Mowing Shear bolt

/ Shear bolt #1  

jacobsdaddy06

Bronze Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2009
Messages
86
Location
NW Arkansas
Tractor
MF1240
Bought a used big bee agri five, hog does anybody know what grade bolt this thing uses, I've tried 2 and it shears on grass, or when I first engage pro (at low rpm) Thanks
 
/ Shear bolt #2  
Generally shear bolts are grade 2, you want them to be the weakest link so they help protect the PTO gears and driveline parts. I don't know that I would advise going to a stronger bolt. Maybe you should try getting a slipclutch and see how that works for you? They cost about a $100 or so.
 
/ Shear bolt #3  
Bought a used big bee agri five, hog does anybody know what grade bolt this thing uses, I've tried 2 and it shears on grass, or when I first engage pro (at low rpm) Thanks

They are usually grade 2 bolts. Have you got the correct diameter of bolt?
 
/ Shear bolt
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Yea I have I thought about a slip clutch, yes they are the same size as the one I sheared after I bought it. Grade 2 is what I bought for it, good thing I bought a bag full..
 
/ Shear bolt #5  
Yea I have I thought about a slip clutch, yes they are the same size as the one I sheared after I bought it. Grade 2 is what I bought for it, good thing I bought a bag full..
Does the collar fit the shaft well? If so, and youre shearing as easily as you say, its likely that the shear is made for Gr5. Grade 5 shears at a higher level, but shears more cleanly tha Gr2 which is kinda gummy by camparison. Never go above Gr5 because Gr8 will damage shaft and collar.
larry
 
/ Shear bolt #6  
A slip clutch is the way to go. Swapping out shear bolts is a pia.
How about a grade 5 in a smaller diameter?
 
/ Shear bolt #7  
You should ask big bee agri five about the correct shear bolt size.

I bought a Salsco chipper, made in CT, and replaced with an Imperial dia shear bolt. I felt a little play and several sheared in low-load conditions.

After calling Salsco, they advised me that the shear bolt should be metric - i.e. made in US for both American and other export markets; other markets don't have imperial bolt sizes readily available.

Works fine since.
 
/ Shear bolt #8  
If you have - or can find a copy of - the manual, it should specify. My Deere brush hog uses a grade 5 - which I bought used and had to get help from fellow TBNers and other internet searching to figure it out. The dealer tried to tell me grade 8(!). Glad I didn't listen. So you can ask the dealer, but also use common sense, they may be well intentioned but off the mark...
 
/ Shear bolt #9  
Land Pride shear bolts are grade 3 and they recommend using grade 5 if it shears too often. They caution against grade 8. I have a clutch on my RT and am about ready to junk it and replace w/ a shear pin. I have to disassemble the clutch twice a year, clean it up, and reinstall. Takes an hour of cussing to get it done. A little rust on the plates (it rains a lot here) and they do not slip anymore. I have a lot of big rocks in the garden spot. Hopefully I am getting them all dug out. I carry a 3' crowbar to work them out. My LP hog has a shear bolt and never sheared last year.

Ron
 
/ Shear bolt #11  
Land Pride shear bolts are grade 3 and they recommend using grade 5 if it shears too often. They caution against grade 8. I have a clutch on my RT and am about ready to junk it and replace w/ a shear pin. I have to disassemble the clutch twice a year, clean it up, and reinstall. Takes an hour of cussing to get it done. A little rust on the plates (it rains a lot here) and they do not slip anymore. I have a lot of big rocks in the garden spot. Hopefully I am getting them all dug out. I carry a 3' crowbar to work them out. My LP hog has a shear bolt and never sheared last year.

Ron

Howdy neighbor. You're doing it wrong, just loosen the bolts and mow until the thing slips on its own. Then retighten them until it only slips when needed. I usually have to go through this once every spring and I store my cutter outside.

I'll be mowing out in Home this weekend.
 
/ Shear bolt #12  
Howdy neighbor. You're doing it wrong, just loosen the bolts and mow until the thing slips on its own. Then retighten them until it only slips when needed. I usually have to go through this once every spring and I store my cutter outside.

I'll be mowing out in Home this weekend.

HB, I started out doing that and found that trying to adjust all the bolts evenly while on the shaft and around all that shielding was a PITA also. With it on the bench it is easy with my digital caliper. Caliper won't get into the space wuth clutch on the shaft. I am going to try drilling a small hole at the proper setting on each bolt next time it is off and then try the adjusting on the machine like you do. We all learn as we go along from our mistakes and trials.

Where are you at on South Sound?

Ron
 

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