Century 3045 (48 hp), R-4's, C50 HL loader, C-86 BackHoe, Cub Cadet Z-force 44 and 1042
Glad to hear it. What a relief huh?
Now just make sure you have some really nice leather gloves to handle that metal and take your time with that. That stuff can leave some nasty scars behind.
Best of luck!
we carried one into the center of the building, lifted one side up onto the top plate, then lifted the other side up onto the top plate, the peak of the truss would be hanging down towards the ground, then, i would get up on a 12' stepladder, my dad got a 12' 2x4 with a 'V' cut out of the end of it, he took that 2x4 and pushed the peak of the truss up, then i would nail the brace to it from the 12' stepladder, went really smooth!
Now im trying to figure out how to cut the rest of the posts off, they are all sticking up past the trusses, i would use a chainsaw if i had one, but i dont and dont know if that would be the best way anyways..here is a pic so you will know what im talking about when i say the posts are sticking up past the trusses..its not my pole barn but using the pic as a reference
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( trying to figure out how to cut the rest of the posts off, ) )</font>
Reciprocating saw is the low-sweat method. They are a very versitile tool.
Congratulations. You can be rightfully proud of your accomplishment. If you get any wind, don't forget to strap the trusses to the top plate so your roof does not take off and fly like the wing it resembles.
4x6 posts,well, cant use a circular saw because i would have to cut on both sides of the posts to go all the way through them and i will hit the trusses on one side, need something that has a lengthy blade that sticks way out with nothing else in the way..
cut below the top chord of the truss. why does it need to go all the way to the bottom side of the tin? If you think it does or just want it to cut half way then use a hand saw
need something that has a lengthy blade that sticks way out with nothing else in the way.. )</font>
It's great to hear you've got those trusses up !
I'd suggest a Sawzall . If you don't have one they are available at rental shops . Another way would be to partially cut through with a circular saw ,and the use a hand saw to finish the job . John
I used a reciprocating saw on mine. Put the 12" blade on it and was done in about a minute or so each. Took more time to climb up and get yourself braced then it did to actually cut the pole. Just make sure nobody is around when they fall...
Hopefully this weekend they are calling for some decent weather, I wanna get back at it. I'm tired of only having half a roof. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif Haven't had much bad weather this winter, but what we have had seems like it has been on Sundays. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Reciprocating saw is the low-sweat method. They are a very versitile tool. )</font>
That's the best $100 you could buy. I was in a similar situation where I HAD to have one to cut holes for windows on our old house. At the time, my wife said we couldn't afford to buy it, but I use it almost as much now as my circular saw.
I agree with Inspector507. A bowsaw is what you need. You can get them at any hardware store for under $15. I've had mine for about 14 years. It was the second yard tool I ever bought, right after a lawn rake. I still use it occasionally when I don't want or need my chainsaw. It still has the original blade - never sharpened.
Be sure and oil the blade after each use so it doesn't rust.
Andy,
I agree, that would be the best $100 spent, but he seems to be limited right now in the fund dept. That's the only reason I suggested a bow saw. I have both, so I'd use the recip saw with a 12" remodeling blade in it myself /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
REAL agressive teeth.