seeking opinions

[PA hayseed]

I have personally found that my Kioti's headlights are almost worthless while doing any FEL work. It has been so nice here lately (65 in January WAHOO!) that I have gotten to use my tractor outside for something other than snow. But being winter now, and getting dark by 5:00pm, almost all the work has to happen after sunset.

Is this just me, or do others feel the same. FYI I own a DK45 sehst 2007.

I was thinking about removing the headlights altogether, and mounting them on the hood of the tractor in a cage - or something to protect them. I know alot of people have lights mounted on their canopies, but I don't have a canopy. I have clearance issues with my garage door, and have to go in with the ROPS at a 45 now, if I did it with a canopy, my rops would have to lay all the way back.

Maybe I will add on to my pole building this summer and make a 10'door so I have no issues. But that is a lot of money (with the rops and the lights added in).

********** I am not knocking the tractor or Kioti - just the lights******

 

[bearhawk]

I find that the lights reflect off the loader crossbrace and the bucket.

So I run with the bucket a little higher than normal so I can see a little better.

How about some smaller lights mounted to the loader arms by the bend.

Maybe some magnet mount ones.

I wonder if JC Whitey might have something that might work...

0.02

 

[kentrodngun]

PA, yes, I too have the same problem. If I drop the bucket low enough, I can see with the headlights, but I'm a bit apprehensive about hitting some raised object in the road / yard / field. Raised bucket makes it even worse as I can't see anything. I don't know if it's any better with another brand of tractor.

A couple of years ago I added some cheap HF fog type lights to the ROPS. A number of guys did similar and you can probably find threads on procedures. A good method seems to be buy two lights and have one face forward and the other backwards.

Some other suggestions (based on my signature)
Buy better quality rubberized light(s);
Add a dashboard fused two position switch (front & rear);
Install flexible tubing to channel the wires through & secure it well to ROPS & frame;
DON'T drill the ROPS - most guys used threaded U bolt set ups.
Only use your tractor in daylight

 

[IslandTractor]

Same issue here when using a bucket. The lights work better when using a grapple though.

I intend to install a FOPS connection to the sunshade and mount lights on that but haven't gotten around to it yet.

 

[williekioti]

We all have this issue. I doubt brand/model makes much, if any difference. I find the headlights almost useless for FEL work at night due to the back splash of light off the bucket and cross bracing. My pallet forks are slightly better, but still not great.

I addressed this by adding work lights on the ROPS(there's a thread in here somewhere) and have worked perfectly. I too must drop my ROPS for indoor storage and the lights affect positioning/dimensions not a bit(even at a 45*).

To further Kentrodandgun's recommendations;

-quality lights with adjustable base(key feature to be able to put light where you want it) light placement may vary according to task. Mine can go up/down & side to side.

 

[PA hayseed]

I too must drop my ROPS for indoor storage and the lights affect positioning/dimensions not a bit(even at a 45*).

To further Kentrodandgun's recommendations;

-quality lights with adjustable base(key feature to be able to put light where you want it) light placement may vary according to task. Mine can go up/down & side to side.

When I drop the rops at a 45, the top edge of the ROPS will bump the garage door on my pole building slightly. They are 7' doors. I did not forsee buying this big of a tractor when the building was built, thus the clearance issues. I have already insulated the walls and ceilings, and have an insulated garage door (and a grage door opener with a remote mounted on the tractor). I am not inclined to rip out the existing door to install a 9' door - besides - the wife would be unpleased by it not matching the other door.

Using my keen sense of spatial relations, the canopy with lights would definetly hit, folded at the 45. With the rops all the way folded back, the canopy at a 90 degree angle, I am not so sure. If anyone has rops with a canopy and lights, could you please let me know if you 1) fold the rops back with the canopy and lights on, and 2) what is the overall height of the canopy and rops with it folded all the way to the rear. If folding the rops all the way to the rear with the canopy on, came under 7', I would be happy to fold it back and forth for lighting purposes. At least until I can add on to the poole building.

I am also asuming that you would have to ensure you had slack in the light wires to allow for the rops movement.

comments, insights and suggestions are always welcome.

 

[DK35vince]

My DK 35 fits in my polebarn fine. But I need to fold the ROPS and canopy when I want to put my tractor in the garage (7' high doors).
If I fold my ROPS 90 degrees the tip of my canopy is around 6' high.

 

[DK35vince]

In this picture you can see the 2x4 I wedge between the folded ROPS bars to keep the canopy from hitting/rubbing my fenders when folded.

 

[PA hayseed]

In this picture you can see the 2x4 I wedge between the folded ROPS bars to keep the canopy from hitting/rubbing my fenders when folded.

Thanks alot for the pics, and very nice angles to view the rops. The only problem I see is that my 45 ROPS don't fold in half, they pivot at the base. My last tractor they folded in half, but not these. At the base there are two plates, with pin holes at the 90, 45, and flat.

 

[BigDogues]

A lot of folks add light (mounting) bars to the underside of the ROPS using u-bolts. Then you can permanently affix the lights to the bar. The bar lets you drill and mount the lights whereever you want to. Do a search for "lightbar", there is a bunch of threads on this.

 

[williekioti]

Here is one pic I dug up of my setup, have better one's just can't find 'em. This works for me OK, will go through my 7' door with ROPS dropped to either the 45* or 90*(but not up ). But if you're convinced you need a canopy then I'm not sure I have any suggestions.............................

.........................except building a dedicated tractor storage unit.........I'll whisper it so the you know who won't hear...........barn.

I have recently moved and am struggling with storage issues myself, so trust me, I know where you coming from.

My wires are tight when the ROPS is up and loosen as the ROPS drops. I ran my wires up the backside of the bar figuring it would be better protected from grabbing tree limbs and would move with folding movement better. I personally did not armor my wire inside wire protector because I thought it stuck out too much and thought twigs/limbs would be more apt to grab it than if just a single wire laying flat against the ROPS bar.

 

[PA hayseed]

Thanks all.

I never stated that I was thinking about adding a canopy to install one of the "home made" enclosures/cabs that so many people on this site have been fabricating. I kinda left that out - sorry. Live in PA and it does get a little chilly and windy on the hill tops, and this white stuff falls from the sky. When I had the light problem I immediately thought lights on canopy solution, since I was thinking canopy and cab already.

I really like the idea of adding the lights to the ROPS underneath, serves the purpose and saves me 350 or so on a canopy. Maybe I'll just scrap the canopy/cab/lights idea and install the lights underneath for now. Then this summer add a little length onto my pole building and a 10' door and I can do the rest of the customization later.

The pics have been real helpful too.

Thanks again. There is more than one way to skin a cat.

 

[kentrodngun]

See my cheapie solution from last year:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/92695-canopy-looking-input.html

Also, I added a small propane heater for when it really gets cold (the type that looks like a big bug eye and runs off a 1lb cylinder).

 

[PA hayseed]

See my cheapie solution from last year:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/92695-canopy-looking-input.html

Also, I added a small propane heater for when it really gets cold (the type that looks like a big bug eye and runs off a 1lb cylinder).

Yes, I have read that thread. I liked the layout plus all the insight added from other posters on modifications and add ons. Very good thread.

 

[cabin kioti]

I also live in north central pa.You forgot the Pocono's that now belong to new york and new jersy. I also have the same problem with my ck30hst fel/bh.I was thinking of mounting mine on the side of the ropes up about three quarters of the way.I think this way I don't hit the low hanging branches. I was also looking at magnetic mounts with a quick disconnects for
power that would be powered from a remote location and fused behind the drivers seat. Hope this videa helps.

 

[PA hayseed]

I also live in north central pa.You forgot the Pocono's that now belong to new york and new jersy. I also have the same problem with my ck30hst fel/bh.I was thinking of mounting mine on the side of the ropes up about three quarters of the way.I think this way I don't hit the low hanging branches. I was also looking at magnetic mounts with a quick disconnects for
power that would be powered from a remote location and fused behind the drivers seat. Hope this videa helps.

Yes, I had to go to a training at Pocono Summit, by the race track, and the peopl up there seemed to be rude and self centered. I talked to a couple fo the locals and they told me about the New Yorkers moving in down that way.

The magnetic idea I like. The only problem I could see with it is possible vibration issues. But I would imagine with a strong enough magnet it wouldn't be an issue.

 

[Bigboyskioti]

Check before you mount them under the rops. I id mine that way at first was real proud of myself until about 2 weeks later was finishing up the grass cutting and the light beams hit me in the back of my head. Not sure which one is worse the FEL or my head. Ended up on top. Now they work great

 

[TBDonnelly]

The magnetic idea I like. The only problem I could see with it is possible vibration issues. But I would imagine with a strong enough magnet it wouldn't be an issue.

Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

Don

 

[LBrown59]

Do a search on this board.
There are threads and post all over here about adding lights to a tractor.
I've posted serval times about that myself.

I have personally found that my Kioti's headlights are almost worthless while doing any FEL work. It has been so nice here lately (65 in January WAHOO!) that I have gotten to use my tractor outside for something other than snow. But being winter now, and getting dark by 5:00pm, almost all the work has to happen after sunset.

Is this just me, or do others feel the same. FYI I own a DK45 sehst 2007.

I was thinking about removing the headlights altogether, and mounting them on the hood of the tractor in a cage - or something to protect them. I know alot of people have lights mounted on their canopies, but I don't have a canopy. I have clearance issues with my garage door, and have to go in with the ROPS at a 45 now, if I did it with a canopy, my rops would have to lay all the way back.

Maybe I will add on to my pole building this summer and make a 10'door so I have no issues. But that is a lot of money (with the rops and the lights added in).

********** I am not knocking the tractor or Kioti - just the lights******

 

[williekioti]

Check before you mount them under the rops. I id mine that way at first was real proud of myself until about 2 weeks later was finishing up the grass cutting and the light beams hit me in the back of my head. Not sure which one is worse the FEL or my head. Ended up on top. Now they work great

The type of work light/shape of the light's beam makes a big difference. I personally can not get away with mounting mine on top as they would not last there for long......... tree branches, overhangs, etc.

Mine illuminate the operator area but I am certainly not backlit. My lights are trapezoidal beams and they are mounted sideways for more vertical projection, which works perfectly for FEL work. I originally tried them in conventional mode but found if the work area in front was the focus of the beam, when I raised my loader it went out of sight. If I raised the beam, the ground out front disappeared. Maybe flood beams are better, but then maybe I'd feel backlit....... Height of the ROP will have some influence as well.

I guess the best advice out of this is to mount them as high as you can get away with and to mount them so you have some adjustment of the projection.