Setting Height on Brushhog

[8N_John]

How do you set the height on a brushhog? I only have one hole on the vertical bar that attaches to the wheel on the back of my brushhog. Do you set the height simply with the hydraulics? Seems like the hydraulics would control the height of the front of the mower while the back is unadjustable?

 

[DK35vince]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I only have one hole on the vertical bar that attaches to the wheel on the back of my brushhog.
)</font>

If you want or need more adjustment in the back of the cutter, add more holes to the vertical bar..

 

[Glenn9643]

Cutting height adjustment on all that I've ever used was done by raising or lowering the tailwheel using different holes in the framework. Quality and speed of cut can be affected by whether the cutter is level or the front edge higher. Seems that running level provides more "mulching" or chopping of the residue while raising the front a little reduces the load on the tractor and allows a little faster cutting.

 

[btolle]

Do you know what brand of cutter? Or have a picture?

Bill Tolle

 

[ronjhall]

John
I don't know if you have seen this thread on rotary cutter adjustments. It may help. Click Here.

 

[Syncro]

Thanks for posting the Link Ron, I learned something. All these years I've been setting the front edge higher, seemed logical, but after reading the article the front edge needs to be set lower to keep from cutting the grass twice. Makes sense now that I think about it, just never occured to me. Goes to show how much there is to know and TBN sure has been a big help. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[8N_John]

Thanks for the info and link. My brushhog is a Ford 951 "Special". Attached is a link. Not sure how the previous owner set the height in the back?

 

[Glenn9643]

I tried to crop and enlarge the applicable areas of your picture to clarify. Maybe spacers over the "axleshaft" that the wheel is attached to to lengthen or shorten it?
From the picture it looks like the "bushing" assembly at the end of the supporting framework that the axleshaft goes through has been replaced at some point. If not kept well greased they will wear to an oval and the tail wheel will bind when turning. Maybe when this was done the spacers were left off? Is there some sort of key and washer at the top of the axleshaft to prevent the wheel from dropping down or off when lifted?

 

[djradz]

That flat piece of plate, in the middle of the back edge of the deck and extending up to the wheel support assembly, measuring about 2" x 9" or so usually has multiple holes in it. If not, I'd drill several about 1-1/2" apart. Moving the tricycle up or down and bolting through a different hole should be all you need. HOWEVER, with the whole thing bent and the wheel laying somewhat on it's side, it's never going to work well. Get it straightned before something breaks again.

I just noticed, that maybe the arms are welded rather than bolted at the front of the wheel assembly. If that's the case, I'd change that too, otherwise, nothing's moving.

Out at the front end, I'd suggest "check chains".

There should be a hole and then a washer (or even a couple) and then a cotter pin to hold the wheel spindle in place when the hog is lifted.

 

[DmansPadge]

Here is a good rookie question! The brushhog I want to buy has the adjustment on the bar for the tail wheel. But when you are cutting do you lower your 3PH all the way down?

 

[sneaky_pete]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( ...when you are cutting do you lower your 3PH all the way down?)</font>

Ron,

On our tractors without position control on the three-point hitch, you need some way to get back to the same height over and over. My dealer gave me a pair of check chains, which accomplish this. They both are attached to the big pin on the tractor side of the top link, and one each goes down to the implement pins on both lower arms of the 3PH. They have an adustment slot on the upper ends that will hold the chain, in increments of one link. Once I have my bush hog levelled with the lower arm turnbuckle, I raise or lower the 3PH to get the front of the mower the right distance above the shop floor (about 2-3" for mine), then set the check chains as close as possible to that. Then, every time I'm ready to mow I just dump the 3ph all the way down until the check chains are holding it up, and it is at the same hight as before. You only have to do this once; now I know that I need four links on the check chains for my bush hog and six links for my box blade.

If it is hard to visualize from my description, do a search on "check chains"; a few months ago someone posted a parts manual diagram of a set that would make it all clear.

 

[djradz]

I agree, check chains is the only way to go! Lower the control for the lower arms all the way and let the chains control the height. I've posted this before, but here's the setup for my mower and my hog's the same.

 

[Soundguy]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( But when you are cutting do you lower your 3PH all the way down? )</font>

Not unless you wanted the hog to drag on its rails /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif. You usually keep the front anywhere fron 2+" up depending on what you are cutting.. etc.

Soundguy

 

[Syncro]

I must be loosing something here, don't you have an adjustable 'stop' on the 3pt quadrant?

 

[Soundguy]

Yes it does.. however.. check chains a popular if your lift leaks down.

Also.. older 9n / 2n didn't have position control just draft control. A specific position on the quadrant doesn't necescarilly mean the implement is in the same place on the lift every time.. its a draft issue...

( 8n does have position control.. but this fellows hyd's are worn.. )

Soundguy

 

[DmansPadge]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I agree, check chains is the only way to go! Lower the control for the lower arms all the way and let the chains control the height. I've posted this before, but here's the setup for my mower and my hog's the same. )</font>

Thanks for the picture. I understand a lot better now after looking at it!

 

[8N_John]

"They both are attached to the big pin on the tractor side of the top link, and one each goes down to the implement pins on both lower arms of the 3PH."

Does anyone have a pic they can post showing this setup...it is probably what I will do.

Thanks for the info. Yes, I do have a pin that keeps the wheel from coming off. I may put some extra holes in the vertical bracket to help set height at the back of the hog.

 

[Soundguy]

Here's one way to do it. in this pic, the fellow attatched the tops of the chains to a bracket he bolted under his seat.. then ran the chains down to his lift arms where he attatched them at the middle of the arms.

most of us simply get or make a set of brackets that hooks to the pin in the toplink at the tractor.. then run chains from those brackets down to the pins on the implement, and have the chains welded to a ring or flat tab with a hole in it to slide over the pin where the lift arm hooks up.

Then rais the implement to the desired height. set the chains in the top bracket and then relax the hyds and the chains hold everything up.

Also.. a word of caution.. you should not use the top hole in your 8n's 3 hole rocker for anything heavy.. use only the bottom hole.. ( it's a draft issue ).

This image shows the 'normal' top brackets at the toplink that have slots cut in them to hold the chains at different positions.

Here's a pic from places like farm/fleet and some tsc stores. It shows a chain with the eye end to go around the implement pin, and the seperate bracket that attatches to the toplink. You would use two sets as pictured.

Soundguy

 

[8N_John]

Thanks Soundguy - exactly what I needed.

 

[djradz]

It should be noted that the chain setup in the first, smaller, picture (dirtier tractor) would not work well for maintaining a constant level over varying terrain, although it would substitute for weak hydraulics. The chain setup most folks use, and as shown in the other pictures, when coupled with a moveable/flexible top link connection, truly works to allow the deck (mower or brush hog) to follow the terrain. In this latter setup, the lower links are free to move and not bound by the chains. (soundguy, I know you know this, but others, less practiced in such things, may not)