Shallow well pump selection

[southerniltractor]

I intend to use 240V pump and take Valveman's advice on a submersible pump configuration. Thoughts on putting the pressure tank in the well itself? I don't have a heated building handy for placement of that component.

 

[southerniltractor]

And yes, I'll pump out that well several more times before we test the water. My neighbor has a perfect pump setup to do that job.

 

[Dwellonroof]

I intend to use 240V pump and take Valveman's advice on a submersible pump configuration. Thoughts on putting the pressure tank in the well itself? I don't have a heated building handy for placement of that component.

I wonder how would you support the tank? Maybe from the top? would you need a stainless tank?

 

[Valveman]

When used with a Cycle Stop Valve a little 4.5 gallon size tank is all you need. The whole thing will fit in a 14X14X24 box and only weigh about 15 pounds even full of water.

 

[Valveman]

There is also a CSV and a long skinny tank made to fit inside 5" well casing, but probably wouldn't be needed in a large diameter well. Moisture in the pressure switch is the biggest problem with putting everything in the well. You can just spray a metal tank with Flex seal or get a fiberglass one if the moisture is a problem. We also make a kit where the CSV goes in or at the well and there is an extra manifold with the 4.5 gallon tank and switch that can go at the house or anywhere else you want.

 

[Valveman]

Here is a picture from one of our reviews that looks like it would work in your large diameter well.

 

[ponytug]

Just do the math on the pressure tank. For water, 1gal=8lbs, plus the weight of the tank.

If it were me, I would put the tank next to the well and insulate it, but that's just me.

All the best,

Peter

 

[Valveman]

Just do the math on the pressure tank. For water, 1gal=8lbs, plus the weight of the tank.

If it were me, I would put the tank next to the well and insulate it, but that's just me.

All the best,

Peter

Yep, but the 4.5 gallon tank only holds 1 gallon of water just like an 80 gallon pressure tank only has 20 gallons of water.

 

[Oaktree]

If it were me, I would put the tank next to the well and insulate it, but that's just me.

I would probably do the same and put a light bulb inside the shelter for a heat source in sub-freezing temperatures.

 

[Valveman]

I have seen lots of well houses burn down because of heat lamps. Use something like this oil filled heater. It has a thermostat and doesn't get hot enough to start a fire.

 

[southerniltractor]

Funny how I run headlong into a "small" project and discover so much once I start doing research and get advice from this forum in particular.

We intend to run the powered water as I described in my first post and we also require a hand pump on the well. I thought a few hundred bucks for a cheap pump, wire, pipe and fittings, borrow my friend's small backhoe, and BOOM, done! This little project is a bit larger than I anticipated.

In hindsight, I would have roughed in plumbing to allow the pressure tank, CSV and switch to reside in my workshop. Then I could have built an insulated box around the equipment and placed a small heater in there for the cold months. At the time we built it, I never anticipated this project and we were trying to cut costs. Save a penny to spend a dollar later!

At this point, I need to determine where I can place the pressure tank, CSV and switch. My retired general contractor buddy insists it is perfectly acceptable to place this equipment in the well on a platform I'll have to build into the well top.

Appreciate all your guidance to this point. I'll keep you posted!

 

[PILOON]

My 2 cent suggestion would be a pump house of sorts to house the tank and controls.
Be it a mere 3 ft X 3 ft 'house' the idea being to get it away from the humid environment of the well.
Heck even with minimal insulation (use foam board) even a 60 watt bulb would provide enough heat.

I had a client that had his well controls in a damp humid location and I was amazed as to the collection of pressure controls he had scattered around. He'd had to change every 6-8 months!

Another client had a shallow well with a small cabin that I insulated and used a fan to distribute the heat. (gets mighty cold here). Heat and fan helped rid the humidity and that installation has run trouble free for some 7-8 years now.
Foam board insulation is what to use as wools simply become rodent nests.

 

[the old grind]

IIRC neither switch or tank needs to be in the well or outside of it, in a structure, installed 'inline', etc.

 

[Jstpssng]

I have seen lots of well houses burn down because of heat lamps. Use something like this oil filled heater. It has a thermostat and doesn't get hot enough to start a fire.
View attachment 709298

I don't think they have a real thermostat per se, which completely kills the heat when not needed. They do work great though, when hooked up to one of these; TPI KT121 Industrial Series SPST Heat Only Thermostat - 6' Cord/Plug

That is the setup I use to keep my small house from freezing when I'm not home to keep wood in the stove. Before buying the thermostat it was costing me about 125$/month in winter to keep the place warm through the day. Since I bought the thermostat, heat costs me around 7$/month.