Grading Scraper blade - how wide?

[Canuck_49]

Since I bought my 3510 5 years ago I have never used the blade.

If it's a 7' do you want to sell it?

 

[MicroPilot]

Like I said, "might be O.K. in the snow".

What kind of plowing were you talkin' about. Or were you asking the difference between plowing snow and dozing dirt?

Dirt, as in I plowed the field. Same kinds of stresses that you would incur using a scraper blade in the dirt.

 

[polo1665]

Dirt, as in I plowed the field. Same kinds of stresses that you would incur using a scraper blade in the dirt.

Now I see where you are coming from. The quote below is what I was referring to. Somehow attaching the back blade to the FEL loader arms is how I read it. I doubt you would do something like that with a two bottom plow.

Just thinking about a scraper blade some more...you could put it up front with a 3 point attachment plate, (rotate it around 180 degrees and angle it). Then have more control using the blade...curl, etc.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/142456-3-point-hitch-loader-arms.html

Hmmm...

 

[chiknfrmr]

I have a Mahindra 4110. I'm shopping for a rear blade that I expect mostly will be used for snow, as I have a 72" box blade for grading. I have been told an 8' blade would be best for covering the wheel tracks when set at an angle, but some of the manufacturer's comments I have read recommend a 50+ hp tractor for an 8' blade. Do you think my 41 hp Mahindra has adequate power for an 8' blade? Thanks in advance for your replies.

 

[polo1665]

I have a Mahindra 4110. I'm shopping for a rear blade that I expect mostly will be used for snow, as I have a 72" box blade for grading. I have been told an 8' blade would be best for covering the wheel tracks when set at an angle, but some of the manufacturer's comments I have read recommend a 50+ hp tractor for an 8' blade. Do you think my 41 hp Mahindra has adequate power for an 8' blade? Thanks in advance for your replies.

I would think you would be fine for moving snow and even some dirt work with your tractors HP. Of course there are a lot of others on this board that would know a lot more than me. Here's a link to Landpride's specs. Good luck.

http://www.landpride.com/ari/attach/lp/public/specs/301-131s.pdf

Mark

 

[jbe]

I have a Branson 2810. What size box blade would you all recommend for it.
I will be doing light grading work and light snow removal and using it as counter weight for the fel. I am torn between 5 and 6 footer.

 

[chiknfrmr]

i'm no expert...but it was recommended to me to have one that is as wide as the wheels of the tractor, so i got a six footer and it has worked well for me. a local dealer could probably tell you if you have enough pto hp for a 6'.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I have a Branson 2810. What size box blade would you all recommend for it.
I will be doing light grading work and light snow removal and using it as counter weight for the fel. I am torn between 5 and 6 footer.

Safe bet is the same width as your tractor, maybe 6" wider. I personally would purchase only a medium or heavy duty box blade. So you should be looking for one that weighs 500-850lbs in my opinion. Remember, the heavier the better for grading purposes.

 

[AGTtactical]

The whole point of having a scraper blade is the ability to angle it at 45 degrees and pull material in from the edge of the road. The greater the angle, the better it is able to do this without spilling material to the sides of the road. If you don't need such an angle, you are likely better using a land plane or box blade. So, if your tractor is 72" wide, a 72" wide scraper isn't going to cut it if you ever want to use it at a good angle, because anytime you angle it at all, it won't cover your tracks. In fact, as noted by another guy in this thread, even an 84" blade won't cover your tracks...84" blade at 45 degrees is only 59.4" wide. Neither will a 96" blade..its only 67.9" wide at 45 degrees. This is why good blades have an offset, so you can swing it out past your right tire when pulling rock or dirt into the center. The RB37 84" blade can offset 26"...so with a 72" wide tractor, at 45 degrees and 59.4" effective blade with (5'), you can swing the blade out past the right tire by about a foot. Assuming a 10' wide single land driveway, I wouldn't go wider because I don't want to dump material past road center anyway. That's 5' to center, so a 5' effective blade width is perfect! If your road is 12', you may want a 96"...it will give you more reach on the edges of your roads. .

 

[Gator6x4]

Don't buy a scrape blade you cannot rotate 180 degrees after the blade is mounted on the tractor. People use the back side of the scrape blade to level with. Nothing like owing a tool that you are only able to utilize 50 percent of it capabilities.

 

[oosik]

My 2009 Kubota M6040 weighs - 10,100 pounds - when the grapple & rear blade are attached. I have 1550 pounds of Rim Guard in the rear tires. My rear tires are 80" - outside to outside. I uses my Rhino 950 - 96" & 1100 pounds - for both winter & summer driveway maintenance.

