SEVEN POINT BACKHOE MOUNT

[3RRL]

I couldn't find a source to buy a subframe that fit my KAMA 554 going to the Nardi Backhoe so I made my own. I've read posts about guys who made their own and that gave me the idea. D Krug was a lot of help giving me hints and pictures of the ones he made and what to look for.

One of the things I wanted was to use the factory 3 point in my design. That makes it a lot easier when switching to other implements. Even though the 55hp Kama is sturdy enough to handle the backhoe on the 3 point mount, I wanted to increase the stability to re-assure myself and avoid any damage to the tractor. Especially when digging to the side, where the 3 point is most vulnerable to the sideways forces of the backhoe. I also wanted a 2 piece subframe with very little of it except what is necessary remaining on the tractor.

I have a lot of pictures in doing this project but I'll start by showing the finished subframe and mounts, and some of the machining and welding later.

Here is the first one that shows the lower leg portions that are welded to the underside of the backhoe. The welds are re-inforced and gusseted for strength. Notice the top brackets. They are not going to be connected where I have them here. That is the top link hole that fits the tractor. They will be connected to those holes in the brackets just below the seat.

 

[3RRL]

This picture shows how the top side brackets are attached to the backhoe and will then be connected to the shorter brackets that will be welded to the tractor. It also shows the regular top lonk attachment. All these connection take a Ø7/8" hitch pin that is easily inserted and removed. These top side connections along with the regular top link hole now gives 3 connecting points topside. The new brackets reduces side flex where the regular top link hole has very little resistance to side flex by itself. The new top side brackets will remain on the backhoe when disconnected.

 

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After measuring, I fixtured up the top side brackets for welding. I used 7018 for all welds.

 

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This picture shows part of the FEL support mount. I welded my subframe to the end of it that bolts to the rear end. You can see it on the right side of the red subframe. This section remains on the tractor.

 

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Of course I had to tack weld the subframe into positon first so I got the spacing correct. Then I dis-assembled the FEL mounting brackets to complete the welding all around using 7018 rod. Remember all this installation occured on my rural property so it was not uncommon to be lying on my back in the mud and rain while doing this. Had to scrape off the occasional spider and other bugs off my forehead too.

 

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Once they were off the tractor and welded my wife, Loretta, primed and painted them up for me.

 

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Now the FEL mounts and my subframe brackets are back on the tractor. If you noticed the notch and the hole for the Ø7/8" pin in the previous picture, you can see where the leg from the backhoe will connect to it in this picture. The backhoe leg seems to be drooping down and it is....it's not welded to the backhoe at this point. I had to make sure of the line-up and straightness and also that the connecting pin would slide in and out of the two first. Notice also the relationship between the backhoe leg and the lower lift arm and the stabilizer bar. They all miss each other. The subframe part welded to the tractor FEL is directly below the stabilizer arm so that it can move freely up and down and sideways even with the subframe connected. This location is critical to allow me to use the tractor's lower lift arms to pick up the backhoe and position the other connections by using the backhoe itself and it's stabilizing legs.

 

[3RRL]

This picture shows how I positioned the compnents to miss the tractors stabilizer arms and lower lift arms so they don't have to be taken off or not used during the use of the backhoe. Although it looks closer, there is about 2-½" to 3" clearance from the rear tire.

 

[3RRL]

Where the subframe connects to each other, I re-inforced the 2" x 4" steel tube with 5/8" bar stock and welded inside. Then I drilled the Ø7/8" holes for the hitch pins. This will help in wear over time and makes a stronger connection.

 

[3RRL]

This is how I fixtured the legs of the subframe that are welded to the backhoe. Notice the angles in them to allow them to be narrower near the rear tire and wider underneath the backhoe. This adds again to the sideways stability. In this picture I had not added the portion that goes up to meet the bottom of the backhoe.