Egon
Epic Contributor
Thanks Aaron.:thumbsup::thumbsup:
I need all the help I can get!
I need all the help I can get!
Septic Tank Chemistry
- Thread starter Piperflyer
- Start date
- Views: 12597
Soundguy
Old Timer
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as has been said. the biological ballance is the key in the tank.
greases cause issues, adn cleaning chemicals REALLY cause issues.
soundguy
greases cause issues, adn cleaning chemicals REALLY cause issues.
soundguy
EE_Bota
Veteran Member
I'd think of is more as Septic Tank Biology, as that will put you more in the spirit of what is happening.
displacedPA
Gold Member
I was told buttermilk is great for spetics.. this was tolkd to me by the husband and wife team that pumped our tank.. I would trust them she worked at a municpality waste plant for years.. I will say it was quite funny have a woman pump out our tank. :laughing:
I took waste water classes in college.
There really are no chemicals you should add or anything to a good system. Ideally you route both the clothes washer and dish washer around the septic tank. Even bath water, this would be called around here a grey water bypass. This grey water goes to a small box to catch small solids then to the leach field where both the grey water and overflow from the spetic go. Most people don't go this route due to cost. Try and avoid as others have stated soaps, cleaners and bleach. These kill the bacteria that will eat and break down the solids. My dad did put in a grey water system and has been able to extend his tank pumping to 8-9 years. People that run everything into one usually go 2-3 years.
As far as adding bacteria to a system, the system will only support what it can. IMO the things you add are a waste of money. If you have a lot of chemicals going down the drain, maybe they help, I doubt it though.
Everytime the tank is pumped make sure they check you baffles. As was stated it keeps the leach system from getting solids.
Here is site that seems to explain a lot. Seems most of the america web sites promote reuse of the grey water now.
Septic tank systems — Bio-Systems SA
There really are no chemicals you should add or anything to a good system. Ideally you route both the clothes washer and dish washer around the septic tank. Even bath water, this would be called around here a grey water bypass. This grey water goes to a small box to catch small solids then to the leach field where both the grey water and overflow from the spetic go. Most people don't go this route due to cost. Try and avoid as others have stated soaps, cleaners and bleach. These kill the bacteria that will eat and break down the solids. My dad did put in a grey water system and has been able to extend his tank pumping to 8-9 years. People that run everything into one usually go 2-3 years.
As far as adding bacteria to a system, the system will only support what it can. IMO the things you add are a waste of money. If you have a lot of chemicals going down the drain, maybe they help, I doubt it though.
Everytime the tank is pumped make sure they check you baffles. As was stated it keeps the leach system from getting solids.
Here is site that seems to explain a lot. Seems most of the america web sites promote reuse of the grey water now.
Septic tank systems — Bio-Systems SA
Artisan
Veteran Member
My comments in RED
Indeed when it comes to plumbing, nothing lasts forever. It is amazing how many of my clients over the years always seem to come off w/ the comment;" We have lived here "X" years and never had a problem! " Eventually every last piece of pipe in a cast iron and galvanaized waste and vent system will need to be replaced. Newer plastic systems, when installed correctly, with clean outs everywhere, and hydrojetted at least every 5 years, will outlive our childrens great grand children, SEPTIC TANKS, moreso their drainfields, will all fail eventually, you have to service them from time to time weather they need it or not.
Next tuesday I go back to a restaurant, just a sandwich shop, no Preventitive Maintenence (PM) cabling or jetting over the years, they have been pouring BLEACH down the drain, IT IS SO FREAKING BAD FOR YOUR DRAINS, DO NOT DO IT, STOP IT IMEDIATLY AS WELL AS ALL CAUSTIC MIRACLE LIQUID DRAIN CLEANERS! LOL, your asking for much bigger problems. She spent 475.00 adding a 2" clean out and cabling, none o fteh trap primers are working, I go back Tuesday, she will be lucky if her bill is under 2K for me just to get "some" portions of the system to par. If you don't do PM plumbing work expect big problems.
