Rotary Cutter Shear pin?

[TVZ]

I seem to have sheared a pin that holds the PTO shaft onto the gear box shaft on my old KingKutter rotary cutter (L-48-40-P-Y). It is about ｽ" diameter. The part that is left is 1 ｼ"" long (the diameter of the shaft coming out of the gear box). Apparently the ends sheared off and are gone. Questions:

--Is that a "shear pin"? Is that what I would ask for?

--Is that a standard generic item that I could get somewhere locally or through Amazon or something? Or do I need to get it from KingKutter?

--Can I put a bolt in there for now and keep working?

Thanks...

 

[art]

not knowing where it came from you could have one or maybe not! lol Considering we think it is they often use grade five bolts.

 

[Dave M7040]

You cannot be talking about a shear bolt as 1-1/2" diameter sounds more like the gear box shaft.

Best you provide a photo

Dave M7040

 

[bullbreaker]

TVZ see if thats what your talking about ? King Kutter Grade 2 Shear Bolts 51

They are number 2 . Rural King /TSC / etc replace with correct bolt if thats what you need . ???

Respond back too us either way .....

 

[WranglerX]

Most implements start out in life with a 1/4 inch diameter grade 2 bolt for a shear bolt (pin) if not splined shaft... Over time and many failures they seem to grow to grade 5 or grade 8 and increase in diameter to 3/8 inch or larger....

Dale

 

[BRMyers]

Dad and I went to two stores (won't name them, but are tractor supply stores) and neither knew what a shear pin was. Finally realized that we just needed to ask for the grade of bolt that we needed.

 

[TVZ]

Yes, Bullbreaker, that looks like what I need. I am out in the sticks and will have to order them. Is it ok to use a normal 1/2" bolt for the meanwhile?

 

[bullbreaker]

I wouldnt the damage could be WORSE ! Amazon should have that also if you got prime you can get it quick !

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I had a cutter that liked to shear bolts, geeeeeze I learned to hate that thing!

I got sick of dealing with wrenching nuts on the bolts I put in, so I extra bought bolts, put them on a anvil and hammered flats on both sides of the bolts, it only takes a few blows. Then to replace them, you just drive them in as they go in tight! NO nut needed...

When that cutter got replaced, that's when I switched to Woods rotary cutters and drive line slip clutches!

PROBLEM SOLVED!!

SR

 

[TVZ]

Are shear bolts (#2 bolts) softer than regular bolts?

 

[the old grind]

Depends on what you mean by 'regular'.

The plainest unmarked-head cheap grade 2, not grade 5 with the '3-spoke' head marking, unless you're hard on 'em & want to push the limit of 'ok'. (its done a lot within reason)

They're sized/intended to give way comfortably shy of breaking something else between PTO and turf. I have 'em & break 'em on & only when using the slasher, usually if too high rpm, too low to ground, too quickly releasing the clutch, or a combination of them .. clumsy operating. ("Hello it's me, .." )

But grade 2s are cheap by the pound at TSC. I use jam nuts when I install vs tighten against a hub.

 

[MHarryE]

Hate to steer you wrong but most use grade 5 or 8 for shear bolts. Grade 2 are very ductile material and tend to smear when they break. Grade 5s and harder fracture clean and are easy to remove. They also tend to specify shear bolts of a size so the solid portion is in the shear area meaning no threads at the shear point. Gives a more consistent value at fracture.

 

[WranglerX]

Most most common bolts in use are grade 2, grade 5 and grade 8... Other grades exist but usually for "special" applications...

SAE Grade 2 - 74,000 psi, low carbon steel (no spokes on head)...
SAE Grade 5 - 120,000 psi, medium carbon heat treated steel (3 spokes on head)..
SAE Grade 8 - 150,000 psi, medium carbon alloy steel (6 spokes on head) ...

Dale

 

[NoTrespassing]

I actually bought a package of King Cutter shear bolts/lock washers/nuts. They're grade 2. Probably cost a dollar or two extra but it was easier than buying individual parts and they were packaged nicely.

Kevin

 

[PILOON]

Hate to steer you wrong but most use grade 5 or 8 for shear bolts. Grade 2 are very ductile material and tend to smear when they break. Grade 5s and harder fracture clean and are easy to remove. They also tend to specify shear bolts of a size so the solid portion is in the shear area meaning no threads at the shear point. Gives a more consistent value at fracture.

I agree with this as well.
Soft will elongate and damage the holes while grade 5 will shear nice and clean.
IMHO 5 is nice and should still protect the equipment all while shearing clean.

It was mentioned that often the holes grow bigger over time and that was probably due to damaged aligning holes from soft bolts.

My experience is mainly from snow blowers. (and most use grade 5)