Scored a one shank ripper-subsoiler

[bullbreaker]

What's the tab for that's hanging out the rear with the hole it it? That's a stout piece!

I believe its for a stand to store or for easier way to attach to 3 pt.

Boone

 

[sixdogs]

What's the tab for that's hanging out the rear with the hole it it? That's a stout piece!

It's for a stand to hold the thing up. It's so heavy and awkward I needed a better plan to hook it up. The idea is from a photo of a similar item I saw--see attached photo--ignore the circle--it was for the welding shop to make new end pieces. And it is stout--I'm upping my guess to 250 lbs.

Oops--just saw your post, bullbreaker--after I posted this.

 

[gpflepsen]

That's a good idea. I'd just knock it over or find it on the side when I went to use it!

 

[jenkinsph]

I made one from scratch very similar to this about 35 years ago or so. Really helps to break through the crust and hardpan, pulled this with a 3020 with good results. I didn't have a stand for mine I just stuck it in the ground to park it.

 

[sixdogs]

..... I didn't have a stand for mine I just stuck it in the ground to park it.

In one of the owner's manuals--Deere I think--that is the suggested method of parking it.
In another of the owner's manuals--maybe Worksaver--it has a 21st century troubleshooting section with answers to common problems that laywers have written. For the "dry soil" ptoblem, the lawyer answer is "wait for rain". We're doomed.

 

[sixdogs]

All done.
Picked up a quart of real John Deere acrylic enamel from the dealer, painted it in two pieces, and assembled it. A little grease on the shank at the top.
Here's a photo of it assembled and painted. Also is a photo of my setup for the decal and then the finished product.

You can also see the side plates I had made with the dual Cat I and II pins in place. This way I can use it for my Deere 5520 as well as use the lower pins (for ground clearance) for my Kubota L4300 so I can load on my trailer for doing gardens. Not sure if the L4300 will work but I only need to go 12 or so inches deep so it should. The little tab on the back is for the parking stand.

 

[lj04]

What determines the depth you need to go?

 

[bullbreaker]

Sixdogs, Nice finishing work on that beast of a sub-soiler ! :thumbsup:
Do you remember what size shearbolt that thing takes ?

Boone

 

[sixdogs]

What determines the depth you need to go?

**Well, you go to the depth of the "plow pan" where the compaction is and that tends to be 12"-14". Experts say to dig a hole for the depth of the plow pan to check but for a few acres and gardens it doesn't matter.
The old rule was maybe 20" deep but newer thinking suggests that depth does more damage than good by inverting the soil layer.
These are also good for ripping along the edge of the woods to keep trees from stealing crop nutrients. I'm going to rip out some smaller stumps too.



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Sixdogs, Nice finishing work on that beast of a sub-soiler !
Do you remember what size shearbolt that thing takes ?

Boone/bullbreaker

**I think it's 3/4" but maybe 5/8". The thing is not only heavy but the most awkward piece of equipment I ever fooled with.
The stand makes it OK but it's still like trying to hook up a woodstove to a 3 pt hitch, however.

 

[bullbreaker]

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Boone/bullbreaker

**I think it's 3/4" but maybe 5/8". The thing is not only heavy but the most awkward piece of equipment I ever fooled with.
The stand makes it OK but it's still like trying to hook up a woodstove to a 3 pt hitch, however.

Thats a cool piece no dought ! :thumbsup:
When you use it I'd go slow,hang on to wheel with both hands,and also you might consider wearing a motocycle helmet. Just in case you snag on to something solid an your shearbolt does'nt give! :laughing: :thumbsup:
Might even consider wheelie wheels on tractor.

Boone