Indeed when it comes to plumbing, nothing lasts forever. It is amazing how many of my clients over the years always seem to come off w/ the comment;" We have lived here "X" years and never had a problem! " Eventually every last piece of pipe in a cast iron and galvanaized waste and vent system will need to be replaced. Newer plastic systems, when installed correctly, with clean outs everywhere, and hydrojetted at least every 5 years, will outlive our childrens great grand children, SEPTIC TANKS, moreso their drainfields, will all fail eventually, you have to service them from time to time weather they need it or not.
Next tuesday I go back to a restaurant, just a sandwich shop, no Preventitive Maintenence (PM) cabling or jetting over the years, they have been pouring BLEACH down the drain, IT IS SO FREAKING BAD FOR YOUR DRAINS, DO NOT DO IT, STOP IT IMEDIATLY AS WELL AS ALL CAUSTIC MIRACLE LIQUID DRAIN CLEANERS! LOL, your asking for much bigger problems. She spent 475.00 adding a 2" clean out and cabling, none o fteh trap primers are working, I go back Tuesday, she will be lucky if her bill is under 2K for me just to get "some" portions of the system to par. If you don't do PM plumbing work expect big problems.
Last edited:
Brad_Blazer
Veteran Member
Owners manual link here:
Homeowner's Manual
Homeowner's Manual
Artisan
Veteran Member
"Not everyone agrees on the effectiveness of additives."
I want to be clear, if you don't pump chemicals into your septic, if your good to it and do not flood it or fill it w/ trash and food particles DO NOTHING.
If you have concerns, I would use Bio Clean "." . I think that is the jest of what the original poster is after in opinion.
Here is another septic "guide", from the EPA.
I see many a company producing their own manuals, and they are usually slanted towards trying to get you to buy there widget.
I want to be clear, if you don't pump chemicals into your septic, if your good to it and do not flood it or fill it w/ trash and food particles DO NOTHING.
If you have concerns, I would use Bio Clean "." . I think that is the jest of what the original poster is after in opinion.
Here is another septic "guide", from the EPA.
I see many a company producing their own manuals, and they are usually slanted towards trying to get you to buy there widget.
cougar21300
Member
The tank itself is not the problem when it comes to failed systems. Usually the problem is a result of not getting your tank pumped out often enough. When this happens the floating scum layer will get pushed by the baffles that are intended and down into the field, coating it with an inpenetrable layer. By having the tank regularly pumped you not only removing the inert scum buildup, you are also allowing the field to "rest" and re-aerate.
Some good points are pointed out in the above posts and here are a few more; a garbage disposal is counted as a full bath and is a major factor when designing the septic system... liquid soaps are generally a little better for your system than bar soaps, bar soaps often use fats as solidfiers... and finally a simple upgrade to some older systems is to add a vent at the far end of the field (the candycanes you often see). This vent in combination with your roof vents will allow a LOT more oxygen to be drawn in for the beneficial bacteria to use in breaking down the organics.
Here is a really good site for learning about modern septic systems; Septic System | Leach Field | Onsite Wastewater Treatment | Presby Environmental
Some good points are pointed out in the above posts and here are a few more; a garbage disposal is counted as a full bath and is a major factor when designing the septic system... liquid soaps are generally a little better for your system than bar soaps, bar soaps often use fats as solidfiers... and finally a simple upgrade to some older systems is to add a vent at the far end of the field (the candycanes you often see). This vent in combination with your roof vents will allow a LOT more oxygen to be drawn in for the beneficial bacteria to use in breaking down the organics.
Here is a really good site for learning about modern septic systems; Septic System | Leach Field | Onsite Wastewater Treatment | Presby Environmental
I've built three places in country w/septic systems. I am in the camp that believes you don't use a garbage disposal, instead get a dog or dump grease and scraps in the woods for the coon. You unhook the washer from the system after inspection, and don't put nothing down the crapper that you didn't eat first. I got zero problems.
