Scrub removal question

   / Scrub removal question #11  
Oh man, been there, that stuff is tough. I got it everywhere. I just set my ZTR as high as it’ll go and mow it like anything else. Of course if you don’t have a ZTR that’s not helpful, but if you do then each tree like that is about a 6 second job. I haven’t tried using a regular push mower but that might work too. I’ve cleared some really nasty stuff by sacrificing a cheap push mower.
 
   / Scrub removal question
  • Thread Starter
#12  
If you get one of those cutter blades for your weed eater, do you have a problem with it wrapping around the shaft of the weedeater? That’s basically what happened when I tried to use my weedeater on it that was loaded with regular weed eater line. (.095”)

thanks
 
   / Scrub removal question #13  
If you get one of those cutter blades for your weed eater, do you have a problem with it wrapping around the shaft of the weedeater? That’s basically what happened when I tried to use my weedeater on it that was loaded with regular weed eater line. (.095”)

thanks
I'll do as much as possible with a tractor and rotory mower but if you have the grit to wade in with a weed eater,here's a way to minimize stuff wrapping around shaft. Fabricating from good steel and heat treating extend's blade life between sharpenings and replacement but simple hardware store L-brackets with a leg ground sharp works. Fasten 2 to top of spool 180* accross from one anorther for balance so that anything that get's inside is sliced soon as it wrap's around shaft enough to resist. You'll still have to clear shaft occasionally but not near as much as usual. Make extra sets to make it easy to switch out because once they dull or hit wire everything wrap's around shaft.
 
   / Scrub removal question #14  
I'll do as much as possible with a tractor and rotory mower but if you have the grit to wade in with a weed eater,here's a way to minimize stuff wrapping around shaft. Fabricating from good steel and heat treating extend's blade life between sharpenings and replacement but simple hardware store L-brackets with a leg ground sharp works. Fasten 2 to top of spool 180* accross from one anorther for balance so that anything that get's inside is sliced soon as it wrap's around shaft enough to resist. You'll still have to clear shaft occasionally but not near as much as usual. Make extra sets to make it easy to switch out because once they dull or hit wire everything wrap's around shaft.
Attaching a sharpened L bracket to a trimmer head sounds risky - I can't envision your mounting? Can you post a pic of your setup?

Most of the cutter heads are three blade hardened steel or a circular carbide blade attached to the head directly.

Here's the Stihl brush cutter https://www.stihlusa.com/products/trimmers-and-brushcutters/trimmer-heads-and-blades/brushknife/

I have both the triple brush cutter and 12" carbide for my Tanaka, and for most brambles or vines to a 1/4" I use the .105 line then the three blade if stuff is really thick. Rarely do I install the 12" carbide blades anymore.
 
   / Scrub removal question #15  
To say saw blades and brush cutters are risky when attached to a string trimmer is putting it mildly. That's one reason"My setup" is long gone and if I have briars and brush my tractor can't cut they are left to grow until I hire someone. ;)
 
   / Scrub removal question #16  
To say saw blades and brush cutters are risky when attached to a string trimmer is putting it mildly. That's one reason"My setup" is long gone and if I have briars and brush my tractor can't cut they are left to grow until I hire someone. ;)

How often do you contact your legs with a string trimmer while running string?
 
   / Scrub removal question #17  
View attachment 723366
I am trying to clean up my land and I have a lot of trees that have these vines around the bottom of the tree. I think it is called catbrier. I have used roundup and Remedy without a lot of success. It seems to kill it back but then it comes back. I can’t really get it with my rotary cutter because the ground typically has a mound near the tree and also you can’t get real close with the cutter. I have tried my Stihl weedeater but the vines are very tough and the weedeater doesn’t seem to work real well.

Anyone have any suggestions? I thought if there was someway to cut this to the ground that maybe the remedy would work better when new growth appears next spring. Thanks for any suggestions.




Does
Ask your county extension agent about effective control treatments.
 
   / Scrub removal question #18  
How often do you contact your legs with a string trimmer while running string?
Once was enough to convince me to pay attention so it didn't happen again. :cautious:
 
   / Scrub removal question #19  
You can get a brushcutter blade for the Stihl if its a reasonably powerful unit. That stuff looks like a blade would chop it up well.
I agree. The 3 point brush cutter blade will annihilate that. Or use a canvas / nylon towing belt and loop it around the bush / stump etc and pull with tractor / car. Never fails.
 
 
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