Service Code List for 310SG

[chevy791979]

I wonder if I can get a copy of service advisor. Is it digital, interactive, or printed?

Yes, I understand pulse width type solenoid control from some mech/magnetic work I've done. Darn.... that would explain active control. May be an ECU in my immediate future afterall. Going to do your tests this evening or tomorrow.

I'm still first going to check the true engine coolant temperature with an independent source: I.e. a bulb type thermometer sender just to make sure there isn't something there.
BTW, doing that has required a bizarre brass fitting to get from the 14Mx1.5 thread of the sensor sender to the standard 3/8" tapered pipe thread of the gauge.
If I were more up to date mechanically I'd probably use an IR gun on the alum. thermostat housing .. that is IF I had an IR gun.... I'll have one by next week, though. Any excuse for another tool.
..
I am doing all this extra temp check partly for curiousity & partly because of my reluctant to change thermostat for new one because I have never fitted up JD's peculiar half-inch steel bypass tube from water pump. Local JD shop said just flex the tube out of the way and put new rubber sleeve in the housing.....but that sounds strange to me. I considered cutting and hose-splicing that silly tube. I do have new rubber sleeve, but have never used that type of sleeve and don't know if it goes into thermostat housing first or put it onto the tubing and force it into the housing. Whatever the case, it just doesn't look like a very leakproof connection to me & reluctant to mess with mine. Am I being too shy?
Thanks for all,
rScotty

Yes you are. Lol. They only press in with minimal press fit. And rarely leak. Put it in the note of the housing first and lube the tube up and slide it in until the other end lines up

 

[rScotty]

Check continuity on B1 ecu connector and terminal A of the cool temp sensor. And D3 ECU and B of temp sensor connector. Should have close to zero ohms. Please don't force DVOM leads in the terminals of any connectors. It is very easy to do if you don't have the right test leads. And don't over torque the 1/4 is boot that holds the connector on the ECU itself. View attachment 610576View attachment 610577

Did everything you mentioned and thanks for the helping hand.
Checked B1 to A & D3 to B. Close to zero ohms. Neither one has continuity to ground. All that is good. Wiring & underhood condition of tractor is excellent. We are a dry, desert climate here. Temp Sender terminals are good (new).

Removed engine controller, tapped it and squeezed it. From the patina and slight dust around the EC top cover it shows no water or fuel has touched it in the last few years. Appears tightly sealed. However, it does have slight bulge to top of EC case - although that is not unusual for a sealed unit at our altitude (7000'). Squeezed iEC box and tapped on it - key on; not running - all the while watching temp gauge. No response. Repeat; still no response. Decided to reinstall....Inspected pins: nice, no corrosion. Did a light cleaning. Remounted and 310 ran perfectly for an hour. Temp stayed low. Hooray! Is it fixed?!?

Tried again next morining and display says to check error code. Tried reset menu to clear codes, no luck bringing up the reset menu. I've never been able to get to that menu via key on, hold select 5+sec. should bring up menu?

So I Started engine anyway, & temp gauge went to full hot just ten seconds after starting. Now I know something is wrong. It ran fine for an hour yesterday but today 30 seconds later alarm went off. Hour display has small triangle under first digit that is flashing.... what does that mean? Gauge stayed in hot even after turning tractor off. Started several more times. Temp gauge irratic. Sometimes low, sometimes high. Yet I know that coolant not yet even warm. It still runs normally other than the gauge. Removed EC again, check plug connection. It's perfect. Reinstall with the same irratic results. Confused....beginning to believe EC is to blame.

Questions: Can I take EC out & to my dealer and have it tested?Any advantage to that? Does inability to cancel codes mean anything? Could retained error codes possibly be the problem? What is the meaning of that flashing triangle under total hour on readout?
And finally.... my best guess is that it is a poor connection inside the EC itself. I'm a careful craftsman.... any downside to carefully taking the EC cover off and having a look?

Thanks, rScotty

 

[chevy791979]

It cannot be tested on a bench. These ECU had a problem and any bulge was part of the signs of it happening.

The SDM monitor, when you see a triangle, are there ever any words coming up in the LCD screen? Like diag or prog?

 

[chevy791979]

Does the select button do anything?

 

[rScotty]

It cannot be tested on a bench. These ECU had a problem and any bulge was part of the signs of it happening.

The SDM monitor, when you see a triangle, are there ever any words coming up in the LCD screen? Like diag or prog?

No other words. Inverted triangle only flashes in the first position (total hours). The select button simply steps through hrs,rpm,volts,& repeats. Sometimes it will show error code F450 (coolant sensor <5v?)...sometimes not.

 

[chevy791979]

Ok. So the button still works. That's good.

 

[rScotty]

Ok. So the button still works. That's good.

Yes, other than the false temp reading and error code it's a good running machine - everything works well except slow Hy-Gard leak (quart/year) in hose running from bottom of trans/hydraulic fluid reservoir to suction filter. That's nasty, but not fatal. Hose has hose clamps but will probably have tech replace hose entire (whole goods) if I'm paying him to come up with new engine controller. I'm getting too old to wrestle it. My JD commercial equipment dealer is good & helpful.... service manager especially. Too bad they are hours away.
rScotty

 

[chevy791979]

There used to be a adapter to program some ECU without the machine. But if you are paying them, I'd have them double check what you have done. I'd want to verify the SDM is working as it should before just putting on an ECU. There is a slight chance the temp gauge is not working correctly also. Only way to verify is with service advisor hooked to it and doing a live reading and compare the two

 

[rScotty]

There used to be a adapter to program some ECU without the machine. But if you are paying them, I'd have them double check what you have done. I'd want to verify the SDM is working as it should before just putting on an ECU. There is a slight chance the temp gauge is not working correctly also. Only way to verify is with service advisor hooked to it and doing a live reading and compare the two

I'm going to schedule a service appt. This EC & testing will be a nice clean job, unless we do the hose, too. That is less fun...
rScotty

 

[chevy791979]

May save you some coin if you drain the tank before he gets there. May ask first though