When offset and angled - this rear blade will still not, completely, cover the width of the tires PLUS a descent offset. This setting is for both snow removal and driveway ditch maintenance. However, it has, over the 4 1/2 years I've had it, proven to do the job. For ditch maintenance I use - offset, angle & tilt.

Offset, angled and tilted, it will clean the driveway ditches and allow the tractor to remain on firm, level ground as I putt down the driveway. Offset and angled the tractor is on firm, level ground and snow is bladed completely off the driving surface.

Get out a pencil, paper, protractor & ruler and do make some graphic drawings to determine your needs. You may be surprised how much "overall working width" is lost when a rear blade is properly angled.

The "overall working width" of my 96" rear blade drops to 75" when set at a 45 degree angle.

 

[bcp]

Multiply the blade width by 0.7 to be very close to the 45 degree width.

Bruce

 

[oosik]

BINGO - right on bcp. Something didn't ring true on my measurements - post # 31. Went back and rechecked. At a 45 degree angle my rear blade will cut a path more like 67" to 69". I know, it's a rude awakening when plowing snow. Sooooo - I would cut it back to the next notch, about 35 degrees. The path widens but unless conditions are ideal - very little joy in plowing much snow. 45 degrees or close to that is ideal in my case.

 

[AGTtactical]

For 30 degree angle, multiply by 0.9, so a 7' blade would be 6.3' wide at 30 degrees.

 

[AGTtactical]

I know, it's a rude awakening when plowing snow. Sooooo - I would cut it back to the next notch, about 35 degrees. The path widens but unless conditions are ideal - very little joy in plowing much snow. 45 degrees or close to that is ideal in my case.

Never used it in snow, but you are seeing a much better improvement in moving snow off to one side at 45 vs. 35? Good to hear...that sure seems to be the case for gravel.

 

[AGTtactical]

Don't buy a scrape blade you cannot rotate 180 degrees after the blade is mounted on the tractor. People use the back side of the scrape blade to level with. Nothing like owing a tool that you are only able to utilize 50 percent of it capabilities.

What model are you talking about? I don't know of any heavy duty blades with variable tilt, angle, and offset positions that you can also turn it completely backwards without unbolting everything.

 

[oosik]

AGTtactical - Both my Land Pride GS3596, which I sold - too light weight @ 565# and my current Rhino 950 @ 96", reverse easily. Pull one pin and LOOK OUT - here it comes.

I use the Rhino, reversed, for smoothing & leveling dirt and snow plowing. Reverse is the only way to go when the driveway has not frozen up, hard as a rock, yet.

The Rhino is completely manual, 96" & 1100 pounds. First time I pull the pin and reversed the blade - tractor was on a slight side slope. Here comes the blade - swinging all on its own. I was VERY lucky. I had the blade/3-point fully raised. Try as I might - I could not stop the rotation. Before I realize what was going to happen - the blade knocked me down and swished right over the top of me. Any lower and I would have been sliced salami( maybe, chopped pork - ha, ha ). Hey, I'm 230# and no weakling. It simply pushed me across the driveway and knocked me down.

Just another dumb learning experience that I survived. I couldn't figure why it took off so fast - all on its own. Then I figured it out. The manual angle adjustment mechanism is all on one side of the blade. That side happened to be the high side in my first adventure. The fact that the added weight was on the high side, the blade was slightly tilted and everything was on a slight slope - that's all it took. I'm a tiny bit wiser and a WHOLE LOT more careful now.

 

[AGTtactical]

Wow, thanks oosik. You like the 8' length? Your tractor is probably 80"...mine is only 72"...would you still go with an 8 blade'? 8' is only 5.6' at 45, so its still not as wide as my tracks. I mainly plan to use it to pull gravel from the side of the road back into the road where it should be, and to do that well a 45 degree angle really helps. The wider blade would help me reach further out with the offset. Harder to do with a 7'...but a 7' won't dump gravel past center of the road. I have a top-n-tilt on the tractor...maybe I could raise the inboard left side (road center side) of the 8' enough that the left side of the blade edge is lifted off the ground so gravel drops off there instead of the end of the blade.

 

[thekkfan]

What model are you talking about? I don't know of any heavy duty blades with variable tilt, angle, and offset positions that you can also turn it completely backwards without unbolting everything.

My 7 footer goes all the way around (360') as well.

Taylor Pittsburgh Taylor Way 7' 55 Series Medium Duty Rear Blade 55-RMB-84

 

[AGTtactical]

Thanks thekkfan. Good prices on those too.