Scrub removal question

[AlbertC]

I am trying to clean up my land and I have a lot of trees that have these vines around the bottom of the tree. I think it is called catbrier. I have used roundup and Remedy without a lot of success. It seems to kill it back but then it comes back. I can’t really get it with my rotary cutter because the ground typically has a mound near the tree and also you can’t get real close with the cutter. I have tried my Stihl weedeater but the vines are very tough and the weedeater doesn’t seem to work real well.

Anyone have any suggestions? I thought if there was someway to cut this to the ground that maybe the remedy would work better when new growth appears next spring. Thanks for any suggestions.




Does

 

[ericm979]

You can get a brushcutter blade for the Stihl if its a reasonably powerful unit. That stuff looks like a blade would chop it up well.

 

[Carl_NH]

I second ericm suggestion getting a brush cutter blade first, however they can get tangled up and wrap around the shaft which is a PIA.

Or rent one of these two type machines if you have a lot of area to clear where your rotary cutter cannot.

Walk Behind Brush Cutter | Sunbelt Rentals

https://www.fdlrental.com/shop/dr-trimmer-mower-grass-line/

 

[jeff9366]

In Florida we call your sticker bush Smilax.

I have reasonable success spraying it two or three times with Roundup/Glycophospate with a Suficant added. Without the surficant those shiny leaves defeat the herbicide.

Roundup is almost entirely foliar. I use Roundup because if the weather is dry the tree roots will not be affected.

With 2-4d if you spray the Smilax liberally, then get unexpected rain, the tree roots could be affected.

 

[ponytug]

I would try a triangular metal blade for the Stihl. Sharpen it before you start, and periodically thereafter. I have had good success with it on other tough weeds. They also make circular saw type blades that may also work.

All the best,

Peter

 

[crashz]

Could you pull it out with a toothbar on your loader or Ratchet Rake? Even grab it with a landscape rake, pull it out them mow it to chop it up?

 

[Gee Ray]

I have had success with the "ice melting" propane torch that will attach to a BBQ grill sized propane tank. Just remember you are wanting to heat up the plant until the water in the cells turns to steam and bursts the cell wall. My son wants to burn it up with the torch which you can do if you want. I just want it dead. Look for a torch with a long hose and then you can tie the bottle on a hand truck with a bungee and move it into the woods with ease.

I got one from Northern Tool. Shop carefully the prices are all over the place.

 

[oosik]

I have a BIG Stihl - FS350. I have two blades for tough growth. A metal tri-lobed blade and a head with three free swinging blades. The OEM blades are nylon. I had the local metal shop make high carbon steel blades to replace the nylon.

The head with the steel blades will easily go thru 2" pine trees. The tri-lobed blade would handle your brush also.

Bigger cutter - better blade.

 

[ponytug]

I have had success with the "ice melting" propane torch that will attach to a BBQ grill sized propane tank. Just remember you are wanting to heat up the plant until the water in the cells turns to steam and bursts the cell wall. My son wants to burn it up with the torch which you can do if you want. I just want it dead. Look for a torch with a long hose and then you can tie the bottle on a hand truck with a bungee and move it into the woods with ease.

I got one from Northern Tool. Shop carefully the prices are all over the place.

I used that to remove poison hemlock here. I found that it worked best on days when the vegetation was wet, either from rain, or recent rain. The steam cooked and killed it better than anything else. On dry days, it just kind of smoked the plants without killing them.

500,000BTU torch on sale for about $19 ($35) at HarborFreight, with igniter, but cheaper without the igniter.

All the best,

Peter

 

[JethroB]

View attachment 723366
I am trying to clean up my land and I have a lot of trees that have these vines around the bottom of the tree. I think it is called catbrier. I have used roundup and Remedy without a lot of success. It seems to kill it back but then it comes back. I can’t really get it with my rotary cutter because the ground typically has a mound near the tree and also you can’t get real close with the cutter. I have tried my Stihl weedeater but the vines are very tough and the weedeater doesn’t seem to work real well.

Anyone have any suggestions? I thought if there was someway to cut this to the ground that maybe the remedy would work better when new growth appears next spring. Thanks for any suggestions.

That’s some nasty stuff for those not familiar with it. Think of a ball of thorny rose stems or green barbed wire. Very few leaves sometimes which helps it ambush you.

 

[PuffyC]

Oh man, been there, that stuff is tough. I got it everywhere. I just set my ZTR as high as it’ll go and mow it like anything else. Of course if you don’t have a ZTR that’s not helpful, but if you do then each tree like that is about a 6 second job. I haven’t tried using a regular push mower but that might work too. I’ve cleared some really nasty stuff by sacrificing a cheap push mower.

 

[AlbertC]

If you get one of those cutter blades for your weed eater, do you have a problem with it wrapping around the shaft of the weedeater? That’s basically what happened when I tried to use my weedeater on it that was loaded with regular weed eater line. (.095”)

thanks

 

[jaxs]

If you get one of those cutter blades for your weed eater, do you have a problem with it wrapping around the shaft of the weedeater? That’s basically what happened when I tried to use my weedeater on it that was loaded with regular weed eater line. (.095”)

thanks

I'll do as much as possible with a tractor and rotory mower but if you have the grit to wade in with a weed eater,here's a way to minimize stuff wrapping around shaft. Fabricating from good steel and heat treating extend's blade life between sharpenings and replacement but simple hardware store L-brackets with a leg ground sharp works. Fasten 2 to top of spool 180* accross from one anorther for balance so that anything that get's inside is sliced soon as it wrap's around shaft enough to resist. You'll still have to clear shaft occasionally but not near as much as usual. Make extra sets to make it easy to switch out because once they dull or hit wire everything wrap's around shaft.

 

[Carl_NH]

I'll do as much as possible with a tractor and rotory mower but if you have the grit to wade in with a weed eater,here's a way to minimize stuff wrapping around shaft. Fabricating from good steel and heat treating extend's blade life between sharpenings and replacement but simple hardware store L-brackets with a leg ground sharp works. Fasten 2 to top of spool 180* accross from one anorther for balance so that anything that get's inside is sliced soon as it wrap's around shaft enough to resist. You'll still have to clear shaft occasionally but not near as much as usual. Make extra sets to make it easy to switch out because once they dull or hit wire everything wrap's around shaft.

Attaching a sharpened L bracket to a trimmer head sounds risky - I can't envision your mounting? Can you post a pic of your setup?

Most of the cutter heads are three blade hardened steel or a circular carbide blade attached to the head directly.

Here's the Stihl brush cutter https://www.stihlusa.com/products/trimmers-and-brushcutters/trimmer-heads-and-blades/brushknife/

I have both the triple brush cutter and 12" carbide for my Tanaka, and for most brambles or vines to a 1/4" I use the .105 line then the three blade if stuff is really thick. Rarely do I install the 12" carbide blades anymore.

 

[jaxs]

To say saw blades and brush cutters are risky when attached to a string trimmer is putting it mildly. That's one reason"My setup" is long gone and if I have briars and brush my tractor can't cut they are left to grow until I hire someone.

 

[4570Man]

To say saw blades and brush cutters are risky when attached to a string trimmer is putting it mildly. That's one reason"My setup" is long gone and if I have briars and brush my tractor can't cut they are left to grow until I hire someone.

How often do you contact your legs with a string trimmer while running string?

 

[jyoutz]

View attachment 723366
I am trying to clean up my land and I have a lot of trees that have these vines around the bottom of the tree. I think it is called catbrier. I have used roundup and Remedy without a lot of success. It seems to kill it back but then it comes back. I can’t really get it with my rotary cutter because the ground typically has a mound near the tree and also you can’t get real close with the cutter. I have tried my Stihl weedeater but the vines are very tough and the weedeater doesn’t seem to work real well.

Anyone have any suggestions? I thought if there was someway to cut this to the ground that maybe the remedy would work better when new growth appears next spring. Thanks for any suggestions.




Does

Ask your county extension agent about effective control treatments.

 

[jaxs]

How often do you contact your legs with a string trimmer while running string?

Once was enough to convince me to pay attention so it didn't happen again.

 

[anothernewbiefarmer]

You can get a brushcutter blade for the Stihl if its a reasonably powerful unit. That stuff looks like a blade would chop it up well.

I agree. The 3 point brush cutter blade will annihilate that. Or use a canvas / nylon towing belt and loop it around the bush / stump etc and pull with tractor / car. Never fails.