seeking opinions

williekioti · Jan 11, 2008

Here is one pic I dug up of my setup, have better one's just can't find 'em. This works for me OK, will go through my 7' door with ROPS dropped to either the 45* or 90*(but not up

). But if you're convinced you need a canopy then I'm not sure I have any suggestions.............................

.........................except building a dedicated tractor storage unit.........I'll whisper it so the you know who won't hear...........barn.

I have recently moved and am struggling with storage issues myself, so trust me, I know where you coming from.

My wires are tight when the ROPS is up and loosen as the ROPS drops. I ran my wires up the backside of the bar figuring it would be better protected from grabbing tree limbs and would move with folding movement better. I personally did not armor my wire inside wire protector because I thought it stuck out too much and thought twigs/limbs would be more apt to grab it than if just a single wire laying flat against the ROPS bar.

PA hayseed · Jan 11, 2008

Thanks all.

I never stated that I was thinking about adding a canopy to install one of the "home made" enclosures/cabs that so many people on this site have been fabricating. I kinda left that out - sorry. Live in PA and it does get a little chilly and windy on the hill tops, and this white stuff falls from the sky. When I had the light problem I immediately thought lights on canopy solution, since I was thinking canopy and cab already.

I really like the idea of adding the lights to the ROPS underneath, serves the purpose and saves me 350 or so on a canopy. Maybe I'll just scrap the canopy/cab/lights idea and install the lights underneath for now. Then this summer add a little length onto my pole building and a 10' door and I can do the rest of the customization later.

The pics have been real helpful too.

Thanks again. There is more than one way to skin a cat.

kentrodngun · Jan 11, 2008

See my cheapie solution from last year:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/92695-canopy-looking-input.html

Also, I added a small propane heater for when it really gets cold (the type that looks like a big bug eye and runs off a 1lb cylinder).

PA hayseed · Jan 13, 2008

kentrodngun said:
See my cheapie solution from last year:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/92695-canopy-looking-input.html

Also, I added a small propane heater for when it really gets cold (the type that looks like a big bug eye and runs off a 1lb cylinder).

Yes, I have read that thread. I liked the layout plus all the insight added from other posters on modifications and add ons. Very good thread.

cabin kioti · Jan 14, 2008

I also live in north central pa.You forgot the Pocono's that now belong to new york and new jersy. I also have the same problem with my ck30hst fel/bh.I was thinking of mounting mine on the side of the ropes up about three quarters of the way.I think this way I don't hit the low hanging branches. I was also looking at magnetic mounts with a quick disconnects for
power that would be powered from a remote location and fused behind the drivers seat. Hope this videa helps.

PA hayseed · Jan 15, 2008

cabin kioti said:
I also live in north central pa.You forgot the Pocono's that now belong to new york and new jersy. I also have the same problem with my ck30hst fel/bh.I was thinking of mounting mine on the side of the ropes up about three quarters of the way.I think this way I don't hit the low hanging branches. I was also looking at magnetic mounts with a quick disconnects for
power that would be powered from a remote location and fused behind the drivers seat. Hope this videa helps.

Yes, I had to go to a training at Pocono Summit, by the race track, and the peopl up there seemed to be rude and self centered. I talked to a couple fo the locals and they told me about the New Yorkers moving in down that way.

The magnetic idea I like. The only problem I could see with it is possible vibration issues. But I would imagine with a strong enough magnet it wouldn't be an issue.

Bigboyskioti · Jan 15, 2008

Check before you mount them under the rops. I id mine that way at first was real proud of myself until about 2 weeks later was finishing up the grass cutting and the light beams hit me in the back of my head. Not sure which one is worse the FEL or my head. Ended up on top. Now they work great

TBDonnelly · Jan 16, 2008

PA hayseed said:
The magnetic idea I like. The only problem I could see with it is possible vibration issues. But I would imagine with a strong enough magnet it wouldn't be an issue.

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LBrown59 · Jan 16, 2008

Do a search on this board.
There are threads and post all over here about adding lights to a tractor.
I've posted serval times about that myself.

PA hayseed said:
I have personally found that my Kioti's headlights are almost worthless while doing any FEL work. It has been so nice here lately (65 in January WAHOO!) that I have gotten to use my tractor outside for something other than snow. But being winter now, and getting dark by 5:00pm, almost all the work has to happen after sunset.

Is this just me, or do others feel the same. FYI I own a DK45 sehst 2007.

I was thinking about removing the headlights altogether, and mounting them on the hood of the tractor in a cage - or something to protect them. I know alot of people have lights mounted on their canopies, but I don't have a canopy. I have clearance issues with my garage door, and have to go in with the ROPS at a 45 now, if I did it with a canopy, my rops would have to lay all the way back.

Maybe I will add on to my pole building this summer and make a 10'door so I have no issues. But that is a lot of money (with the rops and the lights added in).

********** I am not knocking the tractor or Kioti - just the lights******

williekioti · Jan 16, 2008

Bigboyskioti said:
Check before you mount them under the rops. I id mine that way at first was real proud of myself until about 2 weeks later was finishing up the grass cutting and the light beams hit me in the back of my head. Not sure which one is worse the FEL or my head. Ended up on top. Now they work great

The type of work light/shape of the light's beam makes a big difference. I personally can not get away with mounting mine on top as they would not last there for long......... tree branches, overhangs, etc.

Mine illuminate the operator area but I am certainly not backlit. My lights are trapezoidal beams and they are mounted sideways for more vertical projection, which works perfectly for FEL work. I originally tried them in conventional mode but found if the work area in front was the focus of the beam, when I raised my loader it went out of sight. If I raised the beam, the ground out front disappeared. Maybe flood beams are better, but then maybe I'd feel backlit....... Height of the ROP will have some influence as well.

I guess the best advice out of this is to mount them as high as you can get away with and to mount them so you have some adjustment of the projection.