Egon
Epic Contributor
Skillsaw with plywood blade reversed and wear gloves and gogles.
Egon
Egon
setting trusses with only 2?
- Thread starter mopower440
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BXMMCC
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Metal cutting blades for hand circular saws are available. I put chain saw oil on the cut line with a foam paint brush before cutting; worked great. Used mineral spirits to clean it up - it was pretty messy. Yep, safety glasses and ear plugs are a must!
BXMMCC
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Evasive1
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All three are great suggestions. Don't make a big deal about cutting the metal it is easy and fun. (best part of the job at least for me.) /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
I use all three suggestions depending on what kind of cut. The Wiss snips are a must and you will use them for everything after this job for years to come. The plywood blade backwards works great and so do the metal cutting blades for a circular saw. Metal cutting blade for circular saw 3 pack at Wal-mart under $8.00. (Black & Decker 7" cutting abrasive saw blade part #63-217w3 metal A24R, looks like a skinny grinder wheel) Old used circular saw blade put on backwards free.
As stated leather gloves, goggles and ear protection an absolute must!!
I use all three suggestions depending on what kind of cut. The Wiss snips are a must and you will use them for everything after this job for years to come. The plywood blade backwards works great and so do the metal cutting blades for a circular saw. Metal cutting blade for circular saw 3 pack at Wal-mart under $8.00. (Black & Decker 7" cutting abrasive saw blade part #63-217w3 metal A24R, looks like a skinny grinder wheel) Old used circular saw blade put on backwards free.
As stated leather gloves, goggles and ear protection an absolute must!!
rambler
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What everyone is saying - a metal snips & leather gloves.
A Skill saw with a reversed old or a dedicated metal sawblade, eye protection, ear protection, same leather gloves as above. This will get more done, but you'll need the snips. Saw will be about as easy (much noisier!) as cutting the same amount of wood.
Do _not_ skimp on the eye & ear protection, we are not kidding on that part! This is for real, not those endless pointless safety disclaimers in the manuals we get. You need it with the saw, & anyone helping you too. For real.
--->Paul
A Skill saw with a reversed old or a dedicated metal sawblade, eye protection, ear protection, same leather gloves as above. This will get more done, but you'll need the snips. Saw will be about as easy (much noisier!) as cutting the same amount of wood.
Do _not_ skimp on the eye & ear protection, we are not kidding on that part! This is for real, not those endless pointless safety disclaimers in the manuals we get. You need it with the saw, & anyone helping you too. For real.
--->Paul
OP
mopower440
Gold Member
Good deal! well, i just got in from staring at the roof for a while..lol.. trying to figure out something, tomorrow im going to try to finish nailing on the purlins, i remembered you all said to break the purlins on a different truss each time for added strength, i cant figure out how to do it without wasting a lot of wood with the 4 ft. centers..as of now, i ended up using 3 12' 2x4's per row, waisting about 3' of board, the roof is 30 ft. long plus a 10 1/2 overhang on each end...
Glenn9643
Veteran Member
" i remembered you all said to break the purlins on a different truss each time for added strength"
I think what was meant was that you shouldn't let all of the purlins break on the same truss. If you have 8 runs of purlin on a side try to stagger the breaks for each run.
I think what was meant was that you shouldn't let all of the purlins break on the same truss. If you have 8 runs of purlin on a side try to stagger the breaks for each run.
Egon
Epic Contributor
For some reason I've always been under the impression that the purlin breaks are joined between trusses as this will make a stronger unit.
Egon
Egon
Evasive1
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Yep,
It is okay if some of the breaks end up on the same truss. Just alternate it so that no two rows of purlins that are next to each other end up on the same truss.
It is okay if some of the breaks end up on the same truss. Just alternate it so that no two rows of purlins that are next to each other end up on the same truss.
Glenn9643
Veteran Member
Egon,
That's how I've been doing mine. Just let the lumber go and splice it with a scab underneath and screws. However, some people are hell bent on splicing at the truss so I didn't want to go into all that other. If I was splicing at the truss, I wouldn't have them all break on the same truss. If joining between trusses, I would have the break on alternate trusses also (not all between the same two trusses)
That's how I've been doing mine. Just let the lumber go and splice it with a scab underneath and screws. However, some people are hell bent on splicing at the truss so I didn't want to go into all that other. If I was splicing at the truss, I wouldn't have them all break on the same truss. If joining between trusses, I would have the break on alternate trusses also (not all between the same two trusses)
