serated plastic blades on trimmer vs string?

[Soundguy]

any opinions on this.. I have a pack of blades and was thinking baout a retrofit.

any downsides?

 

[ricklman]

That's a bit vague, more input please?
If you're talking about retrofitting something like the Grass Gator plastic blades Amazon.com: Grass Gator 4610 Weed II Blade Pack: Patio, Lawn & Garden on a string trimmer head, I'd advise against... Get the $10 Gator and use the blades that are built for it.

 

[QRTRHRS]

I use a plastic head on my Stihl that has three replaceable plastic blades that are not serrated. As long as I stay clear of rocks and metal fence posts etc., the blades hold up quite well. If I need to cut something heavy say briars, I switch to the metal blade. These heads hold up well but I have maybe gone through four or more of them over the years having done alot of fence lines.

I had a trimmer maybe a dozen years ago that I bought a head for with serrated blades. Those blades were not as heavy as the Stihl and did not hold up on a much much lighter duty trimmer.

Having used plastic line on a number of trimmers including the heavy "X" type on a wheeled trimmer, the plastic blades are my choice.

 

[Susanjoyce]

It depends on what you're cutting, i think. I have a Husqvarna 323L trimmer. The pastures have grown a lot of burdock, and even steel coat line wasn't cutting it. I went to the dealer and bought the whole head assembly for plastic blades ($35). With an Allen wrench it's easy to switch heads, and the blades do great on the burdock and any fleshy-type weed. But it's pretty ineffective for grasses; they just wrap around it

 

[Susanjoyce]

QRTRHRS--

How does the Stihl metal blade fit on the trimmer? That's what I went to the dealer for, but he said by law the metal blades require special guards that cost a fortune. He'd gladly sell me the kit, though. I settled for plastic.

 

[TripleR]

We put a set on one of our FS85's and they worked fine if kept away from rocks and concrete. Our grandson demonstrated that quite well and we went back to string.

 

[eds01]

I prefer blades for thicker / taller grass and weeds. I get more grass that wraps around the line head than the blade head. Around fence wire, garden area, etc I still use line - feel like it gives me more control and can still cut without full speed. Blades on mine seem to require high rpm to be effective.

 

[davbin]

I run the Stihl FS90 with a 3-spoke reversible metal blade. Cut's everything from grass up to 2" diameter saplings. Use a metal file to touch up the cutting edge every once-in-a-while and if it get's too worn - turn the blade over for a whole new set of cutting blades.

 

[Soundguy]

yep.. it is those gator blades. i had an empty spool that was worn on the inside and was gonna toss, but retro fit a couple blades on it with chicago fasteners.. havn't installed it yet.. just wondering...

 

[QRTRHRS]

QRTRHRS--

How does the Stihl metal blade fit on the trimmer? That's what I went to the dealer for, but he said by law the metal blades require special guards that cost a fortune. He'd gladly sell me the kit, though. I settled for plastic.

My FS200 came with the plastic head with 3 blades. Just a reverse thread bolt holding the head on. When I go to a steel blade, I need to use this sort of cone shaped disk that keeps the blade off the ground. I would think most Stihl dealers would be glad to help you figure out if you could adapt the head to your trimmer.

FWIW, my trimmer has no special guard from what I can see. When I have a steel blade on, I have steel toes though I have never even come close.

 

[6thgpSF]

I've got a Sthil FS90 and have tried the plastic blades and was'nt impressed.The metal blade works good,just have to be careful around rocks etc. One thing I found odd about the Sthil plastic blades,the instructions say to soak them in water.Maybe someone can shed some insight into why one has to do this....russ

 

[Branchchipper]

I've got a Sthil FS90 and have tried the plastic blades and was'nt impressed.The metal blade works good,just have to be careful around rocks etc. One thing I found odd about the Sthil plastic blades,the instructions say to soak them in water.Maybe someone can shed some insight into why one has to do this....russ

Our Stihl dealer has always said that when soaked in water, the plastic cutters are a bit denser and last a little longer. I did so for years, but they just wore down too quickly regardless. I finally settled on just heavy-duty string instead, with very heavy metal blades on an FS250 as an alternative for the worst stuff. There is a special replacement shield called a Limit Stop that Stihl makes for use with the heavier blades. It is all aluminum, and not that expensive. You can saw down small trees with the FS250 so equipped. We use two different styles of metal blades made locally- one is round and works with the limit stop to cut almost anything (Includes downward-facing shredder blades), and the other is a 3-lobe style that works with the plastic shield and cuts berry canes and such just as well (but doesn't "saw"). We field sharpen them (hand file) several times per day when really using them hard. Any of the metal blades require the steel spacer underneath to keep the blade off of the ground.
Finally, I can attest to the importance of PPE, especially steel-toed boots (and sawyer's chaps) for any hard-core brush cutting, even when using string...

 

[Susanjoyce]

Our Stihl dealer has always said that when soaked in water, the plastic cutters are a bit denser and last a little longer. I did so for years, but they just wore down too quickly regardless. I finally settled on just heavy-duty string instead, with very heavy metal blades on an FS250 as an alternative for the worst stuff. There is a special replacement shield called a Limit Stop that Stihl makes for use with the heavier blades. It is all aluminum, and not that expensive. You can saw down small trees with the FS250 so equipped. We use two different styles of metal blades made locally- one is round and works with the limit stop to cut almost anything (Includes downward-facing shredder blades), and the other is a 3-lobe style that works with the plastic shield and cuts berry canes and such just as well (but doesn't "saw"). We field sharpen them (hand file) several times per day when really using them hard. Any of the metal blades require the steel spacer underneath to keep the blade off of the ground.
Finally, I can attest to the importance of PPE, especially steel-toed boots (and sawyer's chaps) for any hard-core brush cutting, even when using string...

I've now got a really bum shoulder and my Husqvarna L323 has been to the shop one too many times. The last time I was there, I looked at the Stihls, especially the one that takes different attachments. And a friend suggested I get an electric start. Does anyone have experience with either of these, and can advise? Thanks a lot!

(Oh,, and my shins attest to the need for protection. I used to work for a lawn care guy and I approached him to ask a question while he was trimming. He turned--and I screamed. Later, when I'd started to heal, he told me, "That's why you shouldn't be wearing shorts.". I kept wearing them--just poked him with a stick when he was trimming and I needed him.)

 

[JOE G]

I use the Plastic Blades from Stihl ( Cutting head also takes string so you can use both at once ) when I am clearing some real thick or heavier grass. The plastic blades work very well and hold up well also.