Securing Tractor to Trailer

   / Securing Tractor to Trailer #11  
I move it to small jobs just about every weekend. The federal guideline is pretty clear and i won't repeat, but it is educational and I do recommend reading it.

I have evolved my tie down routine based on what has worked and what could have been a problem. I started with using the large 2" 5,000lb ratchet straps and two smaller straps for the mower and loader bucket, but found two of the large straps beginning to fray after a couple of moves. Had me worried that a long haul might allow it to fray through without me knowing. So I replaced the larger straps with chains and lever binders. That gave me a better piece of mind, but always had trouble binding down the load either too tight or too loose. and almost always resulted in loose chains after a few miles down the road. Switching to the screw type binders solved that issue.

Now I have approximately 16,000lbs of restraining capability for a 5000lb load. Only downside is that it takes a bit longer to tie everything down. But its safe and I've never had a chain loosen or a fray issue since.
 
   / Securing Tractor to Trailer #12  
   / Securing Tractor to Trailer #13  
The only downside to straight forward and straight back is it offers no resistance to side to side movement. I don’t cross chains but angle them all outward some from straight forward and back so that the item won’t move sideways.
 
   / Securing Tractor to Trailer #14  
I use two 3,333# straps on the front and two on the rear. Plus, if I have any implements on, i make sure to put a sperate strap on the implement and that strap is a small 1,500# rated strap.

(Note the weights given are the WLL not the breaking strength.)
 
   / Securing Tractor to Trailer #15  
The only downside to straight forward and straight back is it offers no resistance to side to side movement. I don’t cross chains but angle them all outward some from straight forward and back so that the item won’t move sideways.

I have used the cross strapping method and not sure why stopped and I don't use the or have not used the straight forward method myself either. I ran mine at angle to a corner, but not from far corner. After watching the video have to agree with the video if you one chain or strap comes free it can easy move sideways. Back to geometry the shortest distance between two points is a straight line. If strapped straight line TIGHT, then there is no slack or length needed to allow the tractor, car what ever is being hauled slack to move sideways. Which is longer distance than the straight line on the trailer. Hope that is easy to follow. I agree the method you use is about same I have been and always thought the best but the video has me realizing I was wrong.
At same time it is easy to say well have all four corners strapped this way and if one comes of the front the two on the rear will hold it from twisting, maybe but they have the length of the hauled item against them.

Even helped a person chain down a tractor two weeks ago for about 150 mile trip. He seems to haul often and he used two chains with screw load binders. He did as I have many many times, ran the chain through fel loader, hooked at one side and then binder to other side. Did same on the rear. This has helped me realize how poor a method that is.

One plus to the straight line strapping, don't need as long of straps or chains so less weight and cost.
Thanks for the video.
 
   / Securing Tractor to Trailer #16  
   / Securing Tractor to Trailer #18  
Whichever method you use, don't cross the straps or chains. (as in, don't make an X out of them) I tend to pull mostly straight back as much as possible, and mostly straight forward.

Here's a good video, doesn't matter whether you're using chains or straps, follow local laws and watch:
Why I don't Cross Strap My Trailer Tie Down - YouTube

Tiedown Handbook for Truck Movements, PAM-55-20, 4th Edition, Section II, A. General, page 9: https://www.sddc.army.mil/sites/TEA...ity Engineering Publications/Pam_55-20_45.pdf

"You should usually run chains or cables in a same-side pattern (fig 2). You should cross chains or cables when:

1. There is interference with a same-side pattern (fig 3).

2. Two chains use the same tiedown fitting on the payload vehicle. In this case, one chain may be same-side and the other may be crossed (fig 4).

3. When the same-side pattern results in a chain length that is too short for the appropriate loadbinder (fig 5).

4. Same-side may not provide adequate lateral restraint, if the tiedowns have no lateral angle. In the end view, the two tiedowns would appear nearly parallel to each other and/or vertical if they have no lateral angle. In this case, a cross pattern should be used to secure the payload vehicle (fig 6)."

Having said that, the only time I cross is when tying down the body and the side d-rings already have the axle chains/binders installed.

Like this:

sn8rm68.jpg
 
   / Securing Tractor to Trailer #19  
Don't make this harder than it is. I would recommend straps as well but some are more comfortable with chains and a bider. I purchased ratchet straps that are installed on my trailer. I simply just pull the strap to my designated tie down point.

If you have heavy equipment use chains. Don't tie down on flimsy parts. Try getting on the frame. Call insurance and make sure its insured with homeowners
 
   / Securing Tractor to Trailer #20  
Don't make this harder than it is. I would recommend straps as well but some are more comfortable with chains and a bider. I purchased ratchet straps that are installed on my trailer. I simply just pull the strap to my designated tie down point.

If you have heavy equipment use chains. Don't tie down on flimsy parts. Try getting on the frame. Call insurance and make sure its insured with homeowners

Call Insurance to make sure its covered, great tip!
 

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