Selecting blade type

   / Selecting blade type #1  

dnw64

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 13, 2017
Messages
1,724
Location
SE Vermont, South Jersey
Tractor
Kubota B3030 Cab
I've recently (this past winter) acquired a new property that requires mowing. I've been using my Land Pride 1660 finish mower to try and get it into better shape. As I understand, it was "bush hogged" once a year previously. I'd like to make it a little more grass-like and a little less "weedpatch-like". My intention is to mow it maybe 3 times a year to keep the weeds from going to seed.

This is not "field grass" as in, filled in, ready-to-make-hay kind of grass. It's somewhat sparse, but the taller stuff I'm cutting is probably near 2 feet. I know, probably more suited for a rotary cutter, but this is what I currently have.

My mower does a pretty decent job, but i do get some "stragglers" - tall, uncut pieces of grass/weeds/whatever. It may be partly due to the blades not being razor sharp, but they are not too-too bad (compared to some I've seen here and there). What I'm thinking is that since I have it set to the highest possible cutting height (wanting to avoid the not-too-infrequent rocks, protruding ledge, misc logs etc) that there just isn't enough suction to keep everything pulled up good and tight so that it gets sliced/shred/torn off. I'm assuming that the blades I have are "medium lift". Would "high lift" potentially give me a better cut? Other thoughts (other than getting a rotary cutter, which is not entirely out of the question)?

FWIW, I don't feel I have a problem with power on my 22.5 HP (gross) / 5' mower, so the extra loss from the high lift (I'm assuming there is one) would probably not be significant.

This is the type of conditions I'm looking at:
IMG_6205.jpgIMG_6206.jpgIMG_6207.jpgIMG_6208.jpg

NOTE: Yes, I am cutting some of the "brush" that's in the pics, but with a more regular schedule of 2-3 time per year that condition will no longer be. I suspect that the previous owner actually didn't have it cut at all last year.
 
   / Selecting blade type #2  
The tall pieces are likely taller than your deck is wide. The front edge pushes it down and holds it until the rear edge reaches it and holds it down. The blades may never touch it. If so, the blade type or condition won't make any difference.

Bruce
 
   / Selecting blade type #3  
The tall pieces are likely taller than your deck is wide. The front edge pushes it down and holds it until the rear edge reaches it and holds it down. The blades may never touch it. If so, the blade type or condition won't make any difference.

Bruce

I agree, rough cut mowers do not have a front or rear "side" to the deck or lip if better term. Only sides to the deck.
 
   / Selecting blade type
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Good possibility. But this is a rear discharge, so there's not a rear "side" to it. Can still see that being a possibility though.

Thanks
 
   / Selecting blade type #5  
How many times did you try cutting it? I would cut the opposite direction or try 90 degrees to the last cutting. I think you could get by with the equipment you have now unless you want to spend some money. Sharpen your blades too
 
   / Selecting blade type #6  
Another possible solution. Take the time to walk the fields and mark or remove the rocks & logs. The ledge??? - I guess mark it. This will allow you to lower the finish cutter and achieve a better cut. As all have indicated - be sure the blades are sharp.
 
   / Selecting blade type
  • Thread Starter
#7  
How many times did you try cutting it? I would cut the opposite direction or try 90 degrees to the last cutting.

That was one cut. 90° would probably be ideal but a lot of it really "needs" to be mowed in one direction because of the steepness. But I could try mowing 180°.
 
   / Selecting blade type
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Another possible solution. Take the time to walk the fields and mark or remove the rocks & logs. The ledge??? - I guess mark it.

Good project for my brother-in-law as he recovers from a recent accident.

Not sure how to mark the ledge but can probably come up with something.

Blades are being sharpened.
 
   / Selecting blade type #9  
Waiting till the grass goes to seed is beneficial to the project. Unfortunately, about the only way to get a decent cut quality will be to cut it a second time, either at an angle, or at least in the opposite direction. Wait a few days or more between cuts.
 
   / Selecting blade type #10  
As Rick suggests, wait a few days between cutting it at a different angle and I think you'll have great results. As for angles of cut, rather than 90 or 180, try a slight angle on the first cut and then a slight angle the other way on the second cut. Instead of ( l ) and then ( -- ) to form ( + ) patterns, angle from 5:00 to 11:00 ( \ ) and then from 7:00 to 1:00 ( / ) to form a ( X ) pattern.
 
   / Selecting blade type #11  
I installed high lift blades on my 5' Land Pride Finish Mower, I had to take them off and put the low-lift blades back on due to the engine overheating on my 19hp PTO Kubota B2650. You are correct, high lift blades require more power.
 
   / Selecting blade type #12  
I've recently (this past winter) acquired a new property that requires mowing. I've been using my Land Pride 1660 finish mower to try and get it into better shape. As I understand, it was "bush hogged" once a year previously. I'd like to make it a little more grass-like and a little less "weedpatch-like". My intention is to mow it maybe 3 times a year to keep the weeds from going to seed.

This is not "field grass" as in, filled in, ready-to-make-hay kind of grass. It's somewhat sparse, but the taller stuff I'm cutting is probably near 2 feet. I know, probably more suited for a rotary cutter, but this is what I currently have.

My mower does a pretty decent job, but i do get some "stragglers" - tall, uncut pieces of grass/weeds/whatever. It may be partly due to the blades not being razor sharp, but they are not too-too bad (compared to some I've seen here and there). What I'm thinking is that since I have it set to the highest possible cutting height (wanting to avoid the not-too-infrequent rocks, protruding ledge, misc logs etc) that there just isn't enough suction to keep everything pulled up good and tight so that it gets sliced/shred/torn off. I'm assuming that the blades I have are "medium lift". Would "high lift" potentially give me a better cut? Other thoughts (other than getting a rotary cutter, which is not entirely out of the question)?

FWIW, I don't feel I have a problem with power on my 22.5 HP (gross) / 5' mower, so the extra loss from the high lift (I'm assuming there is one) would probably not be significant.

This is the type of conditions I'm looking at:
View attachment 561079View attachment 561080View attachment 561081View attachment 561082

NOTE: Yes, I am cutting some of the "brush" that's in the pics, but with a more regular schedule of 2-3 time per year that condition will no longer be. I suspect that the previous owner actually didn't have it cut at all last year.

Just one comment. I don’t think 3 times a year will stop the weeds going to seed. Not based on my fields going to seed in what seems like a week

Andy
 

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