in your rifle, then you will have a need for different weight bullets. There should be virtually no down side to shooting your deer with different weight bullets at the ranges you're talking about.

Or, as others have said, if the rifle is on target as-is with the first shot from a cold barrel, then just quit messing with it and don't worry about second and third shots from a hot barrel. You shouldn't need more than one shot under most circumstances anyway.

 

[RobertN]

I dunno... I have shot 150 gr factory soft point, and 150gr Speer spire points, from Rem-700 30-06 with sport weight barrel, .308 from Rem700 Varmint weight barrel, and 99 Savage in 300 Savage(case 308 is based on) all successfully.

I know different length barrel, and especially twist makes a difference. But those rifles shot plain off the shelf ammo great in 150gr. And accurate handloads in 150gr were super easy. Although, the heavy barrel 308 did like 168gr Sierra BTHP Match Kings and 165gr BTHP Game Kings...

Certainly wouldn't hurt anything to put a $30 box of 165gr thru his rifle.

:mur::mur::mur::smiley_aafz::anyone:
I'm done

 

[N80]

:mur::mur::mur::smiley_aafz::anyone:
I'm done

Yea, I'm not sure I get your frustration. Is bullet weight the only variable? Does it not make sense to control at least a few variables? If so, why not bullet weight? I mean is a Federal Premium with a 150g Nosler partition bullet going to shoot exactly the same as a Remington 150g Core-Lokt? Is there something inherently wrong with a 150g bullet? (I have a couple of truck loads of dead deer, pigs and coyotes that would suggest otherwise......)

And if I'm clearly too dense to get this, why not suggest exactly which bullets you think I should try, how many different brands, how many boxes and just why those choices make more sense than just trying a few different brands of 150g bullets......instead of being condescending about it? (And maybe keep the total cost of these bullets below the value of the gun.)

 

[N80]

One shot, one month later than the last one (to make sure the barrel was cool ) just right of dead center. So, three first shots in a stone cold barrel for about a 2" group at 100 yards (using a 4x scope). Total size of 8 shot group including '2nd' and '3rd' shots was about 5.5".

Conclusion: Reasonably accurate first shot gun at 100 yards.

Future: I may modify the stock to relieve the barrel contact point at the end of the stock and see if that alleviates the heat problem......once .308 ammo is available again.

 

[whistlepig]

Yes, it might be worth getting a torque driver. They are not expensive but the ones in the link are not adjustable. Looks like you have to have one for each setting. I suspect the adjustable ones are pricey. But it sounds like the range or specs is pretty small so I'd probably only need a couple.

I did check the barrel on the wood stock. As mentioned, there is a contact point about an inch from the fore end. Otherwise, no contact anywhere else.

I think I'll definitely try what Robert mentioned above about proper torque on the synth stock, shoot a few rounds and then relieve the pressure point at the end and shoot a few. I would prefer not to modify the wood stock.

Have you free floated the barrel on whatever stock you may have on this gun now?

 

[N80]

No, that is what I was mentioning above. These guns are tiny and have very thin barrels. It is free floated all the way out to the end of the stock where there is a contact point presumably to keep the barrels from 'whipping'. This may be the contact area where the change in heat causes a change in the point of impact. At some point I may file this down so the barrel is completely free floating. Might help, might make things worse. If it makes things worse I have another stock or I can just build the contact point back up with fiberglass of something.

 

[studor]

The more I read, the more I think you do have a bedding problem. Your last post of free floating the entire barrel is a good start. If that does not work it does not cost anything and can easily be replaced with a little bedding compound. I have a Browning .338 that went from 2" groups to less than 1/2" by bedding the recoil lug and floating the barrel -- JMHO

 

[N80]

I will definitely give it a try. Fortunately my daughter has adopted the virtually identical 7mm-08 Model 7 (which is very accurate) so I have time to work on this .308.