Tires Selection criteria of ag or industrial tires

[Gary Fowler]

Tungalarafishcamp: That is quiet a combo you have there.

 

[ArtMech]

Saracenas: I think you will find that industrial tires wont fit the rims you have now. If you decide to go with industrial, you will need to buy new rims also. THe industrial are wider and rim is smaller in most instances.

Good point, Gary,
I've checked the Ags according to my rims and present tire dimensions. They really are available. And I've just saw a lot of different industrial tires, but didn't check their accordance to my rims. No, I'm not intended to change the rims for industrial tires. And the Ags for my ground are OK.
Thank You for good advice

 

[Verticaltrx]

Good point, Gary,
I've checked the Ags according to my rims and present tire dimensions. They really are available. And I've just saw a lot of different industrial tires, but didn't check their accordance to my rims. No, I'm not intended to change the rims for industrial tires. And the Ags for my ground are OK.
Thank You for good advice

If you decide to go with Ag tires, the Firestone's (bridgestone in some parts of the world) are hard to beat. Something like the 'Traction Field & Road' they offer would be my choice. They have a 23* lug and really pull and wear great. We have them on a few different tractors and have gotten great service and performance out of them. They are a bit more spendy than other cheaper tires, but in line with Titan and Goodyear.

 

[SPYDERLK]

And one extra question just for fun
Wouldn't you think, that the worn out Ag tires with shallow lugs may perfectly function as the industrial ones?

Thats an idea ... for AG shod tractors, a stiff carcass hi ply rating worn down set of Ags for the front. Could go up one size width for footprint [and good lead ratio :thumbsup:] since they are worn down to near the height of the next smaller size. The 11.2x24 on the 7520 carry plenty of load at max rated pressure, but like LD1 has, there are times when they sink in too much. 12.4Width with 3/4" remaining lugs would be great!
larry

 

[wny770]

No doubt, R1 tires for farming... Why would you want anything else on a farm tractor? But everyone says R4 tires are no good in snow or mud? Kinda funny, I live in the snow belt of lake Erie. Not unusual to get a 2+ foot snowfall at least 3 or 4 times a year. Heck, remember 2001 when we got 7 foot? That's right... 7 feet over 3 days. None of the neighbors ever got stuck. Log trees. No one gets stuck. Tires are like politics or religion on this website.... I know.... I'll hear about this one....

 

[slaveToHorses]

Dear friends,
Important argument posted by 'montejw' who says "ag tires would be better for some of this, but the yard (where the tractor is stored) would be trashed." Curious thing is, that a small L tractor (~900 kg) with deep lugs damages my grass in the yard much more than a heavy M machine (~3000 kg) with shallow lugs. But indeed, all must depend on the works you're gonna do.

Yup, I have tractors with R1, R2 and R4 tires. The R1's definitely leave the place more trashed in the spring and winter when there is a lot of mud and snow around here. When I got my 3720 in 2005, I ordered it with the largest R4s (filled). This is my around the farm utility loader tractor. 5 years later I would make the exact same choice. I even use it for light field work (disk harrow and such) and for land clearing. I have to drive it down a muddy "road" to move the horse manure and it actually works better for this than the R1 tractors. It has some flotation and doesn't leave big ruts so it has a better surface to drive across on subsequent passes. The bigger field tractor has R1's and that is the right choice there. The mowing tractor has R2's but I also sometimes mow with the R4s and they are almost as nice on the grass.

And one extra question just for fun
Wouldn't you think, that the worn out Ag tires with shallow lugs may perfectly function as the industrial ones?

Nope. From experience. The R4s are wider, for a given tractor and have a flatter footprint and wider lugs. This puts much more rubber in contact with a flat surface than an R1, even a worn down R1.

 

[JoelD]

I've owned both.

R1's are supperior for traction on loose and muddy soil. Industrial imediately pack up and become slick.

Industrials will not rip off lugs in rocky soil like R1's and will not tear up sod like R1's.

I live in rocky, dry soil, Industrials work best for me. I tore up my Ag's on the rocks.

I also drive on my grass alot.

Search on the subject and see almost as many threads on this subject as you will on hst versus gear.

Joel

 

[wolc123]

The R4 is the best tire for operating on pavement, but since so little tractor usage typically occurs on pavement, they are not the best tire for most tasks. They are also not the worst tire for most tasks off the pavement, for example, R1's are the worst for mowing, while Turfs are the worst for heavy, ground-engaging tasks. The improved puncture resistance of the R4 rarely comes into play for non-industrial tractor (especially CUT) usage. In most soil conditions, a 2wd tractor with R1 tires will be able to develop a traction force equal or more than an equivenent-weight 4wd tractor with R4's. This disparity becomes greater as soil is tilled or turns to mud. For me at least, this is where the R4's really strike out as I want to be able to get the most out of a very expensive 4wd option for the many ground-engaging tasks that I use my tractors for. Also, I am in a swampy area where ground is often wet, and R4's, while a little better than R1's, will still do significant damage to my lawn on most days. My seperate, lawn-mower tractors are equipped with turf tires. The lawn-mowers are also equipped with hydro trans, far and away the best choice for that task, while the field tractors are all gear. For those forced by budget, lack of space, etc into a single tractor for lawn and field work, then the R4 is the best choice, but dont expect the quality of performance at any task as could be achieved with others. One word, already mentioned, sums up the R4 tire in non-industrial applications better than any other.... COMPROMISE. Some folks are ok with that, but some are not, myself included.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I simply will not have a tractor with anything other than R1's after my Uncle and College Roommate bought a 33HP JD and a 29HP Case and I first hand saw how much less work they would do when it came to pulling. We do lots of logging, pulling stumps, pulling a 2 bottom plow, ect. The R4's just do not cut it.

By the way my two tractors both have R1's and never had a puncture in about 20 years of operating in the woods 75 hours each per year. I have rolled 1 front off the rim this spring but I am sure that was due to low pressure.


Chris

 

[wolc123]

I have punctured front R1's (2) times in (5) years of in-the-woods operation. I have only had R1's on the front for the last (5) years since getting my first 4wd tractor. Prior to that, I always had tri-ribs on the front of 2wd tractors. In 30 years of operating tractors in the woods with R1's on the rear, I am still waiting for my first rear puncture. Luckily, the fronts are tubeless on my 4wd, and I was able to repair the punctures in less than 5 minutes with a tubeless patch kit. Maybe I could have them 10 minutes back had I got R4's, but that time would have certainly been lost many times over spinning my wheels trying to pull big logs which the R1's make short work of.