septic sense ???

[TerryinMD]

Richard,

You need to find out where your septic tank is. Typically, the top of the tank is just a foot or two under the surface. Do you have the plat layout of your house, septic field, septic tank etc. If you do just measure out and begin digging. I found my access cover this summer in about 20 minutes. Another ten minutes of digging and the access lid was ready to be pulled.

As I explain in another thread, I then put in a access cover for future cleanouts. The ring from the tank to the surface of the ground is 28" double-wall plastic conduit and a 28" concrete lid. Put in the pipe, backfill around the pipe, drop on the lid, and you have instant access anytime you wish.

Terry

 

[Molerj]

When I got my tank pumped out, I had to first locate where we put the tank 6 yrs. ealier
& then dig around (had a back hoe at the house doing some other work) till he found the
lid. I then used concrete block placed on top of the tank to make a pit with a metal lid that I
covered with about 8 inches of sandy soil. Marked the center with a brick that is flush with
the ground. They also sell two foot round & tall cement risers that have a lid. Next time I
need it pumped out I will just dig by hand under the brick, remove the metal cover
& the clean out access will be right there.

 

[BobT]

FYI,

If the septic was designed by an engineer, the septic will be at a point located by triangulating 100 feet from each corner of the back of the house. If you have no "map" or other info, that would be a good place to start looking (digging).

BobT.
A Indiana Boy

 

[TerryinMD]

Another way to locate it is to see if the grass is either a little drier or maybe greener in the area. Drier if the tank is very close to the surface. Greener if the tank is putting off some moisture. Concrete will draw off a little moisture and perk up to the surface.

Another way is to look for it melting the snow or frost since the ground should be warmer if the septic tank is doing it's job.

Hope this helps some.

Terry

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Metal detectors work real well for locating the reenforcing mesh in the lid. The fellow who pumps mine has a T shaped metal rod witha sharp point on the bottom of the T, for probing around to find the center of the tank.
The top of the septic tank is usually less than 18" from the surphace. Tanks are also required to be so many feet from a well, so if you follow a line from the house the distance from the well, you usually find the tank pretty easy.

 

[Bird]

I've got one of those probes myself; great for locating underground pipe, but when I had my sewer system put in. I told them they couldn't just bury that first tank; had to put a concrete collar over the access hole and a lid on it, so it's real easy to open to pump out when it needs it.

Bird

 

[Richard]

I know where tank is, probably could take a stick and place over where access is also. I had just never thought of putting some kind of access tunnel there.

Ours is simply covered by dirt, the depth I'm uncertain. We (two of us) have been in the house for say, 4 years now. New construction. This talk about preventative cleaning out has my intrigued.

I just had timing belt break on Volvo. Gonna cost $3,500 to fix because all 24 valves are now pretzles.

I'm a big fan of preventative maintainence. I think my wife now is too (HER volvo...but I still get to pay!!) /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

Richard

 

[dthomas]

HighTech,
Finally...a subject I know a little bit about. This is how I make my living. Don't have time to read all the posts right now but tonight I will and make my comments if all the bases are not already covered. /w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif

Donald

 

[MossRoad]

My septic tanks are 18" - 24" below the ground. I have them measured from two corners of the house, so they are easy to find. I have a round ring of edging around them that I can plant petunias in. The soil is always loose because of the flower bed. Works great. My dry well used to be 2' under ground. The previous owner removed the manhole lid, put in a 2' high piece of pipe the same size as the lid, then put the lid on top of that at ground level for easy access. The poop sucker guy told me I should remove the pipe and put it back to 2' under ground. I asked why? He said a little kid died after falling in one just 4 blocks from my house. I said a little kid couldn't lift that concrete lid. He said, no, it took two of them. I'm going to have it put back to the proper way before the ground freezes, and put a little flower bed over it as well. Just a thought.

<font color=green> MossRoad </font color=green>

 

[RJohnson]

Richard,
Your builder should have provided you with some information on upkeep of the septic system. Too often we all have the "out-of-sight, out-of-mind" type of mentality. How big your tank is, how many people are "feeding"/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gifit, and what you flush down the toliet all affect how often the tank needs to be pumped. Do you have a garbage disposal? If so you will need to pump more often.
You might wish to look at this link for general information on septic tanks.
http://www.beverlysofficepark.com/septicsystemsexpress/faqs.htm
I have done a lot of research on the type of septic system that I am going to put in for my retirement home. Just one thing to keep in mind, every onsite septic system does a good job a digesting the organic material but there is a large amount of inorganic material that goes down the drain. This is what your tank is for, to trap it so that it can be removed before your system backs up and tells you something is wrong. Good luck on you PM it sounds like it is about time for you to pump your tank.

Randy

<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by RJohnson on 11/02/01 11:52 AM (server time).</FONT></P>