Securing Tractor to Trailer

[JohnMaldaner]

It is time for me to haul my tractor in for scheduled maintenance. I’m looking for advice in the proper way to secure my Kubota L2501 to my flatbed trailer.

Thanks!

 

[shovelmike]

I would use high strength ratchet straps, less prone to damage the paint on the tractor, and plenty strong. Avoid sharp edges which might abrade or cut the strap, pad those with cloth if needed.

 

[oldballs]

I would use high strength ratchet straps, less prone to damage the paint on the tractor, and plenty strong. Avoid sharp edges which might abrade or cut the strap, pad those with cloth if needed.

That works for me too. I wrap the each straps around the front and back axle.

Cheers,
Mike

 

[RjCorazza]

Laws and opinions vary. My previous L3410 was secured with 4 3500lb nylon ratchet straps, plus one for the loader. I used short 2' axle straps around each axle point, with the front straps pulling forward at about 45 degrees, and the rears doing the opposite.

My trailer isn't heavy duty enough to handle my current tractor, but at 6500lbs I would likely use chains and binders. Not sure, but I believe the law in my state (Maryland) requires chain at 10000lbs.

 

[Thomas]

May want to check your state laws,some 2 point or 4 point tie down and some states :confused3:

 

[shaeff]

Whichever method you use, don't cross the straps or chains. (as in, don't make an X out of them) I tend to pull mostly straight back as much as possible, and mostly straight forward.

Here's a good video, doesn't matter whether you're using chains or straps, follow local laws and watch:
Why I don't Cross Strap My Trailer Tie Down - YouTube

 

[tradosaurus]

Amazon.com: Trekassy 2”x 96” Car Axle Tie Down System with 2 Ratchet Straps and 2+2 Axle Straps: Automotive

I used two sets of these to strap down a 4000 lb car on my dual axle trailer and transport it 200 miles.

 

[aczlan]

Laws and opinions vary. My previous L3410 was secured with 4 3500lb nylon ratchet straps, plus one for the loader. I used short 2' axle straps around each axle point, with the front straps pulling forward at about 45 degrees, and the rears doing the opposite.

My trailer isn't heavy duty enough to handle my current tractor, but at 6500lbs I would likely use chains and binders. Not sure, but I believe the law in my state (Maryland) requires chain at 10000lbs.

No requirement for chains on equipment in any state that I have ever seen.
Crushed cars, steel rolls and concrete pipe, yes. Equipment, no.
4 tiedowns are required at 10,000#.
Sometimes I crossstrap, sometimes I don't, it all depends on which gives me a better angle.
Ideal angle is 45 degrees down and 45 degrees to the side.

Aaron Z

 

[mcfarmall]

Here's an interesting slide show. In the section about heavy equipment, etc. it shows front to back tie downs, no crossing. I think I learned something today!

Proper load securement in north america

 

[WranglerX]

First thing I did when I go my car carrier (used to haul race car but now tractor) is make sure you have very secure anchor points (rings or loops) at each corner of trailer.... I also use 2500lb working load 10,000lb burst load ratchet straps.... So secure and you can pull a lot if holding force with them...

Little story... Was coming home from day of racing, cruising along a short cut (nice wide two lane road about 55 mph) and a car runs stop at "T" intersection , suddenly in my lane and I don't really have any place to go, I am hard on brakes and big Chevy PU is in full anti lock braking mode and trailer brakes are locked up and tire squalling.... Chevy emblem on truck grill must have looked 4 feet wide in his rear view mirror, we never touched and I am guessing you could not have put apiece of paper between his rear bumper and my front bumper... Biggest fear was race car would come loose on trailer and come forward into back bed or cab of PU... After stopping a bit later to let butt unclench from seat, race car never moved..... Stopped at road side rest and had snack and a drink, rested for about a hour, .. Got back on road... Was climbing a hill 4 lane with concrete center divider... Two 18 wheeler ahead on the incline and both going really slow, look in mirrors and not a car behind and nothing ahead. moved into inside lane, heavy on pedal to pass, and all of a sudden rear 18 wheeler is in my lane, seems front tuck is doing 10 MPH rear truck is doing 12 MPH and wanted to pass and I doing 50 MPH .. He is suddenly in my lane..... The words "Great Dane" (trailer brand) seem to cover my whole windshield, yes you guesses it, total lock down (again) ... When road in from of me was clear, I when past now lead truck still doing 12 MPH rolled down window and saluted driver over roof of truck........

Kommunist Kalifornia requires 4 tie downs on equipment on trailer...

Do your tie downs well.....

Dale

 

[crashz]

I move it to small jobs just about every weekend. The federal guideline is pretty clear and i won't repeat, but it is educational and I do recommend reading it.

I have evolved my tie down routine based on what has worked and what could have been a problem. I started with using the large 2" 5,000lb ratchet straps and two smaller straps for the mower and loader bucket, but found two of the large straps beginning to fray after a couple of moves. Had me worried that a long haul might allow it to fray through without me knowing. So I replaced the larger straps with chains and lever binders. That gave me a better piece of mind, but always had trouble binding down the load either too tight or too loose. and almost always resulted in loose chains after a few miles down the road. Switching to the screw type binders solved that issue.

Now I have approximately 16,000lbs of restraining capability for a 5000lb load. Only downside is that it takes a bit longer to tie everything down. But its safe and I've never had a chain loosen or a fray issue since.

 

[WranglerX]

Whichever method you use, don't cross the straps or chains. (as in, don't make an X out of them) I tend to pull mostly straight back as much as possible, and mostly straight forward.

Here's a good video, doesn't matter whether you're using chains or straps, follow local laws and watch:
Why I don't Cross Strap My Trailer Tie Down - YouTube

Good video!!!!!

Dale

 

[bdog]

The only downside to straight forward and straight back is it offers no resistance to side to side movement. I don’t cross chains but angle them all outward some from straight forward and back so that the item won’t move sideways.

 

[BRMyers]

I use two 3,333# straps on the front and two on the rear. Plus, if I have any implements on, i make sure to put a sperate strap on the implement and that strap is a small 1,500# rated strap.

(Note the weights given are the WLL not the breaking strength.)

 

[kthompson]

The only downside to straight forward and straight back is it offers no resistance to side to side movement. I don’t cross chains but angle them all outward some from straight forward and back so that the item won’t move sideways.

I have used the cross strapping method and not sure why stopped and I don't use the or have not used the straight forward method myself either. I ran mine at angle to a corner, but not from far corner. After watching the video have to agree with the video if you one chain or strap comes free it can easy move sideways. Back to geometry the shortest distance between two points is a straight line. If strapped straight line TIGHT, then there is no slack or length needed to allow the tractor, car what ever is being hauled slack to move sideways. Which is longer distance than the straight line on the trailer. Hope that is easy to follow. I agree the method you use is about same I have been and always thought the best but the video has me realizing I was wrong.
At same time it is easy to say well have all four corners strapped this way and if one comes of the front the two on the rear will hold it from twisting, maybe but they have the length of the hauled item against them.

Even helped a person chain down a tractor two weeks ago for about 150 mile trip. He seems to haul often and he used two chains with screw load binders. He did as I have many many times, ran the chain through fel loader, hooked at one side and then binder to other side. Did same on the rear. This has helped me realize how poor a method that is.

One plus to the straight line strapping, don't need as long of straps or chains so less weight and cost.
Thanks for the video.

 

[Shredcini]

Here's an interesting slide show. In the section about heavy equipment, etc. it shows front to back tie downs, no crossing. I think I learned something today!

Proper load securement in north america

Good Vid, thanks for sharing.

I have an L2501 and need to move it a short distance so all info was great to ponder.

 

[FTG-05]

Here's an interesting slide show. In the section about heavy equipment, etc. it shows front to back tie downs, no crossing. I think I learned something today!

Proper load securement in north america

"Uploaded SlideShare Suspended"

 

[FTG-05]

Whichever method you use, don't cross the straps or chains. (as in, don't make an X out of them) I tend to pull mostly straight back as much as possible, and mostly straight forward.

Here's a good video, doesn't matter whether you're using chains or straps, follow local laws and watch:
Why I don't Cross Strap My Trailer Tie Down - YouTube

Tiedown Handbook for Truck Movements, PAM-55-20, 4th Edition, Section II, A. General, page 9: https://www.sddc.army.mil/sites/TEA...ity Engineering Publications/Pam_55-20_45.pdf

"You should usually run chains or cables in a same-side pattern (fig 2). You should cross chains or cables when:

1. There is interference with a same-side pattern (fig 3).

2. Two chains use the same tiedown fitting on the payload vehicle. In this case, one chain may be same-side and the other may be crossed (fig 4).

3. When the same-side pattern results in a chain length that is too short for the appropriate loadbinder (fig 5).

4. Same-side may not provide adequate lateral restraint, if the tiedowns have no lateral angle. In the end view, the two tiedowns would appear nearly parallel to each other and/or vertical if they have no lateral angle. In this case, a cross pattern should be used to secure the payload vehicle (fig 6)."

Having said that, the only time I cross is when tying down the body and the side d-rings already have the axle chains/binders installed.

Like this:

 

[edgarrian]

Don't make this harder than it is. I would recommend straps as well but some are more comfortable with chains and a bider. I purchased ratchet straps that are installed on my trailer. I simply just pull the strap to my designated tie down point.

If you have heavy equipment use chains. Don't tie down on flimsy parts. Try getting on the frame. Call insurance and make sure its insured with homeowners

 

[Shredcini]

Don't make this harder than it is. I would recommend straps as well but some are more comfortable with chains and a bider. I purchased ratchet straps that are installed on my trailer. I simply just pull the strap to my designated tie down point.

If you have heavy equipment use chains. Don't tie down on flimsy parts. Try getting on the frame. Call insurance and make sure its insured with homeowners

Call Insurance to make sure its covered, great tip!