Setting Rear Height on Brush Hog

[geneP]

Hi Duane, I was really discussing the merits of using limit chains connected to the mower rather than the lower lift arms to reduce the uneven cut caused by the length of the lift arms. As the front of the tractor rises and falls on uneven terrain, the length of the lift arms causes the front of the mower to rise and fall. A flexible top link usually allows the tail wheel to stay on the ground, but it is set higher than the front. The picture I so inaptly described was of a blue tractor and brush hog. The top link appeared to be a rigid flat bar with another thinner flat strap welded on edge on the top of the top link. This thinner flat bar had a series of "U" shaped notches machined in it to provide spaces for adjustment of the height of the front of the mower. There was a ~5/8" round bar stock bent to an inverted "V" shape that rested in the "U" shaped notches and had a length of chain welded to each end. The chains were connected to the mower just below the lower hitch pins. If I remember correctly, this was supposed to be an early Dearborn version of limit chains. I searched the archives and couldn't find the picture again. I would like to find the picture again along with an explanation of how well the system worked. I appologize for the long post and vague description, but I'm intrigued by teh concept.

 

[djradz]

OK, I understand. For reference, the chains on my mower deck (and brush hog) are attached to the lower portion of the deck rather than the three point. See attachment.

I don't know who posted the picture your referring to, but I do seem to recall such.

 

[geneP]

Duane, Thanks for the response. I found that picture many times in my searchs. Imagine running the limit chains over your top link.....That opens up a lot of questions to me. I know I could do a lot of trial and error experiments, but talking to some one who has used it would, I think, save a lot of time.

 

[To20Chris]

When I use the hog on my TO20, chains are a requirement (no position control). But it's the tail wheel that sets the hight - are you sure yours is not adjustable? I'm not familiar with that model. On my Woods, the tail wheel is adjusted by moving part of the wheel support bracket to different postions hoizontally along the mower frame (gotta move a bolt).

I set mine oposite of Soundguy - I move the tailwheel, and then adjust the front to get the desired angle, but you end up the same place anyway. You can only adjust the cut heigth a little bit by playing with the lift (whether it be chains or hydraulic) - and it is not independant of the angle. It took a long time to figure this out, it seems like with all those adjustments, you should at least be able to change the cut from the seat, but no.

If you tighten the top link (chain or solid), you just make it so that the mower cannot follow the terrain. When the nose of the tractor goes down, the mower lifts and does not cut. The tail wheel is intended to be in contact all the time when you're mowing.

When I am transporting, I tighten the top link so I can lift the back end high. When I am cutting, I set it so that when I pull the lift lever all the way up, I'll get a reasonable amount of lift on the mower, and still have it able to float. You want to be able to at least lift it if you whack something unpleasant, although with my old Ferguson, this can take some time.

 

[Soundguy]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I set mine oposite of Soundguy - I move the tailwheel, and then adjust the front to get the desired angle, but you end up the same place anyway. You can only adjust the cut heigth a little bit by playing with the lift (whether it be chains or hydraulic) - and it is not independant of the angle )</font>

I do initially set the tail wheel to give me a range for the front to move thru. However.. my mower does have a flixible "U" link a the toplink hookup giving about 4" of play.. it ends up letting you go from almost a level deck to having the skids on the ground.. etc. Works decent onthe 8n and NAA.. I still use the chains though as on your to-20, to make sure the hyds stay put.

Soundguy

 

[have_blue]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( OK, I understand. For reference, the chains on my mower deck (and brush hog) are attached to the lower portion of the deck rather than the three point. See attachment. )</font>

djradz,

Maybe I'm looking at it wrong, but in the picture, it looks like lifting the 3PH puts the top link in a severe bind.

 

[Soundguy]

Setup as it is.. the rear of the mower should be able to drop down and follow terain if he drives over a hill. if that pic is on flat land.. IMHO.. I would shortent he toplink so that the flaoting link was in the middle of it's travel.. etc.. that way it had play in either direction.

In any case.. the mower should still be able to be lifted with the floating link cammed over like it is in the pic, or extended(short)..

soundguy

 

[djradz]

Not sure why you would think there would be binding. As soundguy notes, I probably should have the top link a little shorter, so there's more play/travel when going in a valley, but the length it is give me a little more float when going over a hill. With it long like it is, in a valley it will bottom out and then the whole deck will ride on the rear deck wheels, causing both the front and back of the deck to come up. I really wish the mower had a bigger top connection or one with greater movement, but this has worked for me for about 20 years now, so I guess I'll keep it.

If I've missinterpreted you comment, please explain further. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif