Sea Foam in hydraulic sys

   / Sea Foam in hydraulic sys #21  
As I said in the other thread, I know that there is equipment that will remove the water from the oil, been there, done that and seen it work. You can also purchase reprocessed oil now from most of the major oil companies, I am sure that oil has probably seen water somewhere long before it was returned to the processing center. I dont think it is even a question of if you can remove water from the oil, but instead of a questions of is it feasible or cost effective when you are only dealing with 5-10-20 gal or like amounts of oil.

The part about atmospheric pressure and the boiling point of water is valid, we learned we could boil water in the palm of our hand in grade school science class. All you need is a air tight container and a vaccum pump and you can lower the boiling point of water to ambient temperature. The question would be, since the oil and water is mixed, will lowering the boiling point reduce the chemical conversions that take place in the emulsified mixture.
Oil is made up of all kinds of hydrocarbons, H+C, Hydrogen and carbon, and water is H2O, hydrogen and oxgen. Hydrogen (cation +) is very corrosive and is only controlled when mixed with other anionic (-) compounds. I dont have a science degree to tell how mixing the oil and water will change the chemical makeup or exchange atoms to form some other compound, but it does happen. Water and oil, extreme cavitation, emulsifications, heating and cooling, I think I would just go ahead and buy new oil and be done with it rather than take a chance with my expensive equipment trying to save a few bucks. If you have access to the right equipment to filter the oil and remove the water, by all means take advantage of it and save a few bucks. If you dont have access to the proper equipment, then my advise is stop trying to reinvent the wheel an risking your expensive equipment trying to save a few bucks.
 
   / Sea Foam in hydraulic sys #22  
Muddstopper with something like a backhoe it could take $500 worth of hydraulic fluid to get the water out of the system by just draining and refilling.

I am into this issue with our JD 310B backhoe. After replacing 15 gallons and the filters twice I still have moisture in the system so I dumped in two cans of Trans Tune Sea Foam today and ran range of motion moves on all cylinders on the unit for about one hour. It will take three more cans since it is a 20 gallon system I guess.

Water keeps getting pushed to the transmission sump. I can pull the plug and let out a few ounces and the first will be clear water so far.

NAPA has it on sale for $6.71 a can for most of April thankfully.:thumbsup:
 
   / Sea Foam in hydraulic sys #23  
I too have a moisture problem in My beaver. It sat outside with a cracked shifter boot. I have drained and replaced thR fluid three times now and still have the milky residue in the sump. I was thinking about adding some diesel to it, letting it run for a while and draining again... Should I try some seafoam? Anyone had a similar situation? I'd like to get this resolved before tieing in my new loader hydraulics
 
   / Sea Foam in hydraulic sys #24  
I too have a moisture problem in My beaver. It sat outside with a cracked shifter boot. I have drained and replaced thR fluid three times now and still have the milky residue in the sump. I was thinking about adding some diesel to it, letting it run for a while and draining again... Should I try some seafoam? Anyone had a similar situation? I'd like to get this resolved before tieing in my new loader hydraulics

Freakingstang diesel will not help remove the water and you do need to get the source of water intake fixed and current water removed before connecting the loader as you stated. The Trans Tune version of Sea Foam (about the same as regular Sea Foam if not the same) is labeled for HYDRAULIC system use.

On our BH a drain and refill/with new filters takes about 8 gallons BUT the system holds 20 gallons. We overfilled this last time and will do one more drain down if 5 cans of Trans Tune does not clear the water completely after 8 hours of working the hoe.

Note I have only added two cans and worked the BH a little over one hour. When I get a few more hours on it I will check for moisture in fluid then add another can if needed. The Sea Foam is good to clean the valve bodies, etc and is not just for removing water. Before I work the BH again will plan to pull the drain plug and see if more water has formed or been pushed from the other 12 gallons of fluid spaces back to the transmission case. Being only able to drain 40% of the fluid is a limiting factor in our case. Making sure all of the cylinders as much as possible are in a closed state means more can be drained in our case but with a backhoe it is not possible to have all cylinders in a closed state in our case.
 
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   / Sea Foam in hydraulic sys #25  
I've got the water source problem fixed. Just trying to get the milky residue out of the system. I've flushed it three times but still seeing the milky stuff in the case bottom
 
   / Sea Foam in hydraulic sys #26  
When I am able to get back to working on our land clearing project I will report back if I can see any value of Sea Foam usage in this type of problem.:thumbsup:
 
   / Sea Foam in hydraulic sys #27  
I too have a moisture problem in My beaver. It sat outside with a cracked shifter boot. I have drained and replaced thR fluid three times now and still have the milky residue in the sump. I was thinking about adding some diesel to it, letting it run for a while and draining again... Should I try some seafoam? Anyone had a similar situation? I'd like to get this resolved before tieing in my new loader hydraulics

turn a 5g bucket over the shifter to keep water out.

for now, I'd dump in a few quarts of 90% rubbing alcohol.. cheap 99 cent walmart kind.. then add in a quart of diesel... then run it around till warm, then drain.

the diesel is just there to thin the mix, and help cut any emulsion stuck to the walls still holding entrained moisture.. the alcohol is a polar solvent.. water is polar.. and the alcohol will disolve the water and carry it in soloution, ( not suspension or emulsion ), when you drain it. seafoam isn't much mor ethan pale oil ( mineral oil ), naptha, and alcohol.. and you could make your own if you wanted...

the alcohol and diesel mix for me always works. if it's a dirty sump.. i sometimes add in a 3$ quart of walmart cheapy type F atf too.. lots of detergents...

soundguy
 
   / Sea Foam in hydraulic sys #28  
Today I had a steel line fitting start to leaking very bad after replacing the blown O-ring on the valve body that attaches to the transmission case on our JD BH.

I had to drop both hydraulic filters to get the line off and check out the cause. While I was under there I pulled the drain plug for the third time checking for water and again did get some pure water but not as much as before and that was after adding two cans of of Sea Foam last week.

After the leak and dropping the filters we had to add five more gallons making it a total of 22 gallons we have added since blowing the O-ring and it still is not totally clear.

Four filters and 22 gallons of TSC RENEW hydraulic fluid this blown $1 o-ring is getting expensive but tractor needed attention.
 
   / Sea Foam in hydraulic sys #29  
Water in oil, there is a solution both easy and cheap: the only thing it needs is time:

I changed the oil in the backend of our loader tractor last winter, because the oil froze up and didnt flow to the pump. I had it run warm for an hour, then let the oil pump pomp against a closed quick coupler to let it blow off through the relief valve and generate a lot of heat to thaw it.

The oil i changed, sat for about a month, then i put it back in the jar: All the water had sunk to the bottom of the canister, above it was clean oil.

I have another pail full of watered oil, i can see the line on the side where oil and water separate. I think i'll put it upside down and let it sit again for some days, then take the cap off to let the water (less viscous than oil) drain from underneath the oil.

Then this summer the water, with some oil, will sit in an open bucket so all the water will evaporate, so this winter i can use the last oil to burn in my heater ;)
 
   / Sea Foam in hydraulic sys #30  
i used to put it in my deep freezer much to my wifes dismay but you can save a lot of oil and get rid of a lot of water this way
 

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