setting trusses with only 2?

[NIXON]

Now that you've got the sawzall /pole done . You are going to keep us up to date on the next step of your garage , aren't you ? Have you decided on the siding your going to use ? A lot of us have been watching your progress from the start . And You've done well ! It's almost like it was my own garage /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
John

 

[mopower440]

well, the next step, i was going to sheath the roof, then pour the floor, then sheath the sidewalls, but may not do any of it for a few weeks due to money, have to pay the kgb, or umm i mean the IRS..i wanted to get the roof sheathing up, that way the ground underneath it could really dry up good and then pour the cement, but the thing that has me worried is this, rememeber way on back i was telling you that some of the posts, mainly on one wall, are only 6" in the ground due to a very long large rock underneath, well, im afraid that if i sheath the roof and not the walls, that when the tornado season starts, the wind might pick it up since the walls wont be on there to keep the wind out..i was planning on drilling a hole in each pole that isnt bried deep and run rebar through it into the garage and then when the cement is poured, that would anchor it to the ground.. the building is nice and sturdy, but im just afraid that if i sheath the roof and one of these wild tennessee spring storms comes up that it might pick it up, probably wouldnt but it still is on my mind, uunless anyone knows how to anchor the poles until the floor is poured or walls are put up?

 

[Evasive1]

A little late now, but what we use to do a lot when we would strike solid rock would be to drill a 5/8" hole into the rock as far down as we needed and drill the bottom of the pole (4x4 or 4x6). We would drive a 5/8" steel rod into the rock and drive the post down onto the steel rod securing it all with 2 part epoxy. Worked great and saved a great amount of time not having to jackhammer out holes!

 

[wroughtn_harv]

First, did you use hurricane straps?

Hurricane straps are formed steel brackets designed to make the truss and the top plate one.

If you did use hurricane straps, good. If you didn't go to your local box store and get some.

As for securing the roof for storms. A temporary anchor like they use to secure mobiles will work if properly installed. You can get those at your local box store or TSC.

You screw them into the soil where you can and then secure the framework of the building to it with a chain or cable.

If you've got good rock, granite etc, then drilling a hole in at an angle and installing an eye bolt will work too.

The guys much more book learned than I am will be able to explain the size and depth of the hole and eyebolt.

 

[chucko]

if you leave the trusses in the weather with nothing to protect them they will start to look real bad real fast. As they get wet then dry out over and over the plates will work right out of them

 

[Charlie_in_TX]

I'm with harv on that one (go figure). On the posts only 6" deep, clear the dirt next to the post. Drill in the rock with a 1/2" drill. Epoxy in an eyebolt. Do the same on the other side of the pole. Drill a dole in the post and run a cable thru the eyebolts and post. Secure the cable ends.

 

[mopower440]

Guys, the trusses are secured to the top plate, the book i used to build this said to leave the posts sticking up past the top plate 4" to nail the trusses to, and i did, then for the trusses that go between posts, you nail a 2x6 stub between the 2 2x12 truss supports(top plates) and you nail the trusses to them, i was worried about the wind picking the whole thing up..there is about 5 posts that are not that far in the ground, the rest of them are 4' in the ground.

 

[rambler]

I would anchor down the 'short' posts as others have suggested, with eyebolts in the rock prefered, or if you want to avoid drilling the rock then the longer screw-in-the-dirt anchor eyebolts & cables up to the roof. I'd try to get these close to the 'short' poles.

Me, I would make the roof a priority (after anchoring the short poles) as soon as possible, get it sheathed & metaled (or whatever material you are using for the finished roof - metal is by far the best bang for the buck imho). Siding & floor work can be done anytime, but those new trusses will weather away quickly without a covering.

I'd strongly think total roof first.

--->Paul

 

[mopower440]

yeah, im getting to work on it..now, about cutting the metal, i have questions about that, on a previous post someone said that you use snip to cut this siding metal, is that true? are they like big scissors or what? I know ill have to cut the metal at an agle along the gables at the gable ends, thats going to be trick seeing as the metal isnt even flat, you know how its got the ridges in it to strengthen it and all..this has been on my mind for a while, thats why i am thinking of using the T11

 

[NIXON]

Mowpower
You need a good set of WISS snips to cut the metal .
I don't have the model # handy but they are about 12-14 " long and look like a giant set of scissors . They have red rubber handles . Also , before you use the ,wrap some tape on the parts of your fingers were they touch . Keeps down the wear and tear on your skin /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